MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

Named after the South Korean island that's renowned for its high quality pork, this corner "bar" aims to take that nation's comfort food and elevate it to sophisticated heights. As envisioned by Chef/owner Douglas Kim, the kitchen specializes in ramyun—not ramen. The dining space mixes old West Village charm with tidy minimalism for a casual, hip and convivial hangout. Pick your perch at one of the generously spaced tables, or (preferably) at the engaging counter where you can watch each dish come together. If that doesn't have your taste buds tingling, the kitchen's concise number of unique items at a steal of a price will hit the spot. Persian cucumber kimchi with a spicy plum dressing, shiso and sesame seeds is a culinary delight, while the mouthwatering aroma of pork bone broth that precedes the arrival of gochu ramyun brimming with curly noodles, bean sprouts and pickled cabbage is a veritable thesis on ace ingredients. Pyunche salad mingling sushi-grade amberjack dabbed with chimichurri and crunchy vegetables is a simple yet delicious wonder. Not far behind is the surprising toro ssam bap highlighting the eponymous fatty fish with scrambled egg, tobiko and toasted seaweed.