You may only know Surat Thani as the gateway to Ko Samui. However, the province housing this paradisiacal island has much more to offer. Breathtaking nature, iconic tourist destinations, and a memorable culinary experience await you. If you're unsure about what to eat, let's seek some guidance from an expert.
Chef Sujira ‘Aom’ Pongmorn is a Thai food connoisseur. She earned Saawaan one MICHELIN Star and won the first MICHELIN Guide Young Chef Award in 2020. Currently, this talented chef manages Yoong Khao Hom (Pathum Wan), a 2023 Bib Gourmand restaurant originally from Ko Samui in the south of Thailand, with the aim of showcasing the multiculturalism of Southern Thai cuisine.
"Stereotypically, people often associate Southern Thai food with extreme spiciness that brings tears to your eyes," says Chef Pongmorn. "However, the reality is that Southern cuisine is incredibly diverse. This region is home to Chinese and Muslim communities, which means you'll encounter a rich blend of Thai, Chinese, and Muslim culinary influences in its dishes. Furthermore, the same dish can undergo variations when prepared by different neighbours, reflecting local ingredients and preferences. For instance, in Muslim communities, dishes tend to be generously spiced, delivering a fiery heat, while in Chinese communities, you might find the same dish to be milder in terms of spiciness."
She shares, "Surat Thani and Ko Samui are surrounded by the ocean, so seafood is a common ingredient. Curry in mainland Surat Thani is fiery, but with Thai and Chinese influences, Samui’s recipes are not as piquant. There is also an abundance of coconut on Samui, and it’s reflected on the local menus."
7 dishes from Surat Thani and Ko Samui Chef Pongmorn wants you to try
Sea urchin salad
Chef Pongmorn discovered this local dish during her visit to Ko Samui. Sea Urchin Salad is popular amongst fishermen. The sea urchin they catch along with fish is paired with spicy mango salad. Southern Thai’s urchin may not be as creamy as Japanese uni. But, with the flavourful dressing and sour green mango, the dish tastes refreshing. Yoong Khao Hom uses uni for familiarity. But, when you have a chance to visit Samui, don’t miss the original recipe.Thai-style squid in its ink
Although it’s a common dish in the South, each neighbourhood has its own distinctive recipe. Some communities stuff splendid squid with sticky rice before boiling it in black soy sauce, while others use ink instead of soy sauce, and some combine both. The taste is typically salty with a sweet hint. This dish is particularly popular among fishermen in Surat Thani and Samui, who prepare large portions to sustain themselves during their days at sea. Interestingly, the squid tends to taste even better when reheated.Yoong Khao Hom's recipe is inspired by Samui’s version. The squid is stuffed with sticky rice before being fried in the ink of the bigfin reef squid, which imparts a less noticeable odour. Additionally, herbs are added to enhance the aroma and nutritional value.
Crab curry with betel leaves
This Southern Thai dish is popular nationwide, but Ko Samui’s recipe stands out with its use of fish paste instead of the more familiar shrimp paste. Creamy coconut milk, zesty curry paste, the unique aroma of betel leaves, and generous chunks of crab marrow combine to create a hearty curry. Whether served over rice or rice noodles, you're in for a heavenly meal.Stir-fried Malindjo leaves with egg
This easy menu is loved by people all over Thailand. Simply fry the ubiquitous Malindjo leaves with eggs, and you get a dish to balance out the spiciness of other delicious menus. Add this to the list when you visit Surat Thani or Ko Samui.Pan roasted pork belly with soy sauce
Whether pronounced with a short or long vowel, 'Moo Ko' signifies a delectable dish of pan-roasted pork belly soaked in soy sauce. Start by simmering the meat to let it absorb the sauce's rich flavour. Then, crank up the heat to achieve the perfect crispiness and appetising colours. The result is 'Moo Ko,' a dish adored by many for its delightful contrast of crunchy exterior and tender interior. This culinary gem is cherished everywhere, extending far beyond the borders of Surat Thani and Ko Samui, and it complements a wide range of menus.Southern sour curry with fish and coconut shoot
Southern sour curry, also known as Thai yellow curry, is distinctive for its yellow hue and soup-like consistency. The abundant sea surrounding Surat Thani and Ko Samui provides locals with a year-round supply of seabass, grouper, barracuda, and other fish. Chef Pongmorn adds lotus root for an extra crunch. In the coconut-rich environment of Ko Samui, the sour curry gains added texture and flavour from the fresh shoots.Squid in coconut curry
This rare delicacy represents the identity of Ko Samui. Octopus caught from the sea around the island is cooked with coconut milk and shrimp paste, resulting in an aromatic 'white' curry infused with herbs. Other types of squid won't yield the same flavour. This menu is exclusive to Ko Samui and isn't available at Yoong Khao Hom. Consider making it a highlight of your next Ko Samui trip.Planning a gastronomy trip from Surat Thani to Ko Samui?
Surat Thani is the largest province in Southern Thailand, boasting numerous well-known and hidden gems waiting to be explored. Chef Pongmorn recommends a visit to the Leeled Community in Punpin, a coastal district along the Gulf of Thailand. The neighbourhood's vast mangrove forests and seascape offer a memorable 'Amazon of Thailand' experience.In addition to its coastal attractions, you can venture to Rajjaprabha Dam (Cheow Lan) in Khao Sok National Park. There, you can relax on a raft floating amidst the lake while taking in the breathtaking views of the surrounding limestone mountains.
When you cross over to Ko Samui, don't miss Hin Ta Hin Yai (Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks), famous for its unique and “naughty” natural formations that make it a popular check-in spot. Along Bo Phut Beach, you'll find the so-called Fisherman’s Village, a charming small road lined with interesting shops in vintage buildings. Enjoy your time exploring, savouring fresh seafood at local restaurants, and relaxing in lovely cafes and bars that are open all day long.
The MICHELIN Guide has now expanded to Surat Thani and Ko Samui. In addition to delicious local menus recommended by the talented Chef Pongmorn, you can enjoy MICHELIN-listed restaurants such as:
- Long Dtai (MICHELIN-recommended, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024)
- Bang Por Seafood (Takho) (MICHELIN-recommended, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024)
- Sum Gradang Nga (Bib Gourmand, MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024)
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Illustration image: © Anuwat Senivansa Na Ayudhya/ MICHELIN Guide Thailand