Beyoncé might be onto something about who runs the world. It's worth noting that the increasing presence of female chefs in Thailand's F&B industry has become incredibly significant, as highlighted by the MICHELIN Inspectors in 2023. They wrote: "It is inspiring to see more female chefs excelling not only in their culinary roles but also as entrepreneurs shaping and developing the culinary landscape nationwide."
Women in Thailand are rewriting history, stepping into once male-dominated realms like the kitchen and not just participating but dominating and mastering it. Who runs the world? Clearly, the female chefs.
According to the Credit Suisse Research Institute (CSRI) in its third CS Gender 3000 report in 2019, Thailand ranks second globally for women in senior management. It boasts the highest percentage of female chief financial officers and the third-highest rate of female chief executives. So, it shouldn’t come as a surprise in Asia that Thailand also leads with the highest number of female chefs heading teams that have won MICHELIN Stars.
On this International Women’s Day, we invite everyone to get to know these resilient and talented women, their life stories filled with challenges they have overcome, and the voices they wish to share with the world.
Garima Arora
Gaa, Two MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024To suggest that Garima Arora of Gaa restaurant is the most successful female Indian chef in the world today might not be far off. Not only did she become the first Indian woman ever to receive a MICHELIN Star in 2018, but she also won the MICHELIN Guide Young Chef Award Presented by Blancpain in 2023. Most recently, she made history once again as the first female Indian chef to lead a team to achieve two MICHELIN Stars. Over the years, Arora has been involved in Food Forward India, a project aimed at preserving India's culinary history and shaping its future. She is also a judge on India's MasterChef show. And she accomplished all of this while being a new mother.
Her message: “When people say women can have it all, it’s a false statement. You always give up one part of your life to be physically present in another. When I’m at work, I feel that I’m sacrificing my role as a mother. When I’m with my son, I think about everything that needs to be done at Gaa. There are so many things that run through your mind when you’re not in your restaurant. “I have so much respect for mothers who work in restaurants. You have to sacrifice either time with your child or your job. You put in the same hard work as men do, but sometimes you have to say no to things because your child needs you. It’s such an unfair ask. And that’s the reality of life.”
Chef Pichaya 'Pam' Soontornyanakij
Potong, One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024Chef Soontornyanakij rose to fame by competing in Asia's Youth Hope Cooking Competition in 2011, where she also won the runner-up prize at The Escoffier World Cup, representing Asia alone. She then pursued her culinary dream in the United States and worked at Jean George before returning to Thailand. In 2023 when she opened Potong, a Thai-Chinese fine-dining restaurant in a historic building, the establishment earned a MICHELIN Star and the first Opening of the Year Award Presented by UOB for its immediate success. This talented chef also established the Scholarship for Female Chefs (WFW) with AWC Thailand to fulfill the dreams of young girls who aspire to learn culinary arts but lack opportunities and financial resources.
Her message: "I believe that opportunities are crucial for a starting point. I have fought and overcome various obstacles, realising the importance of having just an 'opportunity.' I trust that women have the same abilities as men but often lack the chance to pursue their dreams. I want to be a representative who offers this opportunity to women without financial resources and to be a driving force for everyone fighting for this opportunity. Women have the potential to succeed, regardless of the profession, as long as they have the chance."
Chef Chudaree ‘Tam’ Debhakam
Baan Tepa, Two MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024Debhakam’s passion for cooking was so obvious at an early age that she knew she would excel at a culinary school rather than a traditional college. She then trained at renowned establishments in North America like Jean-Georges (two MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide New York 2023) and Blue Hill At Stone Barns (two MICHELIN Stars and MICHELIN Green Star, MICHELIN Guide New York 2023). Upon returning to Thailand, Debhakam made headlines by winning the first season of Top Chef Thailand at the age of 27. After opening her restaurant, Baan Tepa, at her family home, she achieved her first MICHELIN Star in the MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2023 edition. A year later, she won the MICHELIN Young Chef Award Presented by Blanclain, and, within minutes, she made history by leading Baan Tepa to become the first Thai female-led establishment to earn two MICHELIN Stars.
Her message: “The chef’s life isn’t for everyone. You have to be sure this is what you want to do. I ditched my university path to work in a kitchen because I needed to be sure I wanted to be a chef. I believe [every aspiring chef] needs to be in the kitchen, too. Go and get beat up. You have to be able to feel the pressure of a professional kitchen, withstand it, get over it fast, and grow from it. I know it’s hard, especially in Thai culture, for people not to take things personally or internalise criticism. But you need to remember that restaurants have common goals and meeting them requires teamwork, too.”
Pim Techamuanvivit
Nahm, One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024Kin Khao, One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide California 2023
Nari, One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide California 2023
Chef Techamuanvivit began her career in Silicon Valley but eventually pondered the age-old question, "What do I want to do when I grow up?" She started food blogging in the early aughts and quickly gained recognition. Due to her passion for Thai cuisine, she opened Kin Khao in 2014 and won its first MICHELIN Star. But that year was a difficult one for her personally as she found out that she had breast cancer. After her third surgery, she went to the award party in a wheelchair, thinking she wasn't going to miss it for the world. She collected the star, celebrated — laughed, cried, and drank a lot of champagne — and then went back to work with her team.
