The Heart of Atlanta Dining: 5 Chefs, 1 City

Brian So of Spring (One MICHELIN Star)

Brian So grew up across metro Atlanta, from Riverdale to Kennesaw, experiencing a broad range of cuisines. From Korean to Laotian, country cooking to soul food, he tasted firsthand what it meant to live in Georgia. As a kid, he experimented with ingredients from his dad’s grocery store, and then as an adult, he made his way to top kitchens like Eleven Madison Park (Three MICHELIN Stars) in New York and Benu (Three MICHELIN Stars) in San Francisco. Returning to Atlanta, he opened Spring completely on his own with a SBA loan.

Why Atlanta? What brought you, and what’s kept you?

I grew up in the area. Family circumstances brought me back in 2012. Since I've been back, I'm very happy. The restaurant scene has really grown. When I was first here, it was the huge Southern wave, which was great, because it gave me a connection point to going to the farmer’s market. I'm glad to see now that it's more the standard.

What makes the Atlanta dining scene special?

It’s a very inviting place for young cooks to have support and do things on their own, whether that's a pop-up or opening up a small restaurant. In a lot of cities, that’s unachievable. It's possible in Atlanta. The restaurant community and the camaraderie are the most beautiful thing. A restaurant closed on Sunday and Monday will let someone else run a pop-up out of there.

What does Spring add to the Atlanta dining scene?

I believe we're the only MICHELIN-Starred restaurant in Atlanta that doesn't serve a tasting menu [at all]. You can create your own experience. We're probably the most affordable Starred restaurant in Atlanta right now – maybe a little bit more approachable.

Hopefully, it shows younger cooks that you don't have to go this tasting menu route. You don't have to go super luxury. I hope that that can be a model for someone who's deciding to open a restaurant without a ton of capital. It really is just about the food and the service.

How does being in Atlanta impact Spring or your approach to cooking?

The most obvious one is ingredient choices. Most of our produce is grown in Georgia. I'm not really concerned with ultra fine dining as it relates to opulence. I really fit into what Atlanta and Marietta clientele expect out of a restaurant for Spring. We just want to be a restaurant that the average person here just thinks of as a restaurant.

What’s your signature dish?

One dish consistently on the menu is our chicken liver and foie gras parfait. The set changes a little bit with the seasons. For me, it’s all about the shokupan bread, which we make in-house.

Spring in one or a few words?

Simple. Everything is simple. Our menu is simple. We have eleven menu items at all times. We don't venture too far out of classic cooking. We're just trying to cook at a very high level, very simply.

Atlanta in one or a few words?

Enthusiastic. People are very excited to try new foods, whether that's a MICHELIN-Starred fine dining restaurant or even venturing out into Duluth or Buford Highway and eating more ethnic foods. I see people really obsessed with food.

Where’s your favorite place to visit in Atlanta?

I go to Talat Market the most out of any place. Parnass does a really great job. For a sit-down, full service, really nice restaurant, The Chastain is usually my first choice.

What’s next?

Spring will undergo a remodel and have a cocktail program. And, we're opening up a new Korean restaurant.

Read More: Daniel Crawford of Spring is The MICHELIN Guide Atlanta 2024 Service Award Winner

Erika Council of Bomb Biscuit Co. (Bib Gourmand)

Originally working in tech, Erika Council couldn’t keep her mind off of her grandma’s delicious biscuits. Inspired by her grandparents who served delicious food to restaurant diners and churchgoers, she made that her new mission. The result? Unbelievably delicious biscuits that are hand-rolled and baked fresh every day

Why Atlanta? What brought you, and what’s kept you?

When I first came here, I was working in IT finance, coming from Charlotte to Atlanta, just me and my daughter...I got divorced and got a fresh start. I got married again, kid in school, had another child, and was working a good job. I stayed here and built a good base of friends and family. Been here ever since…16 years.

What makes the Atlanta dining scene special?

When I first started all this, the support for very local, pop-up chefs and organically growing your business. A lot of the really popular restaurants like Little Bear, we all kind of started from the kindness and generosity of the restaurant owners who let us pop up in their space. It builds a type of camaraderie and relationship amongt the chefs and an organically grown connection with your customers. It’s very Atlanta.

What does Bomb Biscuit Co. add to the Atlanta dining scene?

A “we're all family connection” with the customers. I'm still here, you can still see me. For the biscuits, I really am trying to keep it without compromising. We're making everything from scratch every single day using fresh buttermilk butter. This is not something we’re pulling out of the freezer. They’re hand-rolled biscuits. I want to stay true to that.

How does being in Atlanta impact Bomb Biscuit Co. or your approach to cooking?

The sense of community and camaraderie has definitely had a huge impact.

What’s your signature dish?

The biscuit. Cheddar japaleño. Chocolate chip — we just did a collaboration with Van Leeuwen Ice Cream. For sandwiches, lemon pepper and hot honey fried chicken is really where it’s at.

Bomb Biscuit Co. in one or a few words?

Comfort. I want to keep that home feel. I want it to feel like you walked into your grandma's house, she's got all these knickknacks and pictures on the wall. The servers sometimes take too long, telling you their life story.

Atlanta in one or a few words?

Changing. But you still have your community.

Where’s your favorite place to visit in Atlanta?

For breakfast, I love Home Grown. For pastries, The Little Tart. For nighttime beautiful spots, Southern National and Kimball House. I could go there every day if I could afford it. I also love Little Bear. He’s been inventive from the very start and hasn’t lost that. I love to see people still keeping it real.

What’s next?

Bringing back the first Friday fish fry. Growing up, they were very big during the civil rights [movement] at church. My granddaddy would go catch the fish and then fry outside and serve it with hushpuppies, coleslaw and a piece of white bread. And we're looking at a second location. My grandmother had a restaurant for 50 years, and she never opened a second spot.

Read More: From Bytes To Biscuits

Jared Hucks of The Alden

Chef Jared Hucks grew up in Atlanta, but spent almost two decades training in MICHELIN-Starred kitchens around the world. Bringing what he learned from restaurants like Arzak (Three MICHELIN Stars) in Spain and noma (Three MICHELIN Stars) in Copenhagen, Hucks delivers a locally grown, globally inspired, distinctly American menu to Atlanta diners, just minutes away from where he was raised.

Why Atlanta? What brought you, and what’s kept you?

I grew up in Atlanta. I live in my childhood home in Brookhaven. I left here when I was 18. Eighteen years later, I decided to come back here because I hadn't been around for my parents, and I had reunited with my high school sweetheart, who is now my wife, and we have a three-and-a-half-year-old daughter. I decided that it was time for me to do something on my own. I thought Atlanta would be a great place for me to do it. It’s a blessing.

What makes the Atlanta dining scene special?

Atlanta is a gold mine of culture and cuisine. We have people from all over, and that's how I grew up in this Buford Highway area. I was eating noodles and kimchi at an early age. Atlanta has attracted a lot of talent over the years and continues to become more special. And then the element of Southern hospitality – this a very friendly place.

What does The Alden add to the Atlanta dining scene?

My idea is to have a casual space with elevated, worldly cuisine. I have many years of experience in kitchens around the world and brought my knowledge back to my hometown. We use a lot of different ingredients that aren't normally circulating through Western kitchens.

How does being in Atlanta impact The Alden or your approach to cooking?

There's a lot of talent in Atlanta, and it's inspiring to be a part of such a strong culinary community. Also, the geographical makeup of the city and the surrounding farms. There’s great agriculture in Georgia – accessibility to great produce and proteins. We have four distinct seasons here in Georgia. Atlanta benefits from those seasonal, local ingredients, and that shapes who we are.

What’s your signature dish?

Through the seasons, the menu is a constant evolution. We embrace seasonal ingredients. This summer, the most exciting dish would be our honey garlic glaze yakitori pork belly with Indian bitter melon, cucumber, shisho and mizuna. It's a cracking dish. Good representation of what we do. It's American food. Delicate, not forced. Traditional French meets modern techniques to create something that's really simple and delicious. Visually stunning.

How would you describe The Alden in one or a few words?

Something we focused on from the beginning is accessible elegance. “The Alden” in Old English means old friend or friend to all. Our space is about the convivial feeling of being amongst old friends. It's a casual space that celebrates local ingredients with an elevated cuisine. Fine and artful food, more accessible to the broader demographic.

How about Atlanta in one or a few words?

Atlanta is my hometown. I embrace that. For me, it's a place of nostalgia. I've been to so many places in the world, and Atlanta is a friendly place that's very diverse and full of talent.

Where’s your favorite place to visit in Atlanta?

I love Virginia-Highland. I feel like that embraces what Atlanta is. It's an old school neighborhood with the city vibe, but it's laid back. It sits still in time and embraces the greenery with the Southern hospitable vibe. Riding my bike around, visiting shops and restaurants. Riding through Piedmont Park, throwing the frisbee.

What’s next?

The Alden is a place of evolution. We'll continue to evolve as an inclusive restaurant that serves and reaches as much of the community as possible, creating treasured memories.

Read More: Inside Mujō—MICHELIN Star Sushi with a Southern Spin

Mia Oriño of Kamayan ATL

Growing up in the Philippines, Chef Mia Oriño’s mother would cook delicious meals for her, made with boundless love. It wasn’t until many decades later that Mia decided to become a professional chef, so that she could hold on to her mother’s memory. Reconnecting with her lifelong friend Carlo Gan, the self-taught chef opened Kamayan ATL, pioneering Filipino cuisine in Atlanta.

Why Atlanta? What brought you, and what’s kept you?

Love made me move here. Carlo and I met when we were 12 and 13 years old. We were lifelong friends. Life changes. I ended up in Washington, D.C., and Carlo ended up in Georgia, a single dad with three kids. When the stars finally aligned back in 2017, I visited, and he said there was no Filipino restaurant. So, he cooked something amazing for me. I had no intention of moving here, but then, I was flying back and forth, and I started cooking.

What makes the Atlanta dining scene special?

Don't underestimate the people of Atlanta, the people of Georgia. Not very many people know Filipino cuisine. I'm so happy that Atlanta is somewhere where people would eat chicken feet or blood stew. This food is who we are – it’s part of our identity. We’re sharing our hearts. I’m about to ugly cry.

How does being in Atlanta impact Kamayan ATL or your approach to cooking?

Atlanta welcomes everyone. Knowing how Atlantans eat, I don’t hold back. We’ve done chicken intestines and we’ve done balut (fertilized duke egg embryo). The pop-up scene in Atlanta is so vibrant, and there’s so much support from other chefs like Jiyeon Lee of Heirloom Market BBQ. It has impacted my confidence in cooking. Carlo and I have never worked in a commercial kitchen, but passion can move mountains.

What does Kamayan ATL add to the Atlanta dining scene?

There was no Filipino restaurant in Atlanta in 2017, and I was upset that there was no Filipino representation here in Georgia. I had a first pop-up in Kennesaw, and they thought we were Mexicans. We are sharing our culture, and food is always the easiest way to share who you are. They understand more when they’re eating yummy food.

What’s your signature dish?

Eggplant curry. Whether you're a vegan or a meat eater, it’s always our best seller. In my hometown of Bicol, my mom would ask me to cut the eggplant and squeeze the coconut as chores. It reminds me of her.

Kamayan ATL in one or a few words?

Love. It started because of love. Carlo would look at me, and I would see the 12-year-old Carlo rooting for me. It was a time when I was grieving for my mom. The cooking helped me. Love kept me going.

Atlanta in one or a few words?

Warm. It’s not Hot-lanta. It’s Warm-lanta. It’s like a hug. So much warmth.

Where’s your favorite place to visit in Atlanta?

I love visiting the several community farmers markets in Atlanta, especially the ones where minority, immigrant and refugee farmers participate. They’re genuinely curious what kinds of herbs and produce I need. They’re like, “challenge accepted!” Some have grown moringa, purple yam and they thrive! It can be done [in Georgia].

What’s next?

We wanted to reach as many people as possible, so we will have a cloud kitchen in town close to Miller Union. We’re doing donations. For every bowl that you get, we donate here and in the Philippines. It’s going to be for all of the Georgia Tech and Georgia State students who are hungry. From your auntie, I want to feed those kids trying to study and lunch workers who don’t have time to drive.

Read More: Atlanta by Talat Market's Parnass Savang

Bruce Logue of BoccaLupo

With Atlanta roots, Bruce Logue has always had a special connection to the city. As life would have it, he found his way back to Georgia and opened a restaurant near the Beltline, long before it became the icon that it is today. He laid the groundwork for the area, with casual and comforting recipes that are distinctly Italian-American with a warm Southern spin.

Why Atlanta? What brought you, and what’s kept you?

I was born here, have family here, but didn't grow up here. I always visited family over the years. My wife got a job here in 2007, so we came back, and we're still here. Things have gone well.

What makes the Atlanta dining scene special?

Atlanta is in a boom right now. The food, entertainment and culture rise up with that. Now you see tons of chef-driven stuff. For a long time, Atlanta was known for farm-to-table refined Southern cuisine, which is awesome. Now, there’s an international side to it, and they’re really good. Atlanta is becoming this hub.

What does BoccaLupo add to the Atlanta dining scene?

We were really early on the Beltline, before the Beltline was built. We got that space in 2013. We're still a neighborhood restaurant at the end of the day. You can still come in early, sit at the bar, get a pasta, get an affordable glass of wine. Or you can come in and have a tasting menu and do the whole thing.

How does being in Atlanta impact BoccaLupo or your approach to cooking?

When I lived in New York, a lot of chefs early on in their career felt so small and insignificant. There's this incredible, huge world of cuisine that's been there forever. It is just ingrained, and you're just scratching the surface. It's really humbling.

In Atlanta, people are just different. It’s more friendly, more supportive, more laid back. The standards are becoming higher here, but people are very supportive, very community-oriented. We all feel very lucky that Atlanta is being taken seriously as a food city now.

What’s your signature dish?

The black spaghetti with Calabrese sausage and rock shrimp keeps the lights on. We've done that since day one, and nothing about the recipe has really changed. It’s still a front runner in sales.

BoccaLupo in one or a few words?

Italian-American. I'm inspired by ingredients and techniques. That drives me, because I don't have that lineage back to my family's origins. So BoccaLupo is a creative interpretation of what Italian-American food is. Straddling the line between, what would Americans eat that have that Italian influence? I’m building on that side of it respectfully.

Atlanta in one or a few words?

Booming. We've got the World Cup coming, MLB All-Stars and all the businesses. It's booming in every facet.

Where’s your favorite place to visit in Atlanta?

I have kids, so we don't get out a ton. Everywhere I go, I’m always surprised, like “this is so cool that this is happening here” and "this is such a great little area.”

What’s next?

I'd love to open another restaurant, but it's time to hand BoccaLupo over to someone that's capable of taking it forward, like all the great restaurants in New York. They take it somewhere different, somewhere further, through that next phase.

Hero image: Collage - Claire Collar / Brian So, Andrew Thomas Lee / Erika Council, Heidi Harris / Jared Hucks, Kamayan ATL / Mia Oriño & BoccaLupo / Bruce Logue