Housed in what looks like an unremarkable industrial building, find this setting worthy of interior design magazine covers. Once inside, head up the few stairs to arrive at Smyth; then proceed into a space, which feels so comfortable that it’s easy to forget you’re in a restaurant. The service staff is hospitable, down-to-earth and manages to keep the ambience relaxed despite Chefs John Shields and Karen Urie's intense craftsmanship. Beyond, the open kitchen mixes white tiles and cutting-edge equipment with a roaring hearth fire. There is a “come as you are” feeling among the crowd here, but everyone has dressed up a bit, as if in deference to the superb meal that awaits them. Original, and at times even pleasantly experimental, this kitchen's cooking has a clear vision that is sure to meet every expectation of its versatile diners. Some dishes deliver surprises through strong and gutsy flavor combinations, like a well-aged ribeye rubbed with yeasty Marmite. Other menu items strive for subtlety, such as the dried pear “jerky. ” Creativity reaches its height in the “milk chocolate” dessert, which is more of a brilliant umami-bomb than confection, served with huckleberries and shiitakes.