Make your way past the front bar area and solid, nearly secret door to discover this quiet and elegant culinary haven. Despite a clandestine vibe and handful of seats, the dining room buzzes with eager diners and locals in-the-know. Low lighting creates a sultry aura and a brigade of courteous servers attends to the pristine 14-seat counter with ease and enthusiasm.
The space feels particularly intimate and private—and is perfect for a romantic tryst. Plush leather seats, a gleaming open kitchen and top-notch fittings hint at a classic and celebratory meal. The kaiseki follows a distinct format by starting with a seasonal small plate to precede soup, a grilled dish and fried preparation. Sushi, like fluke with yuzu kosho or aged squid with grated bottarga, is an added bonus on the menu, which mostly features ingredients that are procured locally and presented artfully.
Get started with sakizuke, perhaps featuring broccoli rabe and fried taro with seared Long Island unagi tossed in a sesame dressing. Then move on to an intensely flavorful owan, soup course, with Alaskan king crab and turnip; or yakimono of grilled duck breast deliciously balanced by frothy apple cream and sansho-soy sauce.