Compared to its acclaimed island, Ko Lipe, Satun as a province may not have received as much spotlight. However, there is much more to Satun than meets the eye, and Lipe is only one of the few wonders that can be discovered in this Southern province. Amongst Satun's many natural wonders, one of the must-visit spots is the internationally renowned Satun UNESCO Global Geopark - the latest UNESCO endorsed geopark - which received recognition as the 36th geopark of the world, the fifth in the Asia-Pacific and the first geopark in Thailand. Aside from this, visitors can also enjoy the Golden Dragon Beach and Prasat Hin Phan Yot, breathtaking forests, and waterfalls where one can enjoy trekking; all in a trip to Satun.
In the past, Satun was once a part of Sai Buri (Kedah State of Malaysia), thus explaining the local's Malaysian heritage and culture, which are also reflected in their cuisine. One of the most famous local dishes of Satun is Khao Mun Kaeng Tor Maeh. The word Tor Maeh in the dish’s name comes from the Malaysian word Tumh, which means to stir-fry with coconut milk or oil. In Thailand, Tor Maeh is served with Khao Mun (cooked rice in oil or coconut milk) or cooked roti dough. The key ingredients of Khao Mun Kaeng Tor Maeh consist of fish, fresh coconut milk, tamarind paste, turmeric, dried chilli, garlic and shallots. It also includes an array of spice seeds including halba (fenugreek) seeds, savi seeds, coriander, fennel, as well as curry leaf known as Ka Po Lae (Samui Thet leaves, as called by the locals). To make Tor Maeh begins with heating oil in the pan then putting in the chopped garlic and shallots before adding all the ground spice seeds and stir-frying until aromatic. Then, pour in the fresh coconut milk and let the herbs cook. Fish is then added followed by tamarind paste and sliced eggplant until all becomes perfectly cooked. The curry leaves and cayenne pepper are added in the final step before serving.
Kaeng Tor Maeh first originated from Ban Kuan, whose villagers descended from the people of Sai Buri. Some of the artefacts discovered here, include a 170-year-old Colonial-style Panya house whose age is as old as Satun province itself. The house is believed to have belonged to the ruler of Setoi City, Chancellor Phraya Phumnart Phakdi. Aside from this historical house, visitors can also opt for more adrenaline-rushing options including rafting at Ban Kuan, or kayaking at the Satun UNESCO Global Geopark. There, one can visit Prasat Hin Phan Yot or the 'Thousand Spires Stone Castle', a natural-occurring limestone structure that gives off an impression of a floating castle in the water. Prasat Hin Phan Yot is one of Satun's prides and an unseen landmark to explore in Amphoe La Ngu, and can be accessed by kayaking for 15 minutes from the shore in Ko Khao Yai under supervision of the Mu Ko Phetra National Park.
Aside from this natural wonder, Amphoe La Ngu is also home to a beautifully named sweet, Khanom Bu-nga Buda. In the Thai language, Bu-nga means flower, while Buda is the name for screwpine flowers or Dok Lam Chiak. Khanom Bu-nga Buda's shape is like a tiny white rectangular pillow with fillings made of fried shredded coconut with cane sugar. Khanom Bu-nga Buda is often prepared for special occasions; such as, specific festivals or to celebrate a wedding ceremony served as a symbol of the couple living happily together forever. To the locals, this snack can be compared to another snack named Kaeson Lam Chiak, though the texture and flavour bear a difference to its Central Region counterpart. Though it may seem like an ordinary wrapped sweet, the delicious, fragrant filling of Khanom Bu-nga Buda is something visitors should taste for themselves at least once during the visit.
Another attraction to delve into at Satun is 'Tham Lae Stegodon', one of Satun Geopark's attractions. This limestone cave is geologically outstanding with a cave and stream that are no less than four kilometres in length. Stegodon is the name of an ancient dinosaur-like elephant, whose fossils were discovered here. Tham Lae Stegodon boasts a cave of glittering shadows of stalactites and stalagmites that will tease one's imagination. Note that the stalactite tubes and plastered limestone can be viewed during summer. In contrