Taiwan is easily explored by train. Take in the scenery of languid seashores and pastoral landscapes to the soundtrack of clanging rails as the train takes you all over cities and towns from north to south and from west to east. Disembark at your desired station and hop on a bicycle — public bicycles are available, or check in your own on the train — to leisurely explore the country roads and winding alleys chock full of surprises.
Exploring Taiwan by Rail and Bike
The best way to discover the local delicacies of the four cities covered by the MICHELIN Guide Taiwan is by rail and bike. You can even prepare some simple fare for the journey and enjoy it any time on the train, or when you need a break from riding. Try this recipe for an Avocado Macro Bowl — by chef Tim Hsu of Bib Gourmand and MICHELIN Green Star restaurant Little Tree Food — which is easy to make, take on-the-go, and highly nutritious to boot.
We begin our journey in Taipei. The city is now home to 13 MICHELIN-recommended hotels that range from international chains to boutique hotels and hot spring accommodations. For convenient access to the railway, Palais de Chine is connected to the Taipei Main Station, at the intersection of three railway lines. East-meets-West at the chic Palais de Chine, home as well to the only three-MICHELIN-star restaurant in Taiwan, Le Palais.
From Taipei, take the train to the Taichung Railway Station for a meal of meatballs at Bib Gourmand establishment Taichung Meatball. Established in 1993, the eatery is known for its no-frills but delicious meatball, fish ball soup, and glass noodle soup. Leave some room for the deep-fried pork ribs rice at Chin Chih Yuan (Central), another Bib Gourmand eatery nearby. For a change from local cuisine, Bib Gourmand Hello VietNam near ASEAN Plaza offers North Vietnamese cuisine. The signature rice noodle platter is served with pork knuckle, blood sausage, and fried tofu with fermented shrimp paste or a refreshing fish sauce dip.
After you’ve had your fill, explore Taichung by bicycle. Taiwan Railways offers a variety of plans for traveling with bicycles, or you can rent public bicycles in Taichung. Each bicycle trail in Taichung has its own highlights and attractions. For example, the Hanxi Riverside Bikeway runs from the north to the south of Taichung, offering panoramic views of the city, while the Dongfeng Bicycle Green Way has beautiful green corridors and connects all the way to the Dongshi Forestry Culture Park.
To rest for the night, choose from any of the three MICHELIN-recommended hotels in Taichung. The RedDot Hotel in the Central District is a design-forward boutique hotel converted from the historic Galaxy hotel that was completed in 1979. The most eye-catching feature is the two-story-high tube slide in the lobby, surrounded by art and furniture designed by local artists. Conveniently, the hotel also provides a free three-hour bicycle rental service for its guests.
Advance to the Old Capital
From Taichung, take the train to Tainan, known as the old capital. As the earliest established city in Taiwan, Tainan is celebrated for its rich history and cultural customs, including an abundance of famous snacks and traditional dishes that have been passed down for generations.
Strolling through the old town, you can taste Tainan’s most famous snacks at every corner: Bib Gourmand-rated Lo Cheng Migao is a stone’s throw away from popular attractions like the Chikan Tower, Tainan Park, as well as the Tainan County Magistrate Residence, where one can get a taste of its signature sticky rice topped with braised pork, sliced cucumber, fish floss, and peanuts. Bib Gourmand recommended Small Park Danzai Noodles in the Central Western District is a 70-year-old stalwart hawking soup noodles with an unforgettable taste of tradition.
Not far away, Bib Gourmand restaurant Amei has a long history serving up Taiwanese banquet dishes and nostalgic classics. The restaurant’s signature duck casserole is not to be missed. Two-and-a-half catties of Chinese cabbage are stewed in pork bone broth until soft and tender, and then, a whole duck is added and boiled for three hours. The dish is finished with garlic, flat fish and fried shallots.
Public bicycles can also be rented in Tainan, and these “iron horses” can easily roam the narrow alleys of the old capital. If you want to experience a different side of Tainan, take a ride along the designated bicycle paths along Tainan’s riverbank or coast, and enjoy the views of green fields, seashores, historic sites, and pristine waters with the wind in your hair.
Explore Kaohsiung
You could take on the challenge of riding a bicycle all the way from Tainan to Kaohsiung, or simply hop on the train again and head south comfortably. The red and orange Kaohsiung MRT lines allow for bicycles on board, while the city itself is well-connected by bicycle lanes. Along the MRT lines are several eateries recommended by the MICHELIN Guide, including Bib Gourmand-rated Ciao Zai Tou Huang's Braised Pork Rice at Ciaotou Sugar Refinery Station and Duck Zhen at Yanchengpu Station. The former is famed for its southern Taiwanese-style minced pork rice made by hand-dicing pork shoulder and belly meat, while the latter’s signature smoked duck is a local delicacy not to be missed.
It’s not all street food in Kaohsiung, either. The MICHELIN Guide also included two restaurants in its Star Selection last year, so remember to save the best for last. One-MICHELIN-starred Sho is the first overseas outpost of Tokyo’s famed restaurant Den. Here, chef Fujimoto Shoichi uses local ingredients to create a dynamic gastronomic journey. His signatures include a green salad made with more than 10 types of vegetables that have been fried, steamed, ground, or pickled, as well as kamameshi featuring local, seasonal produce. Meanwhile, at another one-star restaurant, Liberté, chef Kenji Takeda combines his French training and Japanese heritage with local flavors, creating a series of dishes with a distinctively personal style.
There are currently three MICHELIN-recommended hotels in Kaohsiung, including the InterContinental Kaohsiung, a luxury hotel that focuses on sustainability, from its construction to everyday energy use; the elegant and understated Silks Club; as well as Hotel Dùa, which offers a local design flair and delicious food options. Each accommodation option is an experience on its own, and after a full rest, you will be charged up to dive right back into exploring the wonders of Taiwan.
Banner image provided by the Tourism Bureau, M.O.T.C.
This article has been translated by Rachel Tan. Read the original article in Chinese here.
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