Travel 6 minutes 24 June 2024

3 Days in the Loire Valley, On the Trail of Châteaux

Looking for a break from the city grind? Not far from Paris, explore the most beautiful châteaux in the Loire Valley, along with its best restaurants and hotels.

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The enchanting châteaux of the Loire Valley are one of the world's unique phenomena. After all, the concentration of remarkable monuments in this region was one of the reasons why the Loire Valley was included on UNESCO's World Heritage List. Of course, it's impossible to visit all 3,000 or so châteaux in a weekend; which is why we've put together an itinerary that brings together what, for us, are the major must-sees, all within one handy itinerary.

If you're a keen cyclist, then the good news is that these stops are along the "Loire by Bike" route that follows the Loire river for about two-thirds of its length. "Loire by Bike" runs along the western section of "Eurovélo 6", the major European cycle route linking the Black Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. Most of the stages are open to the general public, and can be split at will. What's more, much of the route is on greenways, low-traffic roads, and safe, signposted cycle paths.

And because it would be impossible to talk about the Loire without mentioning its vineyards, we've also included a number of unmissable estates producing excellent wines.

Vue de Blois (© Alexandre Van Thuan / Unsplash)

Day 1

Morning

Arrive at Blois train station (1 hour 45 minutes direct from Paris), then drop off your luggage at Fleur de Loire. Recently awarded a MICHELIN Key, this sublime hotel nestled in a former 17th-century hospice majestically overlooks the river, opposite the Château Royal de Blois.

Featuring a Sisley spa with outdoor pool, the hotel boasts 33 rooms and 11 suites in contemporary tones of powder gray, white, and beige. The star of the show, however, is Chef Christophe Hay, whose eponymous restaurant boasts Two Stars in The MICHELIN Guide.

Located along the "Loire by Bike" route, the hotel provides electric bikes and family scooters, so you can easily head for the Château de Blois just a six-minute cycle away. Allow 90 minutes to visit this gem, one of the greatest masterpieces of the French Renaissance.

© Fleur de Loire · Hotel, Spa & Restaurants

Lunch

Rendezvous at One MICHELIN Star Assa in the heart of Blois. Chef Anthony Maubert worked for a long time alongside Arnaud Donckele (La Vague d'Or), while his wife Fumiko combines the talents of nutritionist and Pastry Chef. Indeed, her creations are strikingly light and low in added sugar. Every morning, the pair rewrite the day's menu together, using impeccable produce and a host of Japanese condiments and ingredients. Sansho berries, wild yuzu, nori seaweed broth, matcha tea, and azuki red bean paste all blend harmoniously with the work of small-scale Loire producers.

Afternoon

"An old town built in the shape of an amphitheatre." That's how Victor Hugo once described Vieux Blois. The fortified medieval town grew rich early on in its lifetime thanks to the river trade in wine and brandy. In 1498, King Louis XII made Blois the capital of his kingdom. It later became the residence of kings and queens, including the famous François I, until the death of Catherine de Médicis in 1589.

There is simply so much to explore in this gorgeous old town. At the foot of the château, discover the Romanesque church of Saint-Nicolas. Walk past the fountain on Place Louis XII, then climb the Denis Papin staircase for a breathtaking view of the city. Admire the majestic late-Gothic Saint-Louis Cathedral and its magnificent stained-glass windows. Below the town hall, stop off in the peaceful Jardin de l'Evêché; classified as a "remarkable garden" by the French Culture Ministry, this verdant setting boasts an impressive collection of rosebushes in a variety of hues.

In the 19th century, thanks to the rise of the railroads and the steam engine (invented by Blésois Denis Papin), the town became a major industrial hub. Today, some of the remains still bear witness to this triumphant era. Take the former Poulain chocolate factory, for example, founded by Auguste Poulain, a young confectioner from Blés, in 1848.

Statue of King Louis XII in an alcove on the façade of the Château Royal de Blois (© Bianca Fazacas / Unsplash)

Dinner (and a Well-Earned Rest)

It's now time to head back to the hotel. Rest assured: this evening, you won't have to go far to enjoy your dinner. Christophe Hay's delicious cuisine, boasting Two MICHELIN Stars (and a Green Star), makes a point of highlighting the finest produce from the Loire Valley: fish exclusively from the Loire, from Christophe's own fisherman; vegetables from his own kitchen garden or from local market gardeners; meat from his own Wagyu farm; and oscietra caviar from Sologne.

Day 2

Morning

20 minutes by car from downtown Blois, set down your luggage at the Relais de Chambord hotel, located within the Château de Chambord. Situated on the estate, the hotel faces the château itself, separated by a simple lawn and framed by a vast park with abundant flora and fauna. Its remarkable architecture was the inspiration for Disney's Beauty and the Beast, although the original construction was too sumptuous even for a fantasy tale.

In the 17th century, the building that Le Relais now occupies was nothing more than a canine dwelling where the king's hunting dogs were housed. Transformed since 2018 into a small luxury hotel, it boasts a fresh, light contemporary-style interior, plastered with a muted color palette and giant photographs depicting the castle's skyline.

You can rent a bike at the hotel to enjoy the 6km of the estate that forms part of the "Loire by Bike" route. In all, the domain has over 30km of bike paths; allow 2 hours for the whole tour.

The restaurant at Relais de Chambord © Relais de Chambord

Restaurant Les Hauts de Loire © Romain Ricard

Lunch

Take a well-deserved break at Le Grand Saint-Michel, the hotel's restaurant run by Chef Rita Silva. In fine weather, its terrace offers an unforgettable view of the legendary Château de Chambord. You'll enjoy carefully prepared bistronomic cuisine, with an emphasis on seasonal and local produce: roasted eggplant from the Chambord kitchen garden; veal breast confit, green bean salad with red berries and watercress; apricot and honey tart with yogurt sorbet.

