Chef Josiah Citrin's iconic dining room is back up and running—even thriving—as it continues to bring old-world charm to this on-trend neighborhood. His expertise lies in delivering a certain fine-dining experience that never goes out of style. It's a lovely change of pace for anyone looking to slow down and be pampered by the highly capable staff.
The room is hidden within Citrin and kept out of site by a door. Once inside, the space reveals itself as a luxurious box with pale beige brick, dark wood, and bright artwork. A gentle hum fills the room, ensuring that the ambience is more celebratory than stuffy. Comfort is at the heart of the setting.
The open kitchen, with a duck press front and center, oozes with warmth and turns out a contemporary tasting rooted in French tradition. Begin with fried uni cromesquis with kombu honey and black truffle or king crab with yogurt served en chaudfroid. A sense of whimsy and decadence abound in the likes of a French onion dip-inspired custard with crème fraîche and caviar; as well as steamed black bass atop delicate cubes of eggplant with green tomato in a beurre noisette. A pitch-perfect peach tart rounds things off on a brilliantly high note.