Chefs are just like us...or are they? Have you ever wondered why your bread pairings or sandwiches always seem to be missing something compared to the ones you get served at restaurants? Or how about deliciously creative ways to breathe new life into bread that’s about to go bad? Well, you’re not alone. If you’re like us, replicating dishes from restaurants can be just as difficult as deciding where to eat. That’s why we took it upon ourselves to ask MICHELIN Guide restaurants for their secrets to the in’s and out’s of bread and pastries. So get your pen and paper ready, because this is how to enjoy your baked goods the MICHELIN way and where to get them.
And in case you missed it, from pineapples to the hardest produce to pick, here’s how the pro’s do it.
Bake It Nice—Laura Cronin, Executive Pastry Chef
Not hungry enough for Three Star Eleven Madison Park's tasting menu but still want a taste of their pastries? Then head on over to their new weekend pop-up, Bake It Nice, where a menu of vegan pastries inspired from the Three Star’s bread program await. Helmed by executive pastry chef Laura Cronin, the goal of this pop-up is to show that plant-based pastries can be just as delicious, if not more, than dairy-based pastries.
And while the first season of Bake It Nice has wrapped up, the weekend pop-up will be making another appearance next year.
Gjusta—Nicky Pickup, Chef
A combination of deli, bakery, cafe and market, Gjusta was initially meant to serve as a commissary kitchen that provided bread and pantry items to Gjelina. Since 2014, however, this bakery has evolved into a restaurant of its own. Through sourcing from Southern California farmers and local ranchers and fisherman, Gjusta is home to a highly seasonal menu filled with the bounty of Southern California.
The Bakery at Greywind—Dan Kluger, Chef/Owner
Fans of the renowned Loring Place will feel right at home when they visit Dan Kluger's new venture, Greywind. At Greywind, guests can enjoy rotisserie and vegetable-focused dishes. Downstairs, in Spygold, an intimate cocktail bar, you'll find modern takes on classic favorites. And finally, next door, the bakery offers a menu brimming with freshly baked goods. Designed to have “something for everyone”, each part of this culinary trifecta has been meticulously designed to provide a unique experience, all the while still staying true to Kluger's vision and standards.
Patti Ann's—Greg Baxtrom, Chef/Owner
Whereas Olmsted features a green and sustainable menu (ingredients are sourced from the green market and backyard garden), Patti Ann's is one focused on chef Baxtrom's upbringing in the Midwest. Tucked in the middle of Prospect Heights in Brooklyn, this restaurant bakery combines Midwestern hospitality with creative takes on comfort food—making it the perfect spot for families and friends alike.
Raf’s—Camari Mick, Pastry Chef/Co-Owner
Coming from executive chef Mary Frances Attea and pastry chef Camari Mick (the culinary team behind One Star The Musket Room), Raf’s was created to be an all-day operation. “We wanted it [Raf’s] to defy a singular conception and become a neighborhood mainstay,” Mick says. “We want it to be a place to gather and celebrate, but also your reliable go-to happy place.” And with a menu filled with fresh breads (Focaccia, Bâtard, Pain au Lait), delicious pastries (Pain au Chocolat, funghi danish, pistachio fig tart), and breakfast classics and lunch staples, this might just be the place to be.
What is the starting point when selecting bread/pastries? What about gluten-free options?
The starting point is always defined by what the bread will be used for, with the goal being that one doesn't waste anything. Fresh slices on day one for sandwiches, toast on day two, and any remainders are either sliced thinly for croutons or blitzed in to bread crumbs for meatballs.
—Nicky Pickup
If you want to have something for everyone, use artisanal, 100% naturally leavened breads that can be paired with a variety of items (meats, cheeses, sandwiches). This showcases a variety of shapes, sizes and flavor profiles.
As for gluten-free options, instead of artificial substitutes, you could use an inherently gluten-free recipe using alternative grains like corn or rolled oats. For example, our blueberry polenta muffin is modeled after a cornbread recipe that is naturally gluten-free.
—Dan Kluger
I don't want something super crusty that's going to chip my teeth when I bite into it. It does need to have texture, flavor, and integrity, but I don't want a "chefy" or fancy loaf of bread.
Usually gluten-free bread don't have super crusty options, but you want to avoid anything that has a super spongy texture.
—Greg Baxtrom
When selecting bread, I think about the dishes that it’s going to support; if it’s a soup or saucy dish, I go with something dense or spongy like a sourdough or foccacia to soak up the excess liquid. If it’s a sandwich, I like to use something with a nice crust like sourdough or brioche so that it'll hold all of the condiments and layered components.
For pastries, I think about what I’m in the mood for and then go with my gut.
—Camari Mick
How do you tell if something is about to go bad? Any tips/tricks?
With plant-based and dairy croissants, they are always best the day they are baked. If someone wants to enjoy it the day after, I always suggest that they toast it for a bit in the oven, as the longer they sit out, the less flaky and fresh they get.
—Laura Cronin
Usually, the crust will start to look a little dull and powdery, and it'll usually start to smell a little moldy before you can see any big changes. The biggest tip is to always slice your bread and keep it well wrapped in the freezer if you don't have time to do anything else. We usually make a batch of breadcrumbs to have in the freezer at home for last minute schnitzel.
—Nicky Pickup
Mold is typically an easy indicator. Also, as it starts to dry out, you’re running out of time. We have learned that 100% naturally leavened whole grain sourdough breads do stay fresh longer. Our gluten-free pastries also stay fresh for a surprisingly long time without drying out.
If something's about to go bad, make French toast, bread pudding, croutons, or breadcrumbs!
