MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
It may be located next to Chef Dominique Crenn’s notable Atelier Crenn, but Bar Crenn is a destination in its own right. Designed with an eye on Paris during Les Années Folles with a splash of speakeasy, this room is a flea market-chic amalgam of cozy lounge furniture, glinting chandeliers and vintage accents. Fine silver, crystal, champagne and caviar complete the decadence. The wine list is presented as a gold-embossed book of wooden pages. The classic French cooking strives to recreate many of the century's great dishes through recipes on loan from culinary masters, such as Alain Ducasse and Paul Bocuse. The concise menu evolves with the seasons as it offers traditional cooking alongside some of Bar Crenn's own creations. Start with the rendition of Chef Guy Savoy's huîtres en nage glacée, with two Washington State oysters on the half shell topped with oyster cream and a gelée made from its liquor. Chef Pierre Troisgros is honored with perfectly poached king salmon in a pool of beurre blanc with a few wilted leaves of lemony sorrel for tang. Finish with this kitchen's own take on an exquisite apple tart, stacking thin slices of apples that almost melt into one another beneath a rich caramel sauce.