MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
At the hands of accomplished Chef Dominique Crenn, guests have rightly come to expect a thrilling meal at her singular atelier, replete with lustrous combinations, a keen understanding of flavors and an impeccable sense of grace. Another exclusive hallmark of dining here is the deeply hospitable and exemplary staff. They appear to virtually float in and out of the kitchen, which in turn prides itself on a sense of poetry expressed figuratively through dishes and quite literally via the actual poem composed by Chef Crenn to her father—it's even etched into marble and on full display. Original is the name of this culinary game—one that is as thoughtful in serving brioche with cultured butter as it is with caviar crowned by turbot gelée and gold leaf. Poached sea bass with black truffles then happily wins over the most discerning of palates. It is indeed possible to dine here and not see any meat, but it’s also never missed, thanks to the team's masterful hand with seafood. The cheese course is stellar, but Pastry Chef/partner Juan Contreras' desserts make for a novel finale. A faux-coconut shell coated in dark chocolate and filled with pineapple as well as coconut foam takes home the gold.