The emblematic stronghold of grande cuisine inside the famous Hôtel de Crillon has made way for L'Écrin, an exclusive, almost secretive and timeless dining room, in which every tiny decorative detail has been pored over. The cuisine of Boris Campanella (formerly at Cheval Blanc in Courchevel) still aims at clarity, seasonality and flavour, and it is now the wine that sets the tone, with a made-to-measure menu of three, five or eight courses accompanied by perfect wine pairings suggested by head sommelier Xavier Thuizat. Open-mindedness, agility in the creation of dishes: the art of respecting heritage, without concern for reverence but with a proven technique and a promising ambition.