With the Michelin Inspectors on the road throughout the year, they eat a vast array of dishes from all cuisine types and restaurant styles. Each month we ask our Inspectors to choose a stand-out dish from the past month's restaurant visits. This could be the most creative dish they ate, something that hit the right note at just the right time or simply the one that stuck in their memory for the longest.
October 2024
Isle of Wight Crab & Chips – The Terrace, Yarmouth
“This slightly tongue-in-cheek take on a seaside favourite showed off the kitchen’s playful streak. The 'chips' were two fingers of polenta, beautifully crisp around the sides and soft within. Each one topped with a blend of fresh white and claw crab meat bound in a light creamy dressing. A few thin slices of radish and batons of crunchy apple added a textural contrast and an acidic hit from the apple, while a purée of apple and chilli jam added a gentle warmth. The neat and refined presentation certainly added to the appeal.”
‘Cheese and Onion’: Alliums, Aged Cheddar and Onion Broth – CORE by Clare Smyth, London
“An updated version of one of Clare's signatures, this dish perfectly highlighted how flavours and combinations we may perceive as humble can shine at the highest level. Five-year-old cheddar filled the gaps between the leaves of a softened, lightly charred onion half. The cheese provided a wonderful richness and flavour, with further layers added by the subtle charred taste of the onion. A light caramelised onion broth was full of fragrance and freshness. This was a simple-looking dish but was filled with so much depth and elegance.”
Thirkleby Duck, Burnt Pear, Celeriac, Peppercorn – Restaurant Twenty-Two, Cambridge
“The duck breast itself had been masterfully cooked; its texture was firm and succulent, while the thin layer of fat had been nicely crisped and glazed with a reduction of soy sauce and port. All of the various accompaniments to the meat added something special: a glossy duck jus had wonderful depth, cut through by just the right amount of green peppercorns; silky celeriac purée brought further richness; pear ketchup added a balancing acidity; and finally, a beautiful bouquet of salad tossed in lightly smoked oil provided freshness and crunch.”
Hero Image: © CORE by Clare Smyth/Nathan Snoddon
September 2024
Cured salmon, Ajo Blanco, Grapes and Almond – Rhosyn, Penally
“This bright, colourful dish really gladdened my heart. The three fingers of salmon had taken on a firmer texture thanks to their curing and were accompanied by an ajo blanco. Having recently enjoyed a work trip to Spain, I was eager to test the chef’s version of this classic sauce – and he passed with flying colours. The ajo blanco was rich, creamy and garlicky, complementing the salmon so well. Fresh grapes and almonds helped to accentuate the flavours of the dish. The Japanese milk bread from the start of my meal was ideal for mopping up the remaining sauce.”
Tavern Tortelli, Wagyu Oxtail – Wild Tavern, London
“As soon as this dish arrived at the table, I got an inkling as to why it has become Wild Tavern’s signature pasta serving. The tortelli, made with very fine pasta, enclosed a generous helping of creamy oxtail ragù that released an aroma of such intense flavour as soon as you pierced the pasta. The sauce was the classic Italian emulsion of cooking water and butter, but with an extra touch of sophistication brought by a drizzle of pure demi-glace. Shavings of good quality parmesan added real depth. This dish may have looked simple, but it was executed with such skill.”
The Jaffa: Chocolate Mousse, Toasted Sesame, Orange, Salted Caramel Ice Cream – The Anchor, Ripley
“It was the late and much-missed chef Gary Rhodes who first created a dessert showcasing all the flavours and textures of the famed Jaffa Cake – and I’m sure he would have admired this version for its creativity. A thin layer of sponge was topped with a smooth and airy milk chocolate mousse, then an impressive mirror glaze. Finally, a piquant orange purée sat at the base, adding colour and that all-important orange flavour. A crisp sesame tuille lent texture and acted as the anchor for a smooth salted caramel ice cream, which cleverly cut through the richness.”
August 2024
Spider Crab and Scallop Raviolo – The Rectory, Crudwell
“Coming with little adornment, this dish was an exercise in pure, unadulterated flavour. A single plump raviolo was generously filled with flaked white sider crab meat and evenly chopped scallop, plus some herbal seasoning. What really elevated the dish, however, was the superb sauce: an intense, beautifully weighted seafood broth spiked with a little basil oil and semi-dried datterini tomatoes that provided the perfect combination of sweet and sour tones. Expertly crafted and packing a real punch, this was a dish to remember.”
