Located at the confluence of the Nemunas and Neris Rivers, Kaunas is hailed as Lithuania’s second city. It has a recorded history of nearly 700 years and, from 1920-1940, even took on the responsibility of being the temporary capital. Boasting no less than five MICHELIN-recommended restaurants, which sit against a UNESCO-protected backdrop of modernist interwar architecture, it’s easy to see why this is a place that draws those in the know.
From culinary art to street art, wandering the narrow streets to exploring monasteries and taking in stunning sunset views, here’s how to spend a weekend in Kaunas.
Day 1: The Old Town
Morning
This morning, we start at the very beginning: Kaunas Old Town. Grab breakfast on-the-go with an Italian bake from Pastarello Forno or head further afield to Bundu for one of their sourdough pastries. Then it’s time to get exploring. Kaunas' history is traceable back to the 14th century, and its medieval architecture reflects centuries of trade and conflict. Start with a gentle walk down the pedestrianised cobbles of Vilniaus Street, which leads directly to Kaunas Town Hall, also nicknamed ‘The White Swan’ for its striking colour. In winter, the Town Hall Square erupts with Christmas festivities, that include a market and a decorated tree. For a bird’s eye view of proceedings, climb the 53m tower, where you’ll be rewarded with an attractive cityscape vista.
As the clock strikes 10am, the nearby Kaunas Castle opens its doors. The red-brick turrets could have sprung from the pages of a fairytale and, having been constructed in the 14th century, it’s at the heart of the city’s medieval history. It’s a five-minute walk if you go direct from Kaunas Town Hall to the castle’s entrance, but it’s worth taking the scenic route via the Nemunas and Neris Confluence Park.
Lunch
It’s time to refuel and, conveniently, there’s a delicious spot nearby. Arrivée might be better known for its immersive four-hour tasting dinners, but it also welcomes diners between 10am and 2pm on weekends.
Here’s the trick. Since the restaurant is set inside a 17th-century former Dominican monastery, midday dining is wonderful for admiring the architecture and its tiny hidden inner-yard, so seize the opportunity to catch the venue in its best light and arrive promptly after visiting Kaunas Castle. It has an affinity for French pastries, with decadent selections including pain au chocolat, viennoiserie and croissants, while the brunch menu offers dishes like eggs benedict with salmon gravlax or oeuf en meurette – both happy paired with a glass of sparkling champagne.
Afternoon
After refuelling, order a taxi to Pažaislis Monastery. This Baroque complex is located 12km outside the city centre, with an adjoining museum and optional tours (be sure to book in advance). The 17th-century building is adorned with beautiful artwork, including frescoes by painter Michele Arcangelo Palloni – which are some of the largest and best-preserved examples of Baroque paintings in the Baltic region.
While you’re here, allow additional time to walk the sandy shorelines of Kauno Marios, also known as the Kaunas Reservoir Regional Park. Lithuania’s largest artificial lake, it’s a popular spot for both paddle sports and fishing.
Dinner and Evening
Today’s itinerary has certainly clocked up the mileage, but this evening is now dedicated entirely to indulging in the culinary arts. You have two choices: Monte Pacis, a short walk away, sits within the peaceful parklands, while Uoksas, back in the city centre, has an industrial-chic aesthetic.
Both restaurants tackle Lithuanian cuisine with a creative vision. Monte Pacis focuses on a highly visual aesthetic with its striking presentation (and a sublime wine list), while Uoksas aims to redesign Lithuania's traditional dishes using modern techniques.
Day 2: Culture and Nature
Morning
This morning is dedicated to walking the manicured paths of Nemunas Island Park. In warmer weather, grab a picnic blanket, order a pastry and a coffee to-go and you’ll find yourself fitting right in at this favoured local hangout.Attractions on the island include the science museum, Mokslo Sala, with its futuristic design and engagingly immersive planetarium. There’s also the adjoining Žalgiris Arena and Žalgiro Swimming Pool on the southeastern end of the island. All are worth a detour.
Lunch
When midday rolls around, head back across the river to DIA. Set behind wooden gates on a quiet residential street, this smart restaurant offers both a brunch menu and an international à la carte. Keep it classic with Belgian waffles or Turkish eggs on the former, or sample the likes of Chilean sea bass with an emulsion of garlic and miso from the latter. Take a seat inside or soak up the ambiance of its inner courtyard, which in winter transforms into a glittering fairyland.
Afternoon
After a delectable lunch, walk towards the leafy outer neighbourhood of Žaliakalnis. Famed for its greenery, this borough has long cradled the intellectuals of Kaunas. Aim for the Hill of Owls, a panoramic viewpoint dotted with stone birds, perched like sentinels; note the colourful wooden architecture of Juozas Zikaras Memorial Museum, just a stone’s throw away; and enjoy a leisurely walk along A. Mackevičiaus Street.
Next on the itinerary is the Devil’s Museum, perhaps one of the quirkiest attractions in the city. Loop back to admire its unusual collection of over 3,000 devil statues, with mythological explanations of each artefact translated into English. Plan to stay for at least an hour.
On your way back, keep your eyes peeled for some more light-hearted artwork. By now, you’ve probably noticed that Kaunas has a passion for street art – you can spot the Pink Elephant and Yard Gallery while returning to Kaunas Old Town via E. Ožeškienės.
Dinner and Evening
Catching sunset doesn’t get more special than at the Aleksotas Observation Deck. This viewpoint overlooks Kaunas Old Town from the opposite bank of the Nemunas River; check the sunset times, and plan dinner around it.
To reach Aleksotas, cross Vytautas The Great Bridge and spot the crimson-bodied, yellow-roofed funiculars (€2 round-trip, paid strictly in cash). The railway is a charming piece of Lithuanian heritage and has been in operation since 1935 (four years after the city introduced its first funicular at Žaliakalnis). The ride itself is short, but sweet, with passengers emerging at the observation deck in around a minute. This funicular runs until 6:50pm – sufficient time to experience sunset in winter, but necessitating the use of the stairs in summer.
Tonight’s reservation is at the Bib Gourmand-awarded Nüman. The restaurant’s feel-good atmosphere is an ideal finale to round off a busy day in Kaunas. First impressions count, and its jet-black exterior is delightfully unassuming. Nüman embraces seasonal fare, and guests can shape their evening with either an à la carte or a tasting menu. Be sure to treat yourself to ample servings of the tasty homemade bread; Kaunas has a knack for working up appetites.
Hero Image: Sunset over Kaunas Old Town, located at the confluence of the Nemunas and Neris Rivers in Lithuania (© Audrius Venclova/iStock)