Features 1 minute 28 October 2017

On The Michelin-Recommended List: Roland Restaurant

Chilli crab might be a national dish, but do you know where it all started?

There’s no denying chilli crab’s status as one of Singapore’s national dishes. In fact, look on the menus of many trendy restaurants these days and you’ll spot variations of the sweet-spicy dish slathered on pasta or sandwiched between buns.

But few know that Roland restaurant, tucked away in Marine Parade Central, is where it all started.
Stirring up inspiration

To be sure, the Singapore restaurant has a history that dates back to the 1950s. It started when founder Mdm Cher Yam Tian would cook Teochew-style steamed crabs for her husband, who one day requested for something a little different. Mdm Cher stir-fried the crabs in tomato sauce, and the couple then added some chilli to the mix to spice it up.

Soon, Mdm Cher was serving this dish to her family and friends, who convinced her to start selling it. Thus, Singapore’s very first version of chilli crabs was born, as Mdm Cher began selling those chilli crabs from a push-cart in Bedok.

From streets to restaurant

In the late 1960s, Mdm Cher and her husband opened Palm Beach Seafood, where they sold Mdm Cher’s five signature dishes — crispy baby quid, sweet sauce prawns, cockles with chilli, seafood hor fun, and of course, the chilli crab. Palm Beach was sold off in the 80s when the family moved to New Zealand.

It was 15 years later before the family returned to Singapore, and Mdm Cher’s son, Roland, set about restoring his mother’s well-loved food. The current Roland Restaurant on the sixth floor of Marine Parade Central Multi-Storey Carpark replaced Sin Leong Restaurant, where Roland was working with his godfather.

Today, the restaurant now boasts over 100 tables, and the chilli crab remains a signature item on the menu.
Mdm Cher's signature soy sauce prawns.
Mdm Cher's signature soy sauce prawns.
“The recipe has been maintained since the 1950s. We have to keep it the same because so many regulars come back for it — it’s about the quality of the sauce, and the ingredients must always be freshly made and cooked,” shares Mdm Cher’s other son, Richard, who runs the operations and supplies side of Roland restaurant.

Quality Control

One of the biggest challenges since opening Roland restaurant in 2000 is maintaining the quality of the food. “There are a lot of F&B outlets coming up – competitors are always around the corner. We need to continue to keep up standards to keep the regulars coming back,” says Richard.

Helming the kitchen now is the chef who worked with Mdm Cher since the 70s. “He is the one who came up with certain items like the stuffed you tiao, and he knows my mum’s recipes,” says Richard. The familarity also makes it easier for the two brothers to come up with new dishes, such as crispy duck and pomfret cooked two ways.
Until today, Mdm Cher still makes her way down to the restaurant to check on the food. “My mum still comes down to the restaurant to check on the quality and daily running of the business,” shares Richard with a laugh.

At the present, the brothers have no immediate plans for the future yet. “We’ll just keep the restaurant running smoothly, and see how it goes from there,” says Richard.

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