MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
This Korean steakhouse is a high-minded tribute to owner Simon Kim’s home country, and its renowned love for great beef. Make your way past a long, dark hallway to arrive at this well-designed, slate-colored room with such elegant touches as brass accents and crystal glasses. However, those still in doubt of the restaurant's forte should head downstairs to the glass-enclosed aging room filled with hanging slabs of luscious meat. Begin with banchan that are categorically untraditional, but nonetheless divine. Then dive into crisp Korean “bacon,” which is even better than it sounds, served as little shards of jerky-like sweet and smoky pork belly topped with pickled jalapeño. A pedestrian-sounding kimchi stew is elevated with sophisticated anchovy consommé, potatoes and zucchini; and the marbling on their aged ribeye, cut into cubes for tabletop searing, looks like something Michelangelo may have sculpted. Match this with grilled mushrooms and galbi for a true feast. Come summertime, pair those sizzling steaks with cold noodles—bi-bim somyun—mingled with white radishes in a mild chili paste sauce. After hours, locals may carve a slot at their impressive bar for more cocktails and fun.