Stepping into One-MICHELIN Starred the FRONT HOUSE, guests are welcomed by warm apricot tones, softly curved pendant lights and a logo depicting a bowing figure of service — details that embody Chef-owner Chung Ho Tsai and restaurant manager and sommelier Kiky Chen’s dedication to guest experience. Yet the clearest expression of their philosophy is found in the restaurant’s very name: the FRONT HOUSE.
Accepting The MICHELIN Guide Service Award, Chen credited her colleagues for the accolade. “This is not only an honor, but also a responsibility filled with warmth,” she says. “I feel fortunate to work alongside such a professional and caring team — this recognition belongs to all of us.”
Service in hospitality is both a demanding profession and an art form. Presenting the award, Heng Leong Hang Chairman Jay Chen emphasized that it celebrates not just technical mastery but a human-centered spirit. “Truly outstanding service creates unforgettable experiences without calling attention to itself. It infuses the dining journey with soul, allowing guests to feel both cared for and warmly welcomed,” he says.
The art of thoughtful service
When sharing her service philosophy, Chen explains: “Service must be attentive; you must anticipate needs without intruding — leaving guests at ease.” This balance reflects not only her two decades of experience in hospitality, beginning with her studies in restaurant management, but also her years serving high-net-worth clients in banking, where reading the room and maintaining the right atmosphere were crucial.
For instance, in traditional service, cutlery is placed and cleared from the guest’s right side. Yet when Chen senses that diners are deep in business discussions or sharing an intimate moment, she avoids interrupting their flow. Instead, she adapts by approaching from the outer side of the table, prioritizing the guests’ connection over rigid convention.
She applies the same flexibility when assigning staff. For example, if a private room is celebrating a birthday, Chen may pair the room with a naturally livelier server who can keep the mood joyful — offering witty interactions, helping with photos and ensuring the celebratory spirit remains high.
At the FRONT HOUSE, Chen also serves as sommelier, making thoughtful beverage service central to the dining experience. She curates pairings with care: when the menu transitions from chilled appetizers to warm main courses, she might introduce a Japanese sake such as namazake (unpasteurized and fruit-forward) made with the kimoto method, a traditional, labor-intensive starter technique that lends an earthy depth and layered acidity that lifts the flavors of seafood mains.
She also masters the pacing of service. When guests bring their own valued vintages, Chen ensures they are enjoyed at their peak, beginning the meal with sparkling wine or non-alcoholic drinks on the house to set the tempo — so that by the time the main course arrives, the bottle the guests bring can truly shine.
Perfect harmony between front and back
Chen's collaboration with Tsai began at STAGE 5 in the National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts (Weiwuying), where she worked as restaurant manager and he worked as the chef. Years of hands-on experience have since shaped her approach, and today she works in perfect sync with Tsai at the FRONT HOUSE.
When tensions arise between front and back of house, Chen naturally steps in as mediator. Even if dietary preferences or allergies are mentioned only after seating, she takes the lead in communicating with the kitchen. “No one else dares to speak up at that moment,” she says with a laugh. Timing is crucial — changing a dish mid-service can disrupt the kitchen’s rhythm — yet she strives to minimize the impact while making sure guests’ needs are respected.
“As front-of-house staff, it’s natural to think more for the guests,” she adds. She knows that many diners visit for meaningful occasions, so she embraces opportunities to elevate the experience. Even in high-pressure moments — such as walk-in guests insisting on a table without a reservation — she upholds the restaurant’s principles while offering her personal contact for future bookings, ensuring guests feel cared for.
Seamless communication and coordinated timing between front and back are the foundation of the restaurant’s smooth operation. Chen and Tsai are not only professional partners but also life partners, giving them a deep, shared understanding of professional standards. “The FRONT HOUSE values front-of-house service,” Chen says. This support gives her the confidence to advocate for guests while respecting the chef’s work, making her role both natural and smooth.
“When we wear this uniform, we speak through our professional roles. Once we change into home clothes after work, that doesn’t carry over,” she says with a smile. After hours, the couple enjoys simple late-night meals at home, quietly recharging for the day ahead.
Continuing forward and keeping the passion alive
Receiving the award, Chen warmly addresses her peers: “I hope everyone in the industry continues working together so that more people can enjoy and fall in love with this wonderful profession.” At a time when labor shortages are common and professional talent is scarce, she gently reminds her colleagues to protect and cherish their passion.
For herself, Chen makes it a point to recharge, connect with peers, and “turn everyday life into a story.” She knows that not every day in a restaurant is met with applause, but by finding small moments of joy, she rediscovers why she chooses to stay in this line of work. “Like yesterday, sharing a meal with an important mentor — who is also a guest at the FRONT HOUSE — and being warmly hosted. It felt truly wonderful.” These shining details, she says, reinforce her bond with the profession.
Nourished by the rhythms of daily work and giving back through it, Chen looks ahead with unwavering dedication, attentive to guests’ needs, ensuring that sincere service continues to spark joy and keeps the true spirit of hospitality alive.
