Marco Müller, born 30km outside of Berlin, in Potsdam, is the man at the helm of the capital's first, and right now only, three-star restaurant: Rutz. His restaurant is not only highly acclaimed, but it has also been awarded a Green Star for its sustainable initiatives.
“Restaurateurs dare to try things out here”
As a successful chef, a dedicated father of three girls and an enthusiastic sportsman, he leads an exceptionally busy life. In addition, he makes time to tap into the vibrant culinary scene and new concepts opening in Berlin every day. At least once a week he is out and about in the city. "It's just exciting to see what's happening here in the culinary world and how Berlin has evolved. As an international hot spot and currently one of the most exciting cities in the world, Berlin has no shortage of restaurant-goers. At the same time, the restaurateurs here dare to try things out," Müller tells us. A win-win situation!
We asked him which places he would particularly recommend. In the course of an inspiring conversation, he shared some great tips. Read on to find out where you might run into him on a shopping trip.
A visit to Markthalle Neun – more than a trendy hipster spot, it's just really good!
„Domberger Brot-Werk has created great things."
A brilliant bread culture has developed in Berlin over the last few years. Thank goodness the time when the Office of Germany's Federal President had to be supplied with bread from Hanover is history. There is now an incredible number of excellent small bakeries, some of which bake just one type of bread. Domberger, however, is the bakery of choice for me, as, courtesy of its different branches, it makes excellent bread accessible. Their baking is just insanely good quality." From farm-style bread to rye bread to spelt bread, all the loaves are top-notch. Domberger Brot also supplies hotels and many restaurants that are recommended in the MICHELIN Guide, such as the Hotel Adlon, Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Richard and Golvet.
Eisenbahnstr. 42/43, 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg
Frisch Gefischt - „Ultra-fresh fish for the end consumer"
Frisch Gefischt is a young company from Hamburg that supplies the restaurant industry. It has been running its fish counter in Markthalle Neun since 2022. "A real boon, because here you get ultra-fresh fish for the end consumer," Marco Müller tells us. "From fishing boat to kitchen, only one port of call: Markthalle Neun," writes Markthalle Neun on its website. Furthermore, the fish and seafood are not only exceedingly fresh thanks to short food supply chains and pioneering logistics, but they are also sustainable, on account of more environmentally friendly fishing methods. So, what are we waiting for?!
Eisenbahnstr. 42/43, 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg
Blutwurstmanufaktur – the „Outstanding Blutwurst“
Müller also raves about the Blutwurstmanufaktur in Neukölln, a very special butcher's shop founded in 1902. There is much more than just blood sausage here: "Kraków Fleischwurst", "Berlin liver sausage", hams and salami. Marco Müller boils it down to this: "Of course, cuisines continue to evolve, but there are just some foods that have always been good and must remain so… and that's precisely the case here. The blood sausage produced by this manufacturer is simply first rate. The best blood sausage in Berlin."
Karl-Marx-Platz 9-11, 12043 Berlin-Neukölln
Blomeyer’s Käse – „Fritz just has incredible intuition when it comes to cheese."
„Fritz Blomeyer just has incredible intuition and his assortment of wares demonstrates that Italy, France and Spain are not the only ones who know a thing or two about cheese," Müller enthuses. In fact, Marco Müller was one of Blomeyer's first customers and pretty soon he had removed all French cheeses from Rutz's range, replacing them with hand-matured German cheeses from Blomeyer's small manufactories. Drop by his shop or order online.
Pestalozzistraße 54a, 10627 Berlin-Charlottenburg
And what about drinks? Beer, brandies and Bellini
Schoppe Bräu - „Great fun to drink"
Marco Müller is a fan of small-scale productions that "stand for excellent quality drinks". His favourite tipple was already on the market in Berlin before smaller breweries started competing with the big corporations about 10 years ago. The wonderfully charismatic beer, Schoppe Bräu, which comes from Berlin, has been around since 2001 and is made using high-quality hops. "Great fun to drink!" says Müller. You can taste their range at Taproom in Kreuzberg – under the expert guidance of Mr Schoppe himself on Mondays.
SCHOPPE BRÄU Taproom im Bierkombinat, Manteuffelstraße 53, 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg
Deutsche Spirituosen Manufaktur DSM - „Made in Berlin"
Marco Müller has distillates from Deutsche Spirituosen Manufaktur both at home and in his restaurant – all made in Berlin. "You can actually distil alcohol anywhere. It makes it all the more special that the manufactory is located in Berlin, which is not exactly associated with distilleries.'' With its high-quality schnapps, this manufactory founded in 2017 has made a name for itself that already reaches far beyond Berlin. "The brandies are just unbelievably enjoyable, have an exceptional quality and are purely distilled." Müller's particular recommendation: Williams Pear, in which you can taste the juicy yellow pear mash – clean, very elegant with lovely floral notes.
