MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

Chef Jeremy Fox’s seasonal kitchen and wine bar already has the feeling of a timeless institution. The dining room and lounge are toasty and relaxed with an unpretentious neighborhood vibe, thanks to the boisterous local crowd. A large picture window overlooking the street brightens the dark wood tables and cushioned banquettes. The market-inspired menu is proudly crammed with the names of local farmers, reminding guests of the humble ingredients at the base of each sophisticated composition. The kitchen’s versatility and range of talent is clear from the first bite of green beans in shallot vinaigrette with a delectable heap of shaved cheese. Heavily embellished or more ambitious dishes are just as pleasing—especially the unexpected combination of earthy-sweet beets, grains and berries all held in perfect balance. The aromatic pozole verde is wonderfully tangy and refreshing, loaded with Hope Ranch mussels, hominy and fried tortilla strips. Much of this elevated farm-to-table menu is designed for sharing. Breads and desserts are a formidable treat here, so be sure to try the bread au chocolat made with chunks of caramelized brioche, or ice cream in flavors like pea, mint and macadamia.