Safe, clean, green, efficient, bustling, humid, metropolitan, multiethnic and buzzing with endless energy. Now, that doesn’t quite encompass all that is uniquely Singapore — but it’s a start.
There’s the glitzy side of the Lion City that everyone recognizes: the iconic skyline, the towering skyscrapers, the dazzling attractions.
But there’s also the heritage of the predominant ethnic groups and the expression of their history through heartfelt recipes and time-honored culinary traditions.
In Singapore, it’s just as easy to get a plate of street food as it is to stroll into a fine-dining restaurant and be served a grand degustation with all the trimmings. Both are equally authentic and delicious.
We’ll be presenting three culinary adventures across the island nation for three distinct experiences of Singapore. While each caters to a specific sensibility — think heritage, nightlife, or an escape to nature in an urban jungle — every one of these will tell an honest story of Singapore at its most vibrant and effervescent.
First-timers to Singapore will be well-served to keep this survival pack at the ready: a packet of tissues to reserve (or chope, as they say in local parlance) a seat at the hawker center; comfortable shoes for walking; and a power bank to keep phones topped off. Also some sunblock, a small umbrella and a handheld fan to keep the perpetual Singaporean tropical heat at bay.
Tanjong Pagar: history, heritage and honest eats
If Singapore’s Central Business District is its commercial center, then Tanjong Pagar is almost certainly its beating cultural heart, where historic buildings recall its past as a bustling dock and hub for rickshaw operations. Visitors who know how to navigate this maze of conservation shophouses will be duly rewarded with culinary experiences authentic to every era of the Lion City.
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The bustling Maxwell and Amoy Street food centers (located within walking distance of each other) offer a comprehensive education on hawker food. Highlights at Maxwell include Maxwell Fuzhou Oyster Cake’s deep-fried fritters stuffed with oysters and the inimitable Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice for a consummate take on Singapore’s national dish. There’s also Rojak‧Popiah & Cockle, which offers visitors a chance to tick two items off their list with its rojak (a local, tangy salad) and popiah (jicama-stuffed spring rolls).
For a fancier night out, there’s MICHELIN-Starred “crossroads” champion Nouri, Chilean fine diner Araya or vino-focused Ma Cuisine, as well as Two-MICHELIN-Starred Cloudstreet (featuring Rishi Naleendra’s progressive, eclectic cuisine). Zén — the Three-MICHELIN-Starred Asian outpost of celebrity Swedish chef Björn Frantzén — sits at the very top of this tentpole with a complete gastronomic experience spanning three storeys of a conservation shophouse.
STAY
The accommodation options in Tanjong Pagar are just as varied as the food. On the boutique side, there’s the Duxton Reserve, boasting just 49 rooms spread across five beautifully restored shophouses in the heart of Singapore’s Chinatown. Everything from the luxury amenities to the modern-chic décor reflects its place within Marriott’s Autograph Collection. Alternatively, the Mondrian Singapore Duxton is just a short skip away. Its grand Art Deco-inspired façade gives way to 302 thoughtfully appointed rooms, the plushest of which are styled with architectural echoes of the surrounding shophouses.
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Tanjong Pagar wears its evolving identity like a badge of honor, unabashedly pitting its charming old-world shophouses against a backdrop of sparkling skyscrapers. History buffs mustn’t miss the Chinatown Heritage Centre, though nature lovers might prefer to take a short stroll through Duxton Plain Park and admire the heritage trees on display.
Architecture fans, meanwhile, can explore the area’s heritage buildings, including the century-old Jinrikisha Station at the corner of Neil Road (now where MICHELIN-Starred Born is located), or Singapore’s oldest operating lift at the former St Andrew’s Mission Hospital. The lattermost has recently been transformed into a lifestyle hub by the name of Kada (referencing its location on Kadayanallur Street), providing a wellness escape within the city.
Retail therapy is also available at nearby lifestyle boutiques like the flagship outlets of homegrown artisanal shoe brand Palola and Birkenstock, eco-fashion label The Sui Store and artisanal jewelry store Eden + Elie. For a mid-afternoon boost, grab a brew at Nylon Coffee or kissaten-inspired Corner Corner before hitting the books at Littered with Books and The Bookstore by Books Beyond Borders, a social enterprise bookstore dedicated to supporting girls’ education initiatives in Nepal.
Quay Area: nightlife and urban fun
Every night, the warehouses lining the banks of the Singapore River transform into a buzzy open-air lifestyle destination packed with bars, restaurants and clubs. The vibe at Boat Quay, Robertson Quay and especially Clarke Quay is decidedly electric, especially towards the weekend.
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The culinary options in the quay area are just as cool, and often, more exciting. Take One-MICHELIN-Starred French contemporary restaurant JAG, which elevates the humble vegetable into an art form at its breezy, high-ceilinged space on the second floor of a restored warehouse. Or perhaps Willow, a champion of modern Asian cuisine inflected with French techniques led by Singaporean chef Nicolas Tam.
