Winemaking in Valle de Guadalupe dates back centuries, but only recently has a wine renaissance emerged. At the same time, talented chefs are settling their restaurants right on the vineyard themselves.
As a newer state in Mexico, Baja California has less defined culinary traditions. With more of an open canvas for chefs to innovate, Valle de Guadalupe has come to offer some of Mexico’s most creative cuisine.
Equipped with fresh local ingredients, these five talented chefs have crafted deeply personal cuisine, while partnering closely with their home vineyards.
Damiana (One Star) at Viñedos de la Reina
Chef Esteban Lluis
Soulful melodies from traditional Mexican tríos románticos (romantic trios) hum in the background. Inside, there’s an art gallery and restored vintage furniture. Outside, golden rays of sunshine peek through the trees. The vineyard is mere steps away.
At Damiana, chef Esteban Lluis introduces a new tasting menu daily, featuring seasonal farm-to-table produce, seafood, and meats like duck, quail and lamb. “Everything is locally sourced, all of our ingredients are very seasonal driven. I always start with what's available,” explains Lluis. “We have very good communication, and friendship with local fishermen. The people that really care about the product.”
Originally from Mexicali, chef Lluis draws on his Mexican heritage and French training to build his menu. “Being from a Mexican family, food is very important, so there was always something in me that wanted to learn about cooking. Baja California, being one of the youngest states in Mexico, there's so much influence from all over the world, so that makes it more fun as well.”
Villa Torél (Bib Gourmand) at Bodegas de Santo Tomás
Chef Alfredo Villanueva
“My dream was to put it together with the love of my life, Denise [Theurel],” says chef Alfredo Villanueva. Named after her, Villa Torél shares their personal journey of family, tradition and travel.
The restaurant celebrates the organic local gardens of Baja. Villanueva says, “Each season gives us many beautiful surprises. We always seek to make delicious and friendly cuisine. Intrinsically, the [ingredients] are perfect.”
With the “free palate of creativity” that Baja offers, the self-taught chef serves carrots with duck jus, marinated horse mackerel, sticky rice with cured beef tongue, and pickled mussels with homemade sourdough. From the sea, he aims to source fish more humanely, such as through ikijime (stunning) techniques, which minimizes suffering and preserves flavor.
Located at Bodegas de Santo Tomás, the view is serene. “We try to make a restaurant without walls and to feel the natural, rural atmosphere. The sunsets are the very decoration of the place.” Rhythmic music completes the experience. “I choose the music I like to welcome you into my house. For me, sharing a playlist is as important as offering a great dish. It is another symbol of gratitude and love.”
Conchas De Piedra (One Star Green Star) at Casa de Piedra Vinícola
Deckman’s en el Mogor (Green Star) at Mogor Badan Winery
Chef Drew Deckman
Chef Drew Deckman was an early pioneer in using 100% Mexican wines in his restaurants.
Born and raised in the U.S. state of Georgia, he honed his craft in France, Germany, and Switzerland, before first gracing Mexico with his talent 20 years ago. His sustainability-focused approach is seen in all aspects of the restaurants, from the wood-fired grills (instead of gas) to the use of hay bales as moveable restaurant walls.
Conchas de Piedra focuses on shellfish and sparkling wine, while Deckman’s en el Mogor has a broader selection (try the oxheart tomatoes). The restaurants sit on Casa de Piedra and Mogor Badan, home of Mexican winemaking pioneers Hugo d’Acosta and Natalia Badan. With Mexico being famous for beer, tequila and mezcal, wine was more of a blank slate. Deckman explains, “It leads to incredible creativity, there's no rules. There are some amazing results to not having a boundary.”
Being right next to the winery, guests drink some of the best wines that can’t be found in stores. His wife Paulina explains, “You're drinking this wine that has been made in the vineyard that you're looking at. For me, it's magical.”
Malva at Viñedos Mina Penelope
Chef Roberto Alcocer
In California, Chef Roberto Alcocer has been celebrated for his One MICHELIN Star spot Valle, but his first restaurant was Malva in Mexico. He explains, “Valle is contemporary Mexican cuisine, and Malva is cocina Roberto Alcocer.” His deeply personal restaurant draws from his lived experience, from France to Spain, from Belgium to all across Mexico.
Set under traditional Mexican palapas (palm shelters), the rustic restaurant is open air with only one wall, which was painted with graffiti by his friends. The open kitchen delivers aromas of mango habanero and other fresh Baja ingredients, from quail to sweetbreads, rabbit to yellowtail. Foraging offers local edible wild plants, including menu staple malva itself – a delicious taste of Baja.
Malva was an early pioneer of restaurants in Valle de Guadalupe. Located at Viñedos Mina Penelope, the two complement each other: Mina Penelope provides the wine, and Malva generates compost to grow the vineyards. Alcocer says, “We have been sustainable since day one by having the farm there, being able to use the whole plant, from the root to the stem to the leaf to the flower to the fruit. We change the menu as soon as we run out of something.”
Bruma Wine Garden at Bruma Vinícola
Chef David Adrian Castro Hussong
Chef David Adrian Castro Hussong is the fifth generation in Valle de Guadalupe. In 1892, his great grandfather founded Hussong’s Cantina, the oldest cantina in Baja California. Inspired by the many chefs in his family, Castro made his mark at Three MICHELIN Star Eleven Madison Park, Two Star Green Star Blue Hill at Stone Barns, One Star Green Star Family Meal at Blue Hill, and Three Star Green Star noma.
Bringing what he learned back home, Castro’s first restaurant Fauna centers around Mexican cuisine, but he takes a “no rules” approach to Bruma Wine Garden, introducing dishes like truffle short rib and pork jowl pizza with Mexican chilies. Bruma also features plenty of desserts from his wife Maribel Aldaco Silva.
Cuban and Mexican music create an easygoing atmosphere for diners seated at long (recycled) wood tables, and an extensive selection of local wines complements the food. “We're underneath these beautiful 120 year old olive trees, and right in front of the restaurant is the vineyard. It doesn't get any better than that.”
Hero image: Bruma Wine Garden