Alternatively, opt for Le Rendez-vous des Gourmets down the road. Didier Doreau's warm, country-style Bib Gourmand restaurant honors Loire gastronomy with dishes such as pike terrine "à la Chambord" or small game pâté served warm with a jus reduction. In season, the chef's remarkable game dishes (hare, venison, wild boar) have earned his restaurant a lauded reputation in the area.

Château de Chambord (© Dorian Mongel / Unsplash)

Afternoon

Did you know that at Chambord, winemaker Henry Marionnet (owner of Domaine de la Charmoise, in Sologne) has revived the wine of King François I? Since 2015, he has overseen the production of the forgotten Château de Chambord vineyard, where 14 hectares of vines have been planted: pinot noir, sauvignon, orbois, and romorantin.

The latter, a white variety originally from Burgundy, is of great interest. The winemaker replanted shoots taken from his renowned plot of pre-phylloxera romorantin, one of the oldest vines in France (1850). It presents a unique opportunity to taste a pure expression of romorantin "franc de pied" wine, in the shadow of this spectacular Renaissance château.

Dinner

Nicolas Aubry, ex-Executive Chef of Christophe Hay's restaurant, is now flying solo at Ezia, his mentor's former home. This modern dining room offers a lovely view of the kitchen, with unique menus based on the seasons and local produce. The dishes are crafted to perfection, demonstrating a fine, subtle cuisine with a strong personality.

Alternatively, if you went for Le Rendez-vous des Gourmets earlier on, you can take the easy option and stay at Relais de Chambord to enjoy the cooking at Le Grand Saint-Michel. You won't have to walk far to get back to bed!

Day 3

Morning

Discover the Château de Cheverny, which should take around 90 minutes to explore. Located close to Chambord and Blois, it's the second most visited private château in the Loire Valley (after Chenonceau). It's also the most magnificently furnished! Famous for its richly decorated interiors and its collection of "objets d'art" and tapestries, this seigniorial property has belonged to the same family for over six centuries and is listed as a historic monument.

Classically styled, it was designed by Jacques Bougier, architect of part of the Château de Blois. What makes it special? Cheverny was built of "Bourré stone", a material native to a village in the Cher Valley, which whitens and hardens with age; hence the immaculate whiteness of the façades. The house also inspired Belgian cartoonist Hergé to create the fictional Château de Moulinsart. The Domaine de Cheverny and the Hergé Foundation have joined forces to set up a permanent exhibition of his work, open to the public, on the theme of Tintin, his most famous creation. The château is surrounded by English parkland and gardens covering almost 100 hectares, which you are welcome to stroll through.

Château de Cheverny (© Dorian Mongel / Unsplash)

Lunch

We recommend La Botte d'Asperges, a contemporary bistro in Contres, or La Croix Blanche, a Bib Gourmand restaurant in Veuves. In the latter, a former coaching inn, you'll delight in the contemporary cuisine of Chef Jean-François Beauduin, who trained at several MICHELIN-Starred restaurants. It's a real gourmet experience, with plenty of finesse showcased across the menu. Special mention must also go to the pleasant terrace in the shade of the mulberry trees.

Afternoon

Visit and taste the wines at Domaine de Montcy, including excellent Cour-Cheverny. Alternatively, make for Domaine des Huards, before moving on to Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire (allow 2 hours for the visit including the surrounding park).

Dinner

Head straight for Les Hauts de Loire or La Vieille Tour, both nearby. At the latter, a MICHELIN-Starred restaurant housed in an old tower of a 15th-century house, young chef Alexis Letellier treats his guests to well-crafted contemporary cuisine, made with good produce, tinged with a variety of Asian influences, and regularly reinvented with the seasons. His partner Alice is a great advisor when it comes to the wine selection. Otherwise, the restaurant Le Bois des Chambres is another safe bet. And it also has the advantage of being a hotel where you can spend your final night!

Address Book

Blois

Ancienne chocolaterie Poulain (usine de la Villette, ou Poulainville): Rue de la Chocolaterie, 41000, Blois
Cathédrale Saint-Louis: Place Saint-Louis, 41000 Blois
Château royal de Blois: 6 Pl. du Château, 41000 Blois
Eglise Saint-Nicolas: Rue Saint-Laumer, 41000 Blois
Escalier Denis Papin: 17 Rue Haute, 41000 Blois
Fontaine de la place Louis XII: 3 Pl. Louis XII, 41000 Blois
Hôtel, Spa et Restaurants Fleur de Loire (Christophe Hay): 26 Quai Villebois Mareuil, 41000 Blois
Jardins de l’Evêché: 3 Ter Rue du Haut Bourg, 41000 Blois (accolés à l’Hôtel de Ville)

Chambord

Château et parc de Chambord : Domaine national de Chambord, 41250 Chambord
Domaine Marionnet Henry - Domaine de la Charmoise : La Charmoise, 41230 Soings-en-Sologne

Cheverny et Chaumont-sur-Loire

Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire : 41150 Chaumont-sur-Loire
Château de Cheverny : Av. du Château, 41700 Cheverny
Domaine de Montcy : 22 Rte de Cheverny, 41120 Cormeray
Domaine des Huards : 30 VC des Huards, 41700 Cour-Cheverny

Château de Chaumont (© AXP Photography / Unsplash)

And if you stay a few days longer...

Don't miss Château de Chenonceau and its neighbor, Château d'Azay-le-Rideau (a 40-minute drive from each other). Other old gems worth a visit are Château d'Angers and Château de Brissac (19 minutes' drive away). Finally, these two other delights, about an hour part: Château de Villandry and Château de Valençay.