Since the Middle Ages, Paris has been a ‘Cockaigne’ – a land of plenty, a cornucopia, a warehouse stocked with the best produce from the French provinces and beyond. In 2024, with the Olympics on the horizon, this still holds true, and Paris is limbering up for its own gourmet games. All disciplines and categories are represented, from Japanese chefs to young, home-grown MICHELIN-Starred talent, from revered restaurants to bistros in all their contemporary incarnations. Let the games begin!
Reopening of Legendary Restaurants
The year 2023 saw the reopening of two legendary restaurants that played a part in shaping the history of Parisian gastronomy. First up, La Tour d'Argent is the oldest restaurant in Paris: as far back as 1582, an inn was already established on Quai de la Tournelle, on the banks of the River Seine. Now, rejuvenated by recent renovations, the restaurant looks set for centuries to come. (See our article : The Reopening of One MICHELIN Star Tour d’Argent).On 15 June 1898, in collaboration with Escoffier, César Ritz opened the Parisian palace hotel that bears his name to this day. On Place Vendôme, it was notably frequented by Proust, who was a fan of its ice cream. Later, the restaurant was renamed Espadon, in homage to Ernest Hemingway. Fast forward to the present day and Chef Eugénie Béziat presides in the kitchens, skilfully blending reminiscences of her childhood in Africa with Mediterranean influences gleaned over the course of her culinary career. The resulting cuisine is both surprising and satisfying.
Le Prince de Galles (19.20 by Norbert Tarayre), a legendary gem of Parisian Art Deco design built in 1928, has chosen to democratise palace hotel cuisine by entrusting its kitchens to Norbert Tarayre, the firebrand chef discovered on French TV's Top Chef in 2012.
Paris, Japanophile Capital
Who says love stories have to end badly? The love affair between Japanese chefs and Paris is still going strong. In 2024 Shinichi Sato (Blanc, new star restaurant), who put in a strong performance at Passage 53, is back with a vengeance. The forty-something chef from the island of Hokkaido, who also worked at Mugaritz in the Spanish Basque Country, has taken up the baton from Hiramatsu. In a pared-back, ultra-designer setting, he presents fine cuisine that combines top-notch European ingredients with the rigorous technical approach of his homeland.At Baillote, Chef Satoshi Amitsu may be Japanese, but the cooking is very much French and modern. Georges Blanc's former second-in-command cooks up colourful, well-executed dishes with an abundance of contrasts, and the contemporary bistro style of the food is reflected in the atmosphere. The ‘cuissons’, jus and seasonings are particularly precise and accomplished.
At Akabeko, it’s all about a subtle, French-Japanese omakase menu created by Yasuo Nanaumi. The experienced Japanese chef opened the restaurant with his son, who takes care of proceedings front of house. In this gorgeous little place, diners can shift seamlessly between the two cultures, as they tuck into dishes such as foie gras with teriyaki sauce or deep-fried sole goujonnettes with dashi.
Yuichiro Akiyoshi (Chakaiseki Akiyoshi, new star restaurant) serves up so much more than a meal. Expect a poetic interlude centred on the tea ceremony (lasting three hours) with subdued lighting and contemplative stillness; here, you forget the noise and furious pace of the city outside. Originally from Fukuoka, the chef spent 10 years in a Three Star restaurant in Kyoto, learning cha-kaiseki, the traditional Japanese culinary art based on the idea that food should complement tea. A unique restaurant in Paris.
Finally, in Chef Tomoyuki Yoshinaga's Sushi Yoshinaga (new star restaurant), Paris has one of the finest restaurants dedicated to the art of sushi. The produce used smacks of exceptional quality: ikejime fish from Brittany, in particular, plus caviar, sea urchin, abalone, wild eel and matured bluefin tuna of a quality that one rarely has the opportunity to taste. The art of cutting fish, the exceptional skill of the chef, the different temperatures of the rice, the various soy sauces used to complement the fish... it has all the elements of an exceptional dining experience.
Paris's New MICHELIN-Starred Talents
Beyond the excellent Japanese restaurants mentioned above, the Star-studded Parisian selection of 2024 is striking in its variety. Chef Manon Fleury (Datil, new star restaurant) is winning over diners with her cooking that shows a commitment to all aspects of sustainable fine dining. On the plate, this translates into a primarily plant-based menu, in which fruit, vegetables and grains (her specialist subject) coexist with finesse.At Hémicycle (new star restaurant), whose name is a nod to the nearby Assemblée Nationale and its semi-circular debating chamber, the duo – and real-life couple – of Flavio Lucarini (savoury) and Aurora Storari (desserts) achieve harmony with their creative ‘cuisine d'auteur’. The pastry chef is also responsible for one of the inspectors' favourite desserts this year.