Line Caught Cornish Cod, Chorizo, Chickpeas, Saffron Aioli – Pulpo Negro, New Alresford
“When this dish arrived, I could instantly smell the fresh salinity of the fish. Deboned and rolled to form a steak, the cod itself was cooked with real skill; the pearlescent flesh flaked away easily, while one side had a lovely golden brown tinge. The fish was partially covered by a well-balanced saffron aioli and a handful of chopped chives. Underneath, a soft chickpea and chorizo stew provided earthiness and piquancy that were cleverly enhanced by whole coriander seeds.”
Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Citrus, Wood Ants – LIGИUM, Ballaun
“At LIGИUM, Chef-Owner Danny Africano often uses produce sent by his father from the markets of southern Italy. In this case, Amalfi lemon was used for this dish that reminded Danny of his childhood. The lemon itself was huge; it was halved, the flesh scooped out and filled with a fine lemon sorbet. It was perfectly iced and the depth of flavour was extraordinary, providing an intense fruitiness and well-judged acidic hit. The wood ants on top added an appealing twist.”
July 2024
Sourdough Flatbreads with Pea Hummus – Pea Porridge, Bury St Edmunds
“The word ‘bread’ never fails to get me inordinately excited. It covers a multitude of shapes, flavours and textures, from classic loaves to wonderful buns and everything in between. I love the fact that countries all over the world have their own version of this staple foodstuff. The bread course at Pea Porridge was about as memorable and tasty as they come. It arrived piping hot from the oven, slightly charred and with a perfect texture. The topping of fresh herbs and salt was spot-on, as was the creamy hummus bursting with natural pea flavour.”
Mackerel – Condita, Edinburgh
“The thing about Condita is that you’re never quite sure what you’re going to get. The ‘menu’ is simply an illustrated bookmark with drawings of the ingredients you will taste during the meal. So when this dish arrived, all I knew was that it contained mackerel – and what a joyous surprise it was! The fish, landed in Pittenweem, was wonderfully fresh, with a delicate yet distinct flavour. Its light oiliness was cut through by the piquancy of pickled gooseberry, while the bitterness of turnip kombucha was an equally skilful and complementary addition."
Valrhona Jivara, Szechuan, Coffee, 21 Year Balsamic – The Morrison Room, Maynooth
“What a brilliantly executed chocolate dessert this was. Two round spheres of milk chocolate parfait were so light in texture, yet still provided a full chocolate flavour. A third orb was made from a much richer dark chocolate cremeux, coated in soft coffee jelly and topped with a generous amount of gold leaf. The wild card elements of the dish were tiny spots of reduced balsamic and an ice cream flavoured with Sichuan pepper. It takes a supremely skilful chef to pull these off and here they were a great success, adding balance and real interest to the dish.”
June 2024
Agnolotti, Burnt Lemon, Broad Beans and Rosemary – Story, London
“One of the highlights of my meal at Story, this dish was a wonderful mix of flavours and textures that will live long in the memory. The agnolotti was impressively precise: cooked perfectly and made with evenly thin pasta. Creamy mascarpone provided the generous filling. A wonderfully rich, full-flavoured butter sauce was a great accompaniment, as was the textural contrast of broad beans and the finishing touch of burnt lemon and rosemary juice. This was squeezed at the table using a duck press, adding a bit of theatre to the experience.”
Black Sole On the Bone, Jerusalem Artichoke, Brown Shrimp and Grenobloise Garnish – 1826, Adare
“This is something of a signature dish here, such a favourite that apparently they could never take it off the menu. The sole was expertly cooked, golden brown and moist, with the flesh coming away from the bone beautifully. The garnishes were in perfect harmony; some crunchy crisps provided a good textural contrast to creamy artichoke purée, while sweet brown shrimps were balanced out by the acidity of capers. The clarified butter around the base of the plate completed the homage to the classic Grenobloise sauce and a few wafer-thin crispbreads finished the dish.”
Hereford Beef, Lettuce, Tarragon, Pickles and Red Wine – hide and fox, Saltwood
“Pink and succulent, the fillet of beef itself was cooked to perfection, with a discernible hit of maturity to the flavour. It melted in the mouth, as did a delicious cube of shredded short rib, topped with crispy shallot and capers. A finger of superbly executed glazed ‘pommes anna’ was suitably crisp and buttery, garnished with tiny dots of tarragon cream. Finishing the dish were a red wine reduction with terrific depth of flavour and a single, crisp ‘basket’ of baby gem lettuce brimming with tiny pickled vegetables that cleverly enhanced this impressively refined dish.”
May 2024
Dry Aged Trout, Wild Garlic and Onion – Wilsons, Bristol
“The fillet of trout itself was superb, lightly confit’d and finished on the barbecue to add an extra dimension to the dish both flavour and texture-wise. This already delicious main component was elevated even further by a light, sweet onion broth that subtly melded with a smooth wild garlic purée to fabulous effect. All this richness was cleverly cut through by a few pickled mushrooms. A dumpling of trout trimmings wrapped in nettle was the perfect finishing touch, providing a dash of originality.”
