A perfect marriage of French sensibilities and Japanese influences, SÉZANNE is a reflection of executive chef Daniel Calvert’s global experience and dedication to interweaving different cuisines and cultures.
SÉZANNE takes the traditional fare of France and enhances it with a modern interpretation. It is a conviction that has led to the meteoric rise to fame and success, earning the restaurant a MICHELIN Star just six months after opening in 2022; a second star a year after; and a third a year after that.
In the blink of an eye, SÉZANNE has soared and risen to cement its place among the top restaurants in the world. We speak to one of our inspectors about their notes on the restaurant’s dishes, ambience, and overall dining experience.
Arrival
SÉZANNE is located in the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, which is cheek-and-jowl with the station building and tracks of Tokyo Station. Amidst the hustle and bustle is the hotels understated entrance. Enter and take the elevators to the seventh floor where you will be greeted the front of house.
“The dining room, designed by Hong Kong-based designer Andre Fu, soothes the eye with its Champagne-themed color scheme, matte finish wooden floors and light-toned carpets and chairs. Central Tokyo, seen through soaring glass windows, slips in and out of view through lace curtains. The chic interior sports a stylish modern vibe with a relaxing atmosphere, as if invited into the home of a well-heeled friend. Baccarat candles adorn leather-covered tables. Accents such as Christofle silverware and Raynaud white porcelain exude the esprit of a French dining establishment,” our inspector shares.
Team SÉZANNE
“The staff bring a rich international tenor to both kitchen and dining room. Through the windows adjoining the two, guests can watch the cooks attending to their tasks, their serious demeanour and passion for their craft on display for all to see. Service staff keep an attentive eye on each table, providing graceful service to guests from Japan and overseas,” our inspector says.
The Meal
The Gougères (cheese puffs) of Comté cheese have been an indispensable amuse-bouche since the restaurant’s opening in 2021. Comté cheese is aged for years and served warm to draw out its rich flavour.
“The varying amuse-bouche are served as round, bite-sized pieces on three white porcelain plates. It is worth noting that all of SÉZANNE’s serving dishes are white, which convey a pure, immaculate image that places the cuisine on a lofty pedestal,“ our inspector shares.
Chef Calvert’s passion for combining flavors and techniques from different cuisines and cultures is seen in the appetiser: a terrine of foie gras arranged using Chinese culinary methods.
“Japan-raised chicken is marinated in Chinese soy sauce and spices such as star anise and stuffed into the centre of the terrine. Chef Calvert’s ingenuity in mining his Hong Kong experience to create this unique work is an inspiration. The terrine is accompanied by a fresh-baked brioche, attesting to the importance of classic combinations,” our inspector shares.
“The main dish is duck raised in Toyohashi, Aichi Prefecture. The dish consists of duck dried for several days, coated with honey on the skin and baked. The generous serving of duck-liver sauce is rich and the Dijon mustard is emulsified to silky smoothness. The accompaniment varies by season. For my visit, it was asparagus dressed with potato and lardo. The originality of integrating Peking Duck techniques in a classic French duck dish is striking In addition, the restaurant will serve duck bone soup or stew of duck thigh in the middle of this course, testament to the principle of zero waste, as well as respect for both the ingredients and producers.”
Conclusion
SÉZANNE has consistently evolved since the day it opened. It is evident that Chef Daniel Calvert has gained a deep appreciation of the importance of seasonality in Japan. Pursuing Japan’s high quality ingredients, Calvert naturally began incorporating classics such as soy sauce and miso into his menus.
“Grounded in French cooking but fused with the culinary cultures of many nations, Calvert’s offerings have story arcs all their own. The delicate cuisine of SÉZANNE is the product of a team of professionals who prepare with precision and trust each other implicitly. Over the course of a year, several inspectors from around the world sampled SÉZANNE’s wares, careful to visit in different seasons. The three-star achievement is a testament to the team’s collective efforts,” our inspector shares.
Top Image: ⒸSÉZANNE
