At the hands of accomplished Chef Dominique Crenn, guests have rightly come to expect a thrilling meal inside her singular atelier, replete with lustrous combinations, a keen understanding of flavors and an impeccable sense of grace. Another exclusive hallmark of dining here is the deeply hospitable and exemplary staff. They appear to float in and out of the kitchen, which in turn prides itself on a sense of poetry expressed figuratively through dishes and quite literally via the actual poem composed by Chef Crenn to her father—it's even etched into marble on display.
Original is the name of this culinary game—one that is as thoughtful in serving brioche with cultured butter as it is with caviar crowned by turbot gelée and gold leaf. Spiny lobster with dots of apple butter and a warm ginger-whey foam is a wondrous creation brimming with flavor and depth. Not far behind, tender abalone with smoked mussel sauce and cabbage is deliciously divine.
The cheese course is stellar, but Pastry Chef/partner Juan Contreras’ desserts make for a novel finale. His snowflake, subtly redolent of eucalyptus, is a delicate iced invention that is as much a conversation piece as it is confection.