MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Pleasant and homey with excellent modern Italian cooking, there is little wonder why this destination is always bustling. Book in advance and assume that the dining counter reserved for walk-ins is already overflowing for the night. The space itself is narrow with tightly packed wood tables and furnishings; it would seem cramped were it not for the soaring ceiling, skylights and open kitchen to brighten the mood. No matter where you look, the passion and enthusiasm for Italian specialties are palpable here—even contagious. From antipasti to dolci, celebrated Chef Matthew Accarrino’s extensive menu evolves with the seasons, yet remains as satisfying as it is impressive. Memorable and very creative pastas include the supremely rich linguine Alfredo with abalone liver, grated bottarga and the faintest hint of Meyer lemon. A degustazione of suckling pig arrives as six unique preparations, including medallions of succulent loin, slices of crisp-edged porchetta and a cool terrine with pops of mustard seed. Desserts feature the wonderfully sweet and tart flavors of thick and creamy maple panna cotta topped with wine-poached apple, a cloud of whipped cream and cookie crumble.