Dominique Crenn has a growing collection of firsts: first female chef in the U.S. to earn Three MICHELIN Stars (for Atelier Crenn); first U.S. chef to receive a MICHELIN Green Star; and most recently, first French chef to bring contemporary California cuisine, with its rich diversity of cultural influences, to Parisian diners via her recently opened Golden Poppy, inside the 9th arrondissement gem, La Fantaisie hotel.
The Versailles-born chef has spent the better part of the last three and a half decades honing her craft in the Golden State, where she witnessed the emergence of the farm-to-table movement and worked elbow-to-elbow with California kitchen legends like Jeremiah Tower and Alice Waters. Today, whether at Golden Poppy in Paris, or Atelier Crenn, Bar Crenn, or Petit Crenn in San Francisco, you can expect cuisine that’s deeply rooted in the surrounding nature.
When Crenn is in the City of Light, she and her partner, American actress Maria Bello, frequent some of the French chef’s favorite haunts. Here, she shares with MICHELIN her choice addresses for every mood.
Paris has no shortage of convivial bistros—which is your favorite for a dinner with friends?
Going to Stéphane Jégo’s restaurant L’Ami Jean reminds me a little of being in my grandmother’s house in Brittany; there’s a simplicity, a conviviality to the place. It’s also delicious – cooking that comes from the heart but is carefully considered at the same time. I have lots of friends from all over the world who love eating there.
On the other hand, grab-and-go spots are a newer addition to the Paris scene. What’s your top spot for a quick bite?
I really like Ten Belles here for coffee. Sometimes I order a salad and the breads are good, too. In fact, I love this kind of organic café that you find in France, where you can run into friends and have a quick chat over a coffee at the counter. It’s the antithesis of Starbucks.
After a busy day in the city, where do you head for a expertly stirred or shaken craft cocktail?
I discovered Combat a year ago thanks to a friend who lives in the neighborhood, and immediately fell in love with it. The bar doesn’t look like much from the outside, but the cocktails [by Margot Lecarpentier and her team of mixologists] are exceptional.
Let’s say you’re planning a casual weeknight dinner with a group of friends—any recommendations?
I love the creative everyday cooking at Bouche in the 11th. People talk about sharing plates as if it’s a recent trend, but I think it’s been around for a long time. You take one or two mouthfuls of a dish, you get to try lots of different things. It works really well.
What about a restaurant for when you’re looking for some international flavors?
Adeline at Yam’Tcha is amazing. Her cuisine is very well thought out, and both unique and creative. Let’s just say that her way of cooking speaks to me; I feel at home here. If you’re ever in Paris, you have to try Yam’Tcha.
Paris might be landlocked but it has some great seafood options. What’s your go-to?
L’Écailler du Bistrot takes me back to my Breton roots. I come here for the really good fish and the incredible oysters, preferably with a glass of Sancerre or Burgundy. I love natural wines; I often go to L’Étiquette on the Île Saint-Louis. In California, 80% of the wines aren’t organic or natural.
For those visiting the world’s most romantic city, where would you recommend staying for an unforgettable getaway?
L'Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, secluded in its garden, is incredibly romantic. I even thought about getting married there, which just goes to show.
Can you share a spot for tasty food and culture—two birds with one stone, or as the French say, 'faire d'une pierre deux coup'?
My partner (American actress Maria Bello) is crazy about Shakespeare and Company, and so am I. It has an incredible history. We love unearthing rare books, and occasionally tucking into a slice of cake, too.
Address book:
L’Ami Jean
27 Rue Malar, 75007
Ten Belles
17-19 Rue Bréguet, 75011
Combat
63 Rue de Belleville, 75019
Bouche
85 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011
Yam'Tcha
121 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
L’Écailler du Bistrot
22 Rue Paul Bert, 75011
Hôtel Particulier Montmartre
23 Avenue Junot, 75018
Shakespeare and Company
35 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005
Related articles:
