MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Chef Sarah Grueneberg is a local celebrity, so expect her offspring to be packed to the last dining counter stool by 5:30 P.M. Then again this is prime seating, because behind that wood-grain bar lies the pasta station where sheets are rolled, cut and hung to dry before appearing on your plate. Her signature Italian cooking—or cucina tipica as the menu lists it—is what draws crowds. That said, this menu is about more than just pasta, beginning with an extraordinary yet humble vessel displaying neat little bundles of cabbage leaves stuffed with herbed breadcrumbs, mushrooms and served in an inky-dark porcini Bolognese. "Wok-fried" orecchiette are also pleasantly toothsome, slicked with spicy tomato sauce and topped with gorgeously fresh head-on shrimp.