Korean-born Simon Kim opened Cote as a joyful celebration of his home country’s love for beef allied with his admiration for the great American steakhouse—and that’s what makes this place unique. Just head downstairs and admire the meats hanging in the aging room . If that doesn’t have a Pavlovian effect on you, nothing will.The space also breaks the norm in its looks; it's dark, moody and atmospheric. And while better suited to a group than a date, it is still a restaurant for which people dress up. There’s a comprehensive wine list too, which, if you look close enough, offers nuggets of value. (Downstairs is their ersatz speakeasy, Undercote.)First-timers should head for the “Butcher’s Feast” where you’ll get four different cuts of beef and a luscious egg soufflé that’s a meal in itself. This is accompanied by enough banchan and stews to cover your table and appetite. The USDA Prime meats are first presented raw for you to admire their marbling and color. Your server then rubs the smokeless grill with oil before expertly cooking them. The supporting cast of accompanying flavors—from the kimchi to the ssamjang—are all there to enhance their succulent and persuasive flavor even further.