Matthias Marc – a chef who has honed his skills in a series of prestigious establishments (Le Saint-James in Bouliac, Le Meurice and Lasserre in Paris), and was a semi-finalist in French TV's Top Chef 2021 – serves a set menu that favours short supply chains and sticks close to the seasons, incorporating pleasing nods to his native Jura. Green asparagus, smoked duck, wild garlic and lemon balm, or arctic char, fresh peas, passion fruit and pepper serve to illustrate his creative and plant-dominated signature style. Desserts are in modern vein, low in sugar, like this strawberry / rhubarb / pine creation with its fine ribbon of meringue. A terrific list of wines, mostly organic or natural. Uninhibited, spontaneous cooking: an excellent place.