Features 1 minute 07 April 2017

Behind The Bib: Peony Jade

Classical Cantonese cooking meets Western sensibilities at this Bib Gourmand awarded restaurant.

Peony Jade Restaurant
Where: Bukit Chermin Road, Keppel Club
Tel: 6276 9138
Opening hours: 11:00am-2:30pm;
6:00pm-10:30pm on weekdays;
10:30am-2:30pm;
6:00pm-11:00pm on weekends

When Peony Jade opened its first outlet in Clarke Quay back in 2004, it quickly gained a loyal following for serving up the rambunctious notes of Sichuan food alongside the delicate flavours of Cantonese dishes. The restaurant proved to be so successful that it opened a second outlet at Keppel Club, which received a Bib Gourmand award in the debut of Singapore’s Michelin Guide.

Its success today can be attributed largely to 34-year-old Executive Chef Ricky Liew who assumed his current role in 2011. Of Cantonese descent, Liew has always remained true to his roots spending years honing the art of Cantonese cooking. He has trained in the kitchens of three-Michelin-starred restaurant The Eight in Macau as well as some of Singapore’s top-notch Cantonese institutions like Lei Garden and Crystal Jade.

SEE ALSO: View all Cantonese restaurants in the 2016 Michelin Guide Singapore here
The interiors of Peony Jade. Image credit: Peony Jade.
The interiors of Peony Jade. Image credit: Peony Jade.
The Tenets of Tradition
The key tenets of classical Cantonese cuisine are its emphasis of fresh ingredients whipped into dishes with skillful techniques. The experienced chef is mindful to keep flavours light without being bland and to allow the ingredients’ freshness to shine despite having a battery of condiments at his disposal.

This approach may appear simple, but it’s a true test of a chef’s skill, says Liew. For instance, more than 30 spices and condiments are used to create the restaurant’s soy sauce chicken – all of which has to be used in exacting amounts.

In another Cantonese classic, the black char siew or roasted pork is a real test of the chef’s mastery of heat and time control. It has to be roasted until just as it chars, to acquire a smoky aroma without being burnt.

Infusing a Western Touch
Still, that doesn’t mean Liew stands steadfast only to tradition. In fact, it is from this perch of 20 years of experience in classical cooking that gives him insight and confidence to innovate new dishes and breathing fresh air into the local Cantonese food scene.

SEE ALSO: What is... wok hei
black conch soup.jpg
“I don’t believe in merely sticking to tradition,” says Liew. “At Peony Jade, we are always thinking of ways to innovate. Whether you are a fan of classical or creative Cantonese cuisine, you are sure to find something that surprises your palate here.”

His trials of blending western ingredients into classic Cantonese dishes yielded surprising results. One unique dish that Liew created is the black truffle red grouper which employs classic Chinese cooking techniques, but infuses the flavours of the entirely Western ingredient into a fish prized in Cantonese cuisine.

In another creation, he marinates Spanish iberico pork in western herbs before cooking the meat, allowing for the herbaceous flavours to stand as the highlight of the course.
Even classics like lou fo tong (old fire soup) – a clear broth made by simmering meat over long hours – are not spared. He created a black garlic conch soup, pairing the healthful ingredient with American conch and Japanese scallops. Boiled for long hours over a slow fire, the soup is inviting with umami flavour and subtle garlic notes, and is as nourishing to the body as it is comforting to the soul.

Recommended reading: View all Behind The Bib stories here

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