When chef Louis Han crafts the heritage-driven, contemporarily accented Korean cuisine that’s come to define his one-MICHELIN-Starred restaurant, NAE:UM, he’s almost always thinking of home.
The restaurant’s very name, after all, translates from Korean to “a fragrance that evokes memories”, exemplifying the chef’s desire to translate treasured memories from an upbringing in Seoul into heartfelt, honest cuisine.
Further than that, it also signifies a commitment to fine craftsmanship, the utmost respect for terroir and place, and an uncompromising, almost reverent adherence to tradition — all attitudes that lie at the very soul of Martell, one of the world’s oldest cognac houses with over three centuries of history.
“When I became of age, my father gifted me a bottle of cognac. It was my first sip of alcohol, and I grew to enjoy it as it is my father's favourite spirit.”
It’s a fitting parallel for the Korean chef, considering his history with the spirit. That first sip, among other food memories, drives Han’s cuisine to this day — those familiar with the chef’s work would know that he centres each turn of his restaurant around specific vignettes of life in Korea as he knew it.
Menus so far include episodes inspired by dreamy road trips to the coast off the Korean Peninsula, winter hikes along Seoul’s scenic Cheonggyesan ending with a meal at a mountain lodge, and Korea’s iconic pojangmacha (street cart) culture.
Meanwhile, the current and eighth episode is dubbed "Journey of Hwagyo" in a nod to Han’s happy memories celebrating his college graduation at a Korean-Chinese restaurant in Incheon.
These episodes do more than keep things varied for returning customers. They allow the chef the creative freedom to explore the facets of the country he loves, while cementing his core gastronomic philosophy with fresh examples of unfussy, delicious simplicity — the kind, he says, that would pair well with Martell’s hallmark cognacs in both flavour and spirit.
“Both NAE:UM and Martell are about honouring heritage and tradition, while striving for the best of qualities without compromises.”
“Just like with Martell's philosophy, my team and I at NAE:UM prepare the components of our dishes fresh every morning. What goes into our diners' plates are always of the freshest quality, although it may mean a tougher and longer preparation work for us,” he adds.
On how he dreams up the potential pairings he’s laid out below, Han says simply, “I savoured the cognacs slowly and thought about which foods may complement them best, while bringing out the intricacy of the cognacs.”
Here are some of chef Louis Han's recommended dishes to go with Martell’s signature pours.
Martell Cordon Bleu
Pairs well with: Bugak (deep-fried vegetables, usually lightly salted), Gangjeong (deep-fried rice puff, usually coated with honey)
"I find the Cordon Bleu to be energising, versatile, and easy to drink. It feels like a cognac that would go well with quick bites at the start of an evening."
"The Martell Cordon Bleu can coat a salty or sweet snack with some roundness; hence, I thought of Bugak or Gangjeong,” says Han.
Martell XO
Pairs well with: Galbi (Korean braised beef short ribs), Jjimdak (soy-stewed chicken with chewy sweet potato noodles)
“The XO is savoury, deep, and umami-filled; and as such, I chose dishes with similar depth. Both the Galbi and Jjimdak are sweet and savoury with a thick broth,” Han notes.
“My grandmother's Galbi comes to mind. It is a difficult dish to prepare, and she would save it for special occasions such as the Lunar New Year. She would prepare the short ribs in a large portion overnight, and we would have the dish for breakfast after honouring our ancestors, and then again for meals for the next few days. Her ribs actually get more delicious on the second day, after soaking in the marinade and with the meat getting more tender with time,” he adds.
Martell XXO
Pairs well with: Gungjung Tteokbokki (sweet-savoury rice cake cooked with soy instead of the usual gochujang), Hotteok (pan-fried chewy pancakes with brown sugar filling)
Says Han, “The XXO reminds me of grandness, of sitting by a fireplace in the middle of a cold winter. It is complex, warm, and has a delightful long finish."
"Because of its hints of cinnamon, I chose to pair it with sweet snacks or dessert. The gungjung (which means royal palace in Korean) tteokbokki is tteokbokki cooked with soy instead of red gochujang — sweet and savoury. Hotteok is pan-fried pancake with brown sugar filling, which I thought goes rather well with the cinnamon notes from the XXO.”
Chef Louis Han’s approach to both cuisine and cognac is an exercise in homage — one that bridges memory with craft, tradition with evolution. Just as Martell’s cognacs tell a story of heritage refined over centuries, Han’s dishes at NAE:UM capture the essence of his past, transformed into something both deeply personal and universally resonant. With every sip and every bite, he invites diners not just to taste, but to remember — to be transported, if only for a moment, to the warmth of a father’s first gift, a grandmother’s careful hands, or the quiet joy of a celebratory meal.