—Dan Kluger
Usually after 2 days, bread starts to turn a bit. The older it gets, the more bread needs an application of fat. Spread some butter or oil on it, and then grill it. It will rehydrate, but won't become dry and chalky. After 5 days, it's crouton bread.
—Greg Baxtrom
You'll know it's bad If the bread is too dry and the texture is crumbly and overall unpleasant to eat. This applies to gluten-free bread as well.
There's actually a variety of bread-saving dishes that you can make. Depending on the type of bread you have, you can make stuffing, bread-pudding, or panzanella. You could even soak it in milk to absorb the flavor and make a milk punch or ice cream out of it.
—Camari Mick
Favorite bread to work with? Hardest type of bread to prep? How about gluten free options?
Sourdough will always be my favorite to work with. It just goes from a pile of flour and water into this magical loaf with so little additional ingredients or fancy equipment. With time and repetition, most bread doughs become so enjoyable to work with.
Gluten-free is challenging by its very nature. Unlike high gluten content flours, this process can't be rushed. For example, we have to let ours rest for 24 hours after baking before we can even serve it.
—Nicky Pickup
My favorite to work with would have to be milk bread. To me, it’s the most versatile, and the loaves themselves can be used for a great sandwich or amazing French toast. At the restaurant, we even shape it into buns and rolls and then stuff it with surprising fillings.
Gluten-free bread is the most challenging—we are always working on it in order to make something we can be just as proud of as our traditional breads.
—Dan Kluger
I like having what I call "avocado toast bread" lying around. It's usually a more dense seeded loaf, made with a darker grain like rye, and has seeds and oats on the crust. At the store, it's sold in a smaller amount, which is more practical for me. It's usually perfect the day of, and then needs to be warmed back up in the days after.
The hardest types of bread to work with are the really seeded ones. There's just a lot of weight to it and the gluten is trying to hold it all in.
—Greg Baxtrom
My favorite bread to work with is definitely our cherry rye. We buy our rye flour from Maine Grains, and it is so fresh and fragrant that it just balances so well with the tart cherries we fold in. Not to mention the dough is also very forgiving and elastic.
The hardest to work with would have to be our croissants. They aren’t really that hard to make, they just take up a lot of time and space, forcing us to solely focus on laminating and shaping at the time of its production.
—Camari Mick
What are three fresh ingredients to make a no-fuss meal with bread?
Always, thick sliced ciabatta toast topped with burrata, prosciutto and whatever fruit is in season (peaches are to die for right now). Another is a late night grilled cheese on sourdough with whatever hard cheese you have in the fridge, toasted in good butter and olive oil and most essentially a good pickle on the side to cut through the fat. You also can't go wrong with sourdough fried in olive oil oil topped with mussels steamed in white wine, garlic, thyme and butter.
—Nicky Pickup
You could never go wrong with a BLT (Bacon, lettuce, and tomato)!
—Dan Kluger
Avocado, tomato, and bacon. If I cook bacon, I'll save the bacon fat (sometimes I don't even take it out of the pan). I'll slice bread, dip it in the fat, and then crisp it in the pan. I'll put whatever cheese I have on top, drizzle it with honey and then throw it in the oven for a few minutes. It's a great snack.
—Greg Baxtrom
Heirloom tomatoes, stracciatella cheese, and high-quality EVOO (extra virgin olive oil).
—Camari Mick
What are some common myths that aren't true when it comes to gluten free options?
Common myths are that they are not as good, they are not as healthy for you, and that they are dry.
—Laura Cronin
That it doesn't hold up to being toasted and has no flavor.
—Nicky Pickup
A lot of people think gluten-free equals dry and boring. However, gluten-free does not have to mean lesser quality. Frequently, guests that have enjoyed our gluten-free pastries are surprised to find out that they are in fact gluten-free!
—Dan Kluger
A common myth is that they're all bad. At this point, there are some great options out there. You're seeing more and more options that are house made in restaurants, so consumers are getting a better understanding of what gluten-free bread is and can be.
—Greg Baxtrom
That they overall taste terrible, which isn’t true. I’ve been successful in producing proper gluten-free bread that could hold its own against standard bread. At Musket Room I have a buckwheat roll to sub out our house sourdough for our gluten-free friends during their tasting menu.
—Camari Mick
If you were a bread, what type would you be?
I would probably be a pain au chocolat. I just really love chocolate!
—Laura Cronin
A baguette.
—Nicky Pickup
Seeded sourdough boule.
—Dan Kluger
I'd be the hard crusty bread that I just said I don't like.
—Greg Baxtrom
Babka!
—Camari Mick
Where (besides your establishment) do you grab a bread/pastry of choice?
I really enjoy pastries from La Cabra and Librae. I love when croissants are simple and not too sweet.
—Laura Cronin
Milo and Olive or Huckleberry Café!
—Nicky Pickup
Our friends at Russ & Daughters just opened nearby and they're a great stop for bagels. Winner’s baguette and La Cabra’s lamination are also industry standouts.
—Dan Kluger
Bergen Bagels is my go-to bagel place!
—Greg Baxtrom
Black Seed Bagels for bagels; La Bicyclette Bakery for baguettes, and Mel the Baker for pastries.
—Camari Mick
And finally, what is your favorite thing from the menu?
Agua fresca, Eleven Madison Home snacking peanut butter, our granola, and a classic croissant.
—Laura Cronin
This week it's the pastrami reuben. Last week it was the confit tomato and burrata on baguette. And then the week before that it was the prime rib baguette with a side of au jus and freshly grated horseradish.
—Nicky Pickup
Sourdough batard and a sea salt molasses chocolate chip cookie.
—Dan Kluger
The Spud Pizza with pepperoni, jalapeno and calabrian hot honey.
—Greg Baxtrom
The Raf’s classic candied orange almond croissant.
—Camari Mick