In 2018, she took over Nahm, a renowned one MICHELIN Star Thai restaurant by Chef David Thompson in Bangkok, travelling back and forth between continents, and has maintained the MICHELIN Star status. In 2023, her other Thai restaurant, Nari in San Francisco, also earned yet another MICHELIN Star. Thanks to her commitment to quality and appreciation for the "Thai culinary heritage." Her three Thai restaurants under her care have excelled to success.
Her message: “Sustainability means a great deal and there are many sides to it. One is environmental sustainability. I was talking to locals about farmers’ use of pesticides - how pesticides in the rice fields would collect in the water, then the little field crabs would eat all of the chemicals and the farmers would eat those crabs. Then, there are a lot of health issues, especially with pregnant women and babies. It’s important that we support people who are growing things organically for the next generation"
Supinya Junsuta
Jay Fai, One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024Iconic Thailand's street food queen, renowned for her delicious crab omelette and dedication to cooking, persists as she stands before her steaming stove, still wearing her cooking goggles. With only a fourth-grade education and a former factory worker, she defied the odds by opening a restaurant. Her exceptional culinary skills earned her the distinction of being the only street food establishment to receive a MICHELIN Star since the launch of the MICHELIN Guide Thailand in 2018. This recognition catapulted her to fame overnight, leading to collaborations with renowned chefs, and international brands, and her appointment as a food tourism ambassador for Thailand. Approaching 79, she remains dedicated to her craft, ensuring each plate of food is cooked at its perfection.
Her message: “Trust no one but yourself. I’m getting on in years, so I think the future of our restaurant is in the next generation’s hands. They might get my treasure, and I do want to know about any changes. But this is their right and their future, and I believe they can handle it. This next generation is talented. I can see the future in them, and it is good. They will accomplish so much more because we will always need to be making food -- good food.”
Michelle Goh
Mia, One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024A Malaysian chef, Michelle Goh, discovered her passion for cooking as a teenager. She pursued her culinary dreams by leaving Malaysia to study at Le Cordon Bleu in Sydney, where she honed her skills. After completing her studies, Chef Goh gained experience by creating pastries in Sydney and Melbourne, showcasing her love for pastry design. She later moved to Singapore to work at Pollen's kitchens before settling in Bangkok. There, she worked with the twin chefs of Sühring, which earned two MICHELIN Stars. Currently, Goh leads Mia, a newly-minted MICHELIN Star restaurant in the 2024 edition alongside her husband.
Her message: "Don’t ever let anyone tell you that you can’t do something. If you want something, go out and get it. If you want to be heard, don’t be afraid to speak your mind. Be confident, be hard-working, and work towards being respected instead of liked.”
Banyen Ruangsantheia
Suan Thip, One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024At the age of 15, Ruangsantheia left her family's farm in impoverished Nakhon Ratchasima for Bangkok in the early 1970s. She took up a job as a housemaid for the Kittikachorn family. In 1973, when the family moved to Nonthaburi, a northern suburb of Bangkok, due to political conflict, they expanded their fabric flower business into a picturesque riverside restaurant named Suan Thip. It was here that Ruangsantheia "learned by tasting" the intricacies of traditional Thai cooking from the restaurant's first head chef. Three decades later, the cheerful, soft-spoken head chef produces elaborate dishes that result from time-consuming techniques honed over years of experience — a testament to the fact that with dedication and hard work, anything is possible.
Her message: “My childhood was very difficult. The journey to where I am today has not been strewn with roses. I only finished school up to grade 4, I can hardly write, and I don't have much knowledge at all. But I have a passion for food. I want customers to enjoy delicious food. Just having the know-how is not enough for a cook. You must truly love it."
Chef Pilaipon “Toy” Kamnag
Saneh Jaan, One MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024Although she's from Chiang Mai, Kamnag isn't limited to Northern Thai cuisine. Renowned for her refined palace-style Thai dishes, she blends humility with a genuine love for traditional Thai cuisine. At Saneh Jaan restaurant, her dishes offer an authentic Thai taste, often unfamiliar to many. She creatively incorporates French culinary techniques, creating Thai dishes that are charming and worth exploring, all while maintaining high standards. Chef Kamnag continues to welcome both local and international guests in Bangkok, offering authentic Thai cuisine to those seeking the true taste of Thailand.
Her message: "I was born into a simple family in the rural side, where girls were taught to love cooking as a life skill. This upbringing was the beginning of my journey to becoming a chef. I enjoy observing and paying attention to every detail in the cooking process, ensuring that those who taste my food appreciate the care and delicious taste. However, it hasn't been easy for women like me to navigate through the pressures and criticisms in a kitchen where men dominate. However, my love for cooking has helped me overcome these downsides and made me proud to be a chef at last."
Illustration image: © MICHELIN Guide Thailand, Mia