Maison Dubois (new star restaurant) may be Arthur Dubois's first restaurant but the fact remains that his dishes are nothing if not impressive. Carefully selected ingredients, proven expertise, impeccable technique – the chef shows he is a dab hand at putting a new spin on classic cuisine, in which the influence of his mentor, Pierre Gagnaire, makes its presence felt.
The man behind Onor (pronounced ‘honour’, with good reason) is Thierry Marx, an up-and-coming chef who seems destined to make a name for himself. In a nautical-inspired setting (incorporating a wealth of recycled materials) reminiscent of a bijou luxury brasserie, the chef dances to his own tune, supported by his right-hand man Ricardo Silva. The menu switches between nods to Asia and the chef's classics, showcasing this judo enthusiast's many talents.
On the rooftop of the Hôtel Cheval-Blanc, a surprise awaited our Inspectors: the luxury brasserie Le Tout-Paris, whose all-encompassing view is enough to whet the appetite. Leading chefs Arnaud Donckele and Maxime Frédéric oversee the kitchen, where top-quality produce is prepared either simply (langoustine and pike quenelles accompanied by velvety pike heads with rosemary), or more elaborately (black pudding à la royale with gnocchi, juniper berries and savory).
Géosmine (new star restaurant) is named for the smell that rises from freshly ploughed or wet soil, hinting at the ‘natural’ cuisine that Chef Maxime Bouttier's restaurant has in store for diners. Originally from the Sarthe ‘département’ in northwestern France, where he used to hurry after school to watch the cows being milked, he serves cow udders at his trendy restaurant in the 11th arrondissement. This offal is cooked in a seaweed broth before being pan-fried in butter, lightly grilled on the barbecue, placed on a tartare of seaweed, and topped with a little caviar and finished with two sauces. A creative dish, emblematic of a chef with a strong personality.
Bistro Plus Gastronomy Equals Bistronomy
The MICHELIN Guide's 2024 selection of Parisian bistros is proof, if proof were needed, of the vitality of the genre. Whatever name is used to refer to these vibrant, lively eateries, the fact remains that they have a number of things in common: chefs trained in the best establishments in France and abroad; a focus on flavour and fresh produce, often sourced via short supply chains; a freedom from culinary rules and traditions, which are instead revisited or gently shaken up: and classics often sitting alongside vegetarian dishes. With that in mind, you'll want to head over to Rosemarie, Aux 2K, Les Parisiens, Des Terres, Colvert, Source, Ambos, L'Escudella, À Table, Chenapan, Le 6 and Oktobre for a start. More adventurous Parisians might want to stray as far as Rosette (Clichy), Mano and Baca'v Boulogne (Boulogne-Billancourt), or even Isolé (Montreuil).Diners are bound to find something to suit their taste among Paris’s fabulous array of restaurants.
Discover the 2024 Paris Selection:
10 Restaurants with Three MICHELIN Stars
Paris 1er : KeiParis 1er : Plénitude - Cheval Blanc Paris
Paris 4e : L'Ambroisie
Paris 7e : Arpège
Paris 8e : Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen
Paris 8e : Le Cinq
Paris 8e : Épicure
Paris 8e : Pierre Gagnaire
Paris 8e : Le Gabriel - La Réserve Paris - NEW
Paris 16e : Le Pré Catelan
16 Restaurants with Two MICHELIN Stars
Paris 1er : Restaurant Le Meurice Alain Ducasse
