In the fifth edition of the Michelin Nordic Countries Guide, which was launched on February 19th 2018, Kadeau Copenhagen was promoted from One Star (which it had held since 2013) to Two Stars.
Kadeau’s location means that is easy to miss if you don’t know where it is, which gives it an air of exclusivity: look out for the plaque, ring the bell and wait for the heavy door to swing open.
First, you’ll be taken to the lounge to enjoy a welcoming bowl of broth, then you’ll be shown through to the cool, understated restaurant where you are warmly greeted by the chefs in the open kitchen. The softly lit room is a jewel of sleek Nordic design, and furs draped over the chairs add to the warm, comfortable feel.
One glance at the copper-filled kitchen and you’ll immediately start to understand the philosophy here – the surfaces are laden with jars containing various preserved and fermented ingredients and the wood-fired oven takes centre stage. It is clear the chefs have an innate understanding of how best to match fresh and aged produce, and while the cooking moves with the seasons, they use their experience in preserving and fermenting to showcase ingredients which have been harvested throughout the year.
Flavours are clean, fresh and stimulating, and there is a pleasing honesty to them too, with ingredients allowed to speak for themselves rather than being overawed by powerful sauces. Much of the produce originates from the restaurant’s own farm on Bornholm Island, to the southeast of Sweden, which is also home to their other Michelin Star restaurant, Kadeau Bornholm. This opens only in the summer months, when Kadeau Copenhagen closes down and the major players from the team travel back to the island to work at the Bornholm outpost instead.
With many of the team themselves hailing from Bornholm, there is a real sense of family here, and the deep-rooted relationships add a sense of calm to the kitchen and something special to the way in which the place is run. The surprise 21 course ‘journey’ really captures this spirit of the team and their homeland, and the charming, seemingly effortless service further adds to the experience – making the 3 hour event disappear in a flash.
For those after a slightly more casual dining experience, they have also opened up Nabo (‘neighbour’) right next door; a laid-back spot which is open from morning ‘til night and offers everything from a coffee to a 3 course meal. Once again you’ll find yourself surrounded by preserving jars, only this time you’ll be sitting on woven chairs pulled up to scrubbed wooden tables. Cooking is rustic and really hits the spot – and a dish containing herring really is a must.
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