For Chatchai Klanklong, cooking has been ingrained in his childhood as long as he can remember. He recalls watching - almost memorising – how his mother would season her cooking with Thai herbs and spices, adding a dash of fish sauce here, squeezing in some more lime juice there, until it tasted perfect.
While other kids were busy playing, food was all Chatchai could ever think about. From the paddyfields of Thailand to the fairytale villages of France’s Alsace region, who would’ve imagined that he’d one day be living in a fairytale of his own?
Fresh on the heels of receiving his first star, Chatchai talks to Michelin Guide Thailand about family life and how the love that blossomed between his mother, Khai and his French stepfather, Jean-Luc Rasser, ultimately led to this almost surreal reality.
What or who does the name ‘L’Orchidée’ pay tribute to?
It’s a flower that is found in abundance in Thailand and it’s our stepdad’s favourite flower, that’s why we named the restaurant after him as a tribute to him.
How has your time working at high profile restaurants in France and Switzerland contributed to your career as a chef?
The experience has taught me a lot, especially in terms of experiences. It has also helped me to mature greatly as a chef and equipped me with the tools I needed to be creative with the dishes I make.
How much of an influence does your mother, Khai, have on your cooking?
As a child I remember always seeing her in the kitchen rustling something up for us, so she directly influenced me. At L’Orchidée, she is the one responsible for introducing the inimitable flavours of Thai cuisine to the dishes served at our restaurant. For example, she makes curry paste herself from scratch. For us, that lies at the very heart of our cooking. She also loves to make Thai meals for our staff who are like family to us.
You and your brother, Kriangkrai, both run L’Orchidée. How to you share your responsibilities?
My brother is responsible for accounting and service but, if needed, he can also help out in the kitchen. I am the Chef de Cuisine.
What brought you to Alsace from Thailand?
We come from Petchabun in the upper part of Central Thailand. My grandparents owned rice farms and my mother was selling street food to make ends meet. When my mother met and fell in love with our stepfather, she eventually moved us all to France. We never imagined that one day, we would be running a fine dining restaurant in Alsace with a Michelin star! We are so proud of what we’ve achieved together as a family because we are the only restaurant with some Thai influence to have earned this accolade.
What is the philosophy behind your cooking?
I always insist on working with fresh, local products. I don’t really have a philosophy that I go by other than being passionate about what you do. I’m truly very passionate about cooking. I’m always thinking about food, it’s crazy!
How has living in both Thailand and France contributed to your experience in terms of cooking modern Thai cuisine?
I enjoy both cultures. I was born in Thailand but I will never forget my roots. However, I grew up in France so I got the chance to learn a lot about some excellent French techniques through cooking French food. That, combined with my love for Thai cooking, which involves an explosion of flavours, has enabled me to come up with my own take on contemporary Thai food. It’s my personal journey on a plate which I’m hoping to share with my customers.
How did the French people receive you when you first opened your restaurant?
French people thought that L’Orchidée was just another Chinese restaurant. “Where are the springs rolls? Where is the buffet?” they’d ask. “Umm I’m sorry, we’re a Thai restaurant,” I’d explain semi-apologetically. I’m glad more and more people will now get to understand and appreciate what Thai food is really all about.
What about the Thais living there? Did they embrace your cooking?
When Thais first tasted our cooking, there were two kinds of feelings – one group said it wasn’t really Thai cooking, but you see, that was never our goal. Some said it was amazing and couldn’t get over how we’re presenting Thai cuisine in this way.
What are the star dishes at L’Orchidée?
Our signature dishes include the beef Carpaccio with Avocado Cream and Som Tum sauce gel, Scallops cooked with a Quince and Caper Purée, Roasted Broccoli and Green Curry Espuma.
What is your personal view on the Michelin Guide Thailand?
It’s a great thing for Thailand’s gastronomy industry and the tourism industry. Thai restaurants with a Michelin star are so modern and avant-garde. I love the guide and I’m proud to be a small part of the Thai gastronomic movement.
Do you know some if not most of the restaurants mentioned in the guide?
Yes I know a few and have already been to Gaggan (2 Michelin Stars), Nahm (1 Michelin Stars), Paste (1 Michelin Star), Le Du (1 Michelin Star) and Issaya Siamese (Michelin Plate).
Thai cuisine is definitely increasing in popularity outside of Thailand. Why do you think this is so?
I believe that Thai food has so much depth; It’s so complex and involves a combination of ingredients for it to work. Today’s gourmands are looking for something new with which to excite their palates, like South American cuisine or Asian cooking. With Thai cuisine, there’s an entire world of possibilities still waiting to be discovered. I’m only just getting started!