At Singapore’s eclectic river district, delicious Northeastern Thai eats from Un-Yang-Kor-Dai are just a stone’s throw away from consummate Catalonian flavors at Foc and refined Pugliese plates at Kim Yam Road’s Somma. Otherwise, follow the lead of the locals and enjoy a bowl of heartwarming pork rib soup from Song Fa Bak Kut Teh, just as Teochew settlers did almost 60 years ago.
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The Warehouse Hotel at Robertson Quay offers all of the charms of the historic banks of the Singapore River — the waterfront view and the cozy, loft-style rooms born out of an actual refurbished warehouse — without the frenzy of the wider quay area.
It’s quiet, it’s charming and it’s very comfortable, with an arsenal of modern amenities to round out the understated elegance of the 37 guestrooms — perfect for visitors seeking refuge from the clamor, only to dive back in once their batteries are recharged.
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It’s no secret that nightlife is a huge draw to Singapore’s river district. There are dozens of bars, clubs and watering holes to visit, each with its own unique combination of happy-hour deals and live performances to get hearts racing. Alternatively, start the night with a bang at The Slingshot Singapore (formerly known as the G-Max Reverse Bungy) or the GX-5 Reverse Swing, high-octane rides that launch and swing riders through the sky at speeds over 100 km/h.
Even in the day, there’s plenty of urban fun to be had at the quay area. After kickstarting the morning at specialty wabi-sabi-themed café DAWN, head to the nearby Fort Canning Park for scenic jogging and even better photo opportunities at its Instagram-famous tree tunnel. There’s also the former high school turned lifestyle collective New Bahru near Kim Yam Road, featuring a plethora of homegrown arts, sustainability and F&B brands. To soak up some history instead, the iconic Singapore River Cruise offers a charming mix of riverside views and an extensive breakdown of the Lion City’s maritime heritage. Learn more about the development of Singapore’s firefighting force at the Civil Defence Heritage Gallery (housed aptly in a former fire station) before rounding out the day with drinks and chill vinyl vibes at Swee Lee Clarke Quay.
Dempsey: an escape to nature
No place is perfect, but Dempsey Hill certainly comes closer than most. The hip lifestyle enclave can be found within the lush greenery and historic surrounds of a former British military barracks just minutes away from the heart of Orchard Road. Almost every dining room, boutique or designer clothing shop in the area has been fashioned from restored buildings, which means shades of colonial architecture and noticeably high ceilings.
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Turning into Dempsey after a short five-minute ride from the city’s hottest shopping district almost feels like a dream — especially once seated in some of the enclave’s most noteworthy restaurants. Candlenut remains the island’s only MICHELIN-Starred Peranakan fine diner, with both à la carte and tasting menus available for the chef’s elevated takes on treasured family recipes. There’s also Min Jiang at Dempsey, which dishes out Cantonese and Sichuanese flavors in a bucolic dining room decorated with shades of green, gold and yellow. That’s not to forget Burnt Ends, Australian chef-owner David Pynt’s temple to fire, smoke and barbecue.
If there is one thing missing on Dempsey Hill, it’s hawker food, but that’s a hunger easily sated at Margaret Drive Sin Kee Chicken Rice in the nearby Margaret Drive Hawker Centre. The heritage chicken rice joint has decades of history and a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand behind it, but really, the silky-smooth poached chicken — and the accompanying fragrant chicken oil rice — speaks for itself.
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Though there are no accommodation options within the verdant Dempsey Hill enclave, it’s conveniently located near the Orchard Road shopping belt.
The Tanglin area nearby serves as a nice middle ground between the sedate hill and the hubbub of the city — an offer enhanced by hotels like The Singapore Edition. The establishment is strikingly luxurious even by Singapore’s Orchard Road standards, with well-appointed suites and top-of-the-line amenities as standard. Its neighbor Artyzen Singapore eases back on the glamor just a little in favor of a little bohemian edge — think quirky, greenery-driven facades and décor for a splash of color amid the creature comforts. Further into the heart of the shopping district lies Shangri-La Hotel Singapore, a longstanding monolith in the local hospitality industry which continues to bring its A-game even after half a century on Orange Grove Road.
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One of the best things about Dempsey Hill is the sheer diversity of activities packed into a single, walkable area. There’s the acclaimed REDSEA Gallery and its international collection of contemporary art and artists, the Singapore chapter of designer clothing brand Dover Street Market and even Gallery26 Dempsey’s free exhibition of Formula One racing in Singapore. Meanwhile, the Museum of Ice Cream and the Mr. Bucket Chocolaterie Dempsey Factory offer hands-on workshops and curated tasting events designed around visitors learning more about their favorite sweets.
Just remember to grab a donut or three at the Burnt Ends Bakery before donning a sunhat and exploring the world-famous Singapore Botanic Gardens — the first and only tropical garden across the globe to be listed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List — or the Green Corridor, a continuous nature trail fashioned from a decommissioned railway line.