Pot Roast Pork Loin with Apple and Wholegrain Mustard Roasting Juices – The Sportsman, Seasalter
“The words 'pot roast' rather intrigued me when ordering this dish, as it’s a term you seldom see these days. When the dish arrived, I was not disappointed. A creamy, buttery ‘pommes purée’ formed the base, along with a single lightly cooked carrot and finely shredded sweetheart cabbage. Draped over the top of the vegetables was a thick slice of moist, melting pork. Apple puree and mustard thickened the cooking juices to create a sauce with gentle sweetness and just a hint of bitterness. Bring back pot roasting is all I can say!”
Muscat Crème Caramel with Agen Prune – Walnut Tree, Llanddewi Skirrid
“For many years, I have always chosen a crème caramel as my birthday pudding treat! It’s a simple dish, but one that easily tests the quality of a kitchen. Long-standing Chef-Owner Shaun Hill brings years of experience to the Walnut Tree, and they shone through in one of the best versions of this classic dessert that I’ve had in years. The just-set wobbly dome was texturally perfect and there was a delicious muscat flavour running throughout. The glossy, exquisitely made caramel top was a delight and a poached Agen prune was a delicious extra touch.”
April 2024
Glazed Rare Breed Beef, Charred Leeks, Black Garlic – Celentano’s, Glasgow
“Entirely befitting of a Bib Gourmand restaurant, this dish was hearty, full of flavour and so satisfying to eat – all while showcasing the care and skill of the Celentano’s kitchen team. The beef itself had an appearance not unlike brisket, and was tender to cut, while the thin layer of fat on the meat had been rendered well. It was served with charred baby leeks, a creamy black garlic purée and some finely chopped herbs. A slightly reduced sauce added an extra layer of flavour to finish off the dish.”
Mauritius Vanilla Cube, Roasted Pineapple, Salted Caramel – Gauthier – Soho, London
“Some might think it’s hard to make a rich and creamy dessert that’s also plant-based, but clearly they haven’t had this fine cube of soft vanilla mousse. The assured and strikingly simple presentation made the dish look all the more inviting, and then the intensity of the vanilla flavour delivered on that promise. A wafer-thin, crisp chocolate shell provided a contrast of texture, while super-fruity pineapple compote and glossy salted caramel sauce both worked well to enhance the dish.”
Fritto Misto – Norma, London
“For any London diners seeking a big slice of true Sicilian generosity, look no further than Norma on Charlotte Street. As my starter arrived, I feared I had mistakenly ordered two main courses such was the scale of the enticing ‘fritto’ seafood that came my way. Sea bass polpette, tender squid and delicious red prawns were all included, and given extra flavour by preserved lemon and a chilli aioli topped with red sorrel. It was enough to share – not that I wanted to – but I still found space for an equally super-sized cannoli to finish.”
March 2024
Herdwick Hogget, Mushroom Cream, Asparagus, Morels and Périgord Truffle – White Swan, Fence
“Inside this lovely rustic pub, Chef-Owner Tom Parker imbues every dish with maximum flavour and shows true understanding in his careful balance of ingredients. This was all encapsulated in this superb dish, which was centred around an intense, excellent quality piece of hogget. The meat was enhanced by some large morels filled with a consummately seasoned mushroom cream, along with the grassy tones of the asparagus. Musky truffle and the richness of the sauce rounded off the dish’s flavour profile beautifully.”
Hazelnut, Banana, Caramel – Faru, Durham
“The main element of this finely crafted dessert was a hazelnut parfait, which was served at just the right temperature to deliver a creamy, velvety texture while retaining that delicious hazelnut flavour. It sat on a thin, sweet biscuit and slices of ripe banana in a light caramel, then topped with banana sorbet that was so smooth and nailed its flavour so well that even banana sceptics would be impressed. Golden raisin jelly, rum jelly and crunchy praline rounds completed the dish, while dark chocolate sprayed around the edges provided a neat, refined appearance.”
Seville Orange Marmalade Pudding, Drambuie Custard – 33 The Homend, Ledbury
“My eyes light up whenever I see a sponge pudding on a menu, so I was looking forward to this. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of its appearance; this moist, rich sponge was superb – brimming with Seville orange flavour and accompanied by a stunning, silky custard that carried just the right amount of the oft-overlooked Drambuie liqueur. This dish was proof, if we need it, that sometimes the simplest, most traditional desserts can be the best. A friend of mine remembers it fondly from a few years ago, which speaks volumes.”