Paris 1er : Palais Royal Restaurant
Paris 6e : Guy Savoy
Paris 6e : Marsan par Hélène Darroze
Paris 7e : David Toutain
Paris 7e : Le Jules Verne - NEW
Paris 8e : L'Abysse au Pavillon Ledoyen
Paris 8e : Le Clarence
Paris 8e : Le Grand Restaurant - Jean-François Piège
Paris 8e : Maison Ruggieri - NEW
Paris 8e : L'Orangerie - NEW
Paris 8e : La Scène
Paris 8e : Le Taillevent
Paris 12e : Table - Bruno Verjus
Paris 16e : L'Oiseau Blanc
Paris 17e : Maison Rostang
111 Restaurants with One MICHELIN Star (including Ile-de-France)
Paris 1er : Le Baudelaire
Paris 1er : La Dame de Pic
Paris 1er : Espadon - NEW
Paris 1er : Granite
Paris 1er : Nhome - NEW
Paris 1er : Omar Dhiab
Paris 1er : Le Tout-Paris - NEW
Paris 1er : Yam'Tcha
Paris 2e : Accents Table Bourse
Paris 2e : Fleur de Pavé
Paris 2e : Frenchie
Paris 2e : Pantagruel
Paris 2e : Pur' - Jean-François Rouquette
Paris 2e : Shabour
Paris 2e : Sushi B
Paris 2e : Sushi Yoshinaga - NEW
Paris 3e : Anne
Paris 3e : Datil - NEW
Paris 4e : Benoit
Paris 4e : Le Sergent Recruteur
Paris 4e : Restaurant H
Paris 5e : Alliance
Paris 5e : AT
Paris 5e : Baieta
Paris 5e : Mavrommatis
Paris 5e : OKA
Paris 5e : Sola
Paris 5e : Solstice
Paris 5e : Tour d'Argent
Paris 6e : Armani Ristorante
Paris 6e : Quinsou
Paris 6e : Relais Louis XIII
Paris 6e : Yoshinori
Paris 6e : Ze Kitchen Galerie
Paris 7e : Aida
Paris 7e : Auguste
Paris 7e : Divellec
Paris 7e : ES
Paris 7e : Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire
Paris 7e : Hémicycle - NEW
Paris 7e : Le Violon d'Ingres
Paris 7e : Nakatani
Paris 7e : Pertinence
Paris 7e : Tomy & Co
Paris 8e : 114, Faubourg
Paris 8e : Akrame
Paris 8e : Apicius
Paris 8e : Contraste
Paris 8e : Helen
Paris 8e : Il Carpaccio
Paris 8e : Jean Imbert au Plaza Athénée
Paris 8e : L'Arôme
Paris 8e : Lasserre
Paris 8e : L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Étoile
Paris 8e : Le Chiberta
Paris 8e : Galanga - NEW
Paris 8e : Le George
Paris 8e : L'Écrin
Paris 8e : Lucas Carton
Paris 8e : Maison Dubois - NEW
Paris 8e : Onor - NEW
Paris 8e : Pavyllon
Paris 8e : Trente-Trois
Paris 9e : Louis
Paris 9e : NESO
Paris 11e : Automne
Paris 11e : FIEF
Paris 11e : Géosmine - NEW
Paris 11e : Qui Plume la Lune
Paris 11e : Septime
Paris 12e : Virtus
Paris 14e : MoSuke
Paris 15e : Chakaiseiki Akiyoshi - NEW
Paris 15e : Neige d'Été
Paris 16e : Alan Geaam
Paris 16e : Astrance
Paris 16e : Bellefeuille - Saint James Paris
Paris 16e : Blanc - NEW
Paris 16e : Comice
Paris 16e : Don Juan II
Paris 16e : La Grande Cascade
Paris 16e : L'Archeste
Paris 16e : Nomicos
Paris 16e : Ōrtensia
Paris 16e : Pages
Paris 16e : Shang Palace
Paris 16e : Substance
Paris 17e : Anona
Paris 17e : Frédéric Simonin
Paris 17e : Jacques Faussat
Paris 17e : La Scène Thélème
Paris 17e : Le Faham by Kelly Rangama
Paris 17e : Mallory Gabsi
Paris 17e : Oxte
Paris 18e : L'Arcane
Couilly-Pont-aux-Dames (77) : Auberge de la Brie
Dampmart (77) : Le Quincangrogne
Fontainebleau (77) : L'Axel
Villeneuve-le-Comte (77) : La Vieille Auberge - NEW
Le Tremblay-sur-Mauldre (78) : Numéro 3
Marly-Le-Roi (78) : Le Village Tomohiro
Rolleboise (78) : Le Panoramique - Domaine de la Corniche
Versailles (78) : Gordon Ramsay au Trianon
Versailles (78) : La Table du 11
Versailles (78) : Le Grand Contrôle
Meudon (92) : L'Escarbille
Rueil-Malmaison (92) : Ochre
Ville-d'Avray (92) : Le Corot
Montreuil (93) : Villa9Trois
Vincennes (94) : L'Ours
Pontoise (95) : L'Or Q'Idée
Hero Image: @Matthieu Salvaing/Tour d'Argent