Brennerei, Georg-Knorr-Str. 4, 12681 Berlin
Store & Showroom, Brunnenstr. 163, 10119 Berlin
Weinladen Schmidt am Kollwitz Platz - „Wine shop and wine bar under the same roof"
"Day-drinking" is the buzzword here, a trend that actually fits perfectly with the concept of "wine shop and wine bar under the same roof". Kollwitzplatz, where Weinladen Schmidt is located, is also beautifully verdant, and home to a popular weekly market – the perfect location for sitting down at wooden tables in the middle of Berlin in the afternoon and choosing a glass or bottle from the fantastic list. To accompany your wine, sliced sausage and ham are served. Afterwards, you can purchase whatever takes your fancy, to take away or have sent to your home.
Kollwitzstraße 50, 10405 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
And, when he is not cooking in a restaurant or at home, where might you find Marco Müller sitting at the table next to you? We ask him about food stalls and street food, as well as fine dining restaurants.
He goes to Chinese restaurant Hot Spot by Mr. Wu with his family. "Aubergine Yu Xiang Art" is one of the dishes that everyone swears by. A Mosel Riesling from the terrific wine list, which also includes rarities, is the perfect accompaniment to the food.
He also raves about Taiwanese restaurant Lon Men's Noodle House: "Eating here is a must in the city, whether by day or night. You have four people cooking in an absurdly small kitchen. It smells really good and it's fun to watch the chefs while waiting for your pork dumplings with ponzu, which are 'addictive'." And at Lon Men's Noodle House, they have no idea who all these loyal customers are.
Hot Spot by Mr. Wu, Eisenzahnstr. 66, 10709 Berlin-Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf
Lon Men’s Noodle House, Kantstraße 33, 10625 Berlin-Charlottenburg
Just a stone's throw from Ku'damm, in the Charlottenburg district, you'll find Chicago Williams BBQ. "This is a good place to eat before going out on the town. We order BBQ pork ribs with apple sauce or BBQ US beef ribs for everyone, put them in the middle of the table and let everyone tuck in – it's really convivial. The BBQ sauce is really good."
Curry 36 now has four branches and claims to make the most popular currywurst in Berlin. If it is the currywurst of choice of one of the best chefs in the world, then it is probably true. He himself goes to the Kreuzberg outlet and pronounces without qualms that "there's nothing wrong with a good currywurst".
Chicago Williams BBQ, Marburger Str. 16, 10789 Berlin-Charlottenburg
Curry 36, Mehringdamm 36, 10961 Berlin-Kreuzberg
And what about culinary highlights that have also made it into the MICHELIN Guide?
893 Ryotei is wonderful, with its appealing range of ultra-fresh fish and creative sushi. There is a relaxed atmosphere, both at the counter and tables.
Restaurants he's been to recently and would recommend off the bat to international travellers (apart from Rutz)?
His favourites: Bandol sur mer – fine dining in a former kebab shop, CODA Dessert Dining – unlike anything else, Horváth – refined Austrian-style cuisine and, of course, the offshoot of Rutz: Rutz-Zollhaus, for high-level bourgeois cooking.
And where to afterwards? Can he recommend a bar? Yes, he can recommend a bar – or three!
Freundschaft - „An established part of the Berlin landscape"
Freundschaft is within walking distance of Rutz. "It's the equivalent of Weinladen Schmidt, but more geared towards evenings. It's a laid-back place where you can choose from a large selection of wonderful wines." Marco Müller goes there with friends, colleagues and winemakers. "I'm there every two weeks for sure! Freundschaft is an established part of the Berlin landscape."
Mittelstr. 1, 10117 Berlin
Two cocktail bars that have become mainstays of Berlin nightlife are Velvet Bar in Neukölln and Becketts Kopf in Prenzlauer Berg. Each marches to the beat of its own drum, but they share an emphasis on striving for perfection in the art of mixology.
Becketts Kopf, Pappelallee 64, 10437 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg
Velvet Bar, Ganghoferstraße 1, 12043 Berlin-Neukölln
And where should you crawl into bed in Berlin in the early hours? Which hotels does Müller rate?
The historical Wilmina, erstwhile women's prison, now designer hotel, Monbijou Hotel, and Das Stue – all three also recommended by the MICHELIN Guide.
Plan your culinary trip to Berlin right away and see if you happen to bump into Marco Müller!
Illustration Image Marco Müller © Restaurant Rutz