Congratulations to Thalía Barrios García of One MICHELIN Star Levadura de Olla Restaurante, and the 2024 MICHELIN Guide Mexico Young Chef Award Winner.
Inspired to become a chef by the women in her family, García is motivated by sharing the flavors of San Mateo Yucutindoó. Through traditional Oaxacan recipes and seasonal ingredients, García has managed to do exactly that.
Now, the award winner is focused on strengthening communication with her team, ensuring clear traceability on all ingredients, and creating a colorful and creative menu. In celebration of her new accolade, we asked Chef García about Mexico's gastronomic scene, how she utilizes seasonal ingredients, and what her favorite cooking show is. Bon Appétit!
What inspired you to become a chef?
My family inspired me a lot, especially both of my grandmothers. One of them is the cook for weddings, in charge of making moles for celebrations as well as a baker. My other grandmother made tamales; she's no longer with us. My mom also showcased her cooking skills every day. Overall, I would say the women in my family were the largest inspiration.
How has your relationship with cooking changed as you've advanced in your career?
Throughout my career I've stepped back a bit from restaurant service, cooking less than I'd like. Meanwhile, I've strengthened communication with my team, ensured we have clear traceability in all our ingredients, and given my all every time we change the menu, so I would say it's changed a lot.
What motivates you in the kitchen?
Reviving the flavors of the food from my region and sharing everything that involves nourishing oneself in San Mateo Yucutindoó, from working the land to the conclusion of the all the hard work in the form of the food one eats, an end to the ritual.
What do you typically have for breakfast?
Memelas, which are thick corn tortillas topped with "asiento," fresh cheese, and salsa made in a molcajete.
How would you describe Mexico's gastronomic scene?
We´re a global point of reference whose progress is attracting attention for its use of pre-Hispanic techniques, ingredients, and especially traditional cuisine. The industry is coming together to promote, safeguard, and disseminate all the knowledge passed down through generations, present in families as part of their food culture.
How are seasonal ingredients used?
It's the starting point for the restaurant's operation. Apart from respecting seasons, the project plants its own crops, so we use ingredients responsibly and consciously. For what we don't harvest, I always keep an eye on the market days in our state's communities. With Climate Change, I don't want to force anything; I let the season come, enjoy it, appreciate it, let it go, and prepare for the next. Understanding that in Oaxaca, seasonal ingredients vary across its eight regions due to the diversity of climates.
Do you cook at home or leave work at the restaurant?
I cook little at home; I spend a lot of time in the restaurant, so I eat here.
Favorite cooking show, book, or program?
Netflix's Chef's Table. Fantastic Fungi. Nuevo Cocinero Mexicano en Froma de Diccionario (New Mexican Cook in the shape of a dictionary). Libro Larousse de La Cocina Mexicana (Larousse of Mexican Cooking).
Hero image: Thalía Barrios García
Thumb: Thalía Barrios García
