Chef Jeremy Fox’s seasonal kitchen and wine bar already has the feeling of a timeless institution. The dining room and lounge are toasty and relaxed with a neighborhood vibe, thanks to the boisterous local clientele. A large picture window overlooking the street brightens the dark wood tables and cushioned banquettes.

The market-inspired menu is proudly crammed with the names of local farmers, reminding guests of the humble ingredients at the base of each sophisticated composition. The kitchen's versatility and range in talent is clear from the first bite of green beans tossed in shallot vinaigrette with a delectable heap of shaved cheese. Heavily embellished or more ambitious dishes are just as pleasing, and may include the unexpected combination of earthy-sweet beets, grains, and berries all held together in perfect harmony. The aromatic pozole verde is wonderfully tangy, loaded with Hope Ranch mussels, hominy, and fried tortilla strips. Much of this elevated farm-to-table carte is designed for sharing.

Breads and desserts are a formidable treat here, so be sure to try the bread au chocolat made with chunks of caramelized brioche, or ice cream in flavors like pea, mint and macadamia.