Sichuan peppercorns – that breed of spice known for its unapologetic numbing mouthfeel has been lifted out of the confines of Chinese restaurants and become the latest playthings of innovative kitchens.
This unique ingredient is now used by chefs like Drew Nocente of Salted & Hung in a crispy tripe dish as a seasoning, in brioche and foie gras gataeu by Curate’s new resident chef Benjamin Halat and even in a chocolate lollipop petit four by way of Christophe Lerouy of Dstllry par Christophe Lerouy.
Its premise is deeply attractive: how does a chef interpret this ingredient in ways that harness and tame the properties of these peppercorns without veering into the fiery territory of Sichuan cuisine?
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This unique ingredient is now used by chefs like Drew Nocente of Salted & Hung in a crispy tripe dish as a seasoning, in brioche and foie gras gataeu by Curate’s new resident chef Benjamin Halat and even in a chocolate lollipop petit four by way of Christophe Lerouy of Dstllry par Christophe Lerouy.
Its premise is deeply attractive: how does a chef interpret this ingredient in ways that harness and tame the properties of these peppercorns without veering into the fiery territory of Sichuan cuisine?
From left: Benjamin Halat of Curate, Drew Nocente of Salted & Hung and Christophe Lerouy of Dstllry par Christophe Lerouy
The trick says Nocente, is in knowing how to manipulate its characteristics. “The numbness comes from the skin and not from the pepper itself,” he says. “So when you crush it down there are two different flavours.”
The other hidden flavour turns out to be a gentle heat.
“Sichuan peppercorns have a very distinct fragrance to it, very different from other peppercorns with slight lemony notes yet not as spicy,” says Lerouy. “[Since] chocolate with peppercorns always tastes great together, I decided to add a touch of fusion to this simple petite four and use sichuan peppercorns.”
Over at Curate, Halat finds that its flavour pairs well with port wine jelly and foie gras, savoured with a light brioche that's also laced with hints of Sichuan pepper. “If you smell port wine, you’ll smell the spices and a peppery taste,” he says. “I wanted to go for Sichuan pepper because it numbs your tongue a little bit, which goes very well with alcohol.”
The pepper also helps to cut through the fattiness of foie gras, he says.
The other hidden flavour turns out to be a gentle heat.
“Sichuan peppercorns have a very distinct fragrance to it, very different from other peppercorns with slight lemony notes yet not as spicy,” says Lerouy. “[Since] chocolate with peppercorns always tastes great together, I decided to add a touch of fusion to this simple petite four and use sichuan peppercorns.”
Over at Curate, Halat finds that its flavour pairs well with port wine jelly and foie gras, savoured with a light brioche that's also laced with hints of Sichuan pepper. “If you smell port wine, you’ll smell the spices and a peppery taste,” he says. “I wanted to go for Sichuan pepper because it numbs your tongue a little bit, which goes very well with alcohol.”
The pepper also helps to cut through the fattiness of foie gras, he says.
From left: Salted & Hung's tripe, Dstllry par Chrisophe Lerouy's chocolate lollipop and Curate's foie gras gateau.
All the chefs add that it’s not an ingredient to be trifled with. Too much and it might turn off diners who did not ask for a dish that could numb their taste receptors for the rest of the meal.
Still, when used in the right combinations, Nocente believes that it adds another element on the dish that people aren’t expecting.
“It’s a great ingredient,” he concludes. “More people should use it.”
Still, when used in the right combinations, Nocente believes that it adds another element on the dish that people aren’t expecting.
“It’s a great ingredient,” he concludes. “More people should use it.”
