The combination sounds straightforward on paper: A thin, translucent yet stretchy skin of run bing (Popiah) envelopes fine shavings of malt sugar peanut brittle – grated to order from an impressively large block – two scoops of velvety ice cream and a spring of coriander. But peanut ice cream roll certainly packs a punch. A bite into the deftly folded parcel reveals sweet, savory and citrusy flavors, as well as icy and powdery mouthfeels that keep your taste buds wanting for more.
It is usually associated with the streets of Yilan, and there has been speculation that it was invented by Japanese people while they ruled Taiwan (1895-1945). Yet, the true origin of peanut ice cream roll remains a mystery. It matters little to night market goers anyway, as they have embraced the snack for decades. At points, it was even served at state banquets to key political figures from abroad.
Both its simplicity and complexity demonstrate the essence of Taiwanese cuisine, where every humble ingredient is treated with utmost care.
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Take run bing skin as an example. Made with flour, water and salt, one might consider it only the vessel that holds everything together, not knowing how much skill and experience the cooking process requires. First, the dough needs to be mixed rigorously to ensure its elasticity. Then it is rubbed on the griddle and cooked for just enough time, so that the crepe comes out thin and soft.
Highly rated vendors prepare the wrapper from scratch every day. Every one of them tweaks the formula slightly to achieve their desired thickness. Wu Wang Tsai Chi, a Bib Gourmand establishment that is based at Nanjichang Night Market in Taipei, is well-known for a thicker crepe that minimizes the risk of the roll falling apart and contributes to a richer tasting experience.
For several years, one-MICHELIN starred and green star Taiwanese restaurant Mountain and Sea House has organized a “run bing feast” during Ching Ming Festival in April. From ingredient sourcing to serving ware to drink pairing, no detail is too small to executive chef Leo Tsai. Regarding run bing skin, he said the recipe was developed in house for dishes such as flat fish spring roll.
“The run bing skin we use is bouncier. It also doesn’t crack so easily, meaning it’s less likely to break when it’s filled up,” Tsai said.
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As for the ice cream that goes into the roll, taro is the most popular flavor, followed by pineapple and plum, while more inventive tastes such as roasted tea, tiramisu as well as sea salt and lemon bring new possibilities to the snack.
If you order a peanut ice cream roll from a traditional vendor, chances are you would get scoops of “babu” in the filling instead of American style ice cream. Babu is a long-established ice dessert in Taiwan that eschews dairy products and emulsification. Rather, it is prepared by heating fresh ingredients with sugar before powdered starch (like tapioca) is added to make the mixture stickier. After flash freezing, babu has a dense consistency that has become the defining feature of peanut ice cream roll in the minds of many Taiwanese. Furthermore, it melts more slowly.
Local wisdom can also be observed in the sweet peanut dust. Taiwanese developed a grating plane specifically for the brick-like brittle. Hoping to pass this traditional craft onto the next generations, Hualien-based Yang Jane Handtool shares the primary characteristics of its design on the company website. The lengthened blade and larger container can help prevent sticking and catch more shavings in one go.
The final member in the ensemble, coriander’s refreshing notes bring welcome balance to the sweetness of the peanut brittle dust and ice cream. It is adopted in many cuisines around the world and for a while, ice cream, potato chips, sake and hotpot in Japan were all imbued with the distinctive aroma of the herb to appeal to the country’s health-conscious women. But in Taiwan, coriander is more than just a fad. Ba-wan (sweet potato starch dumpling), pig’s blood cake, meatball soup and misua (wheat vermicelli) are some of the traditional street foods in which it plays a significant role.
An edible tapestry of delectable ingredients, culinary ingenuity and time-honored craftsmanship, peanut ice cream roll’s value goes beyond its great flavor. There is something pure and heartfelt in it that encapsulates what Taiwanese snacks are.
RELATED: Ingredient: Coriander
Taipei’s Three-MICHELIN-starred restaurant Taïrroir has launched a time-limited “Kaïsa” menu to celebrate its eighth anniversary. A stylized form of “Kai’s casa”, chef Kai Ho wants guests to feel like they are invited to his home for a dinner. He drafted up dishes that exemplify his expertise in Chinese cooking, profound understanding of Taiwan’s landscape and culinary customs, as well as immense creativity.
Peanut ice cream roll served as his muse for the dessert course: pickled plum and taro ice cream is topped with coriander mousse, slices of peanut brittle, chilled candied taro and run bing cracker, the latter a creative take of the traditional elastic wrapper. The modernized presentation gives diners a new perspective to experience one of Taiwan’s most iconic flavor combinations, and its passion for handiwork.
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This article was written by The MICHELIN Guide and translated by Vincent Leung. Read the original article here.
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