MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Inventive cooking, attention to detail and a striking décor set Junoon apart from its upscale Indian brethren. Step through those handsome ebony wood doors, and you’ll arrive inside this welcoming space adorned with treasures from the subcontinent. The large bar up front delivers sophistication and fun. By day, lunch is served in the airy (Patiala) room; service is top-notch at all times. Dinner guests are treated to the more theatrical room, walking through an ancient wooden arch and carved panels, seemingly afloat in a reflecting pool. This leads to an amber-tinted dining arena where tables are luxuriously spaced, and the vibe is exotic and transporting. The talented kitchen is particularly adept at bringing out contrasting flavors and textures in myriad dishes, including tandoori octopus. Sliced and plated with a black garlic- and squid ink-aïoli, it flaunts that essential, deep sense of umami. Ghost chili murgh tikka reaches epic heights of char and flavor when coupled with an excellent cashew nut purée and pickled cabbage to temper its heat, while sweet and tender pork ribs arrive under a glass cloche swirling with smoke and steeped in an enticingly spiced vindaloo.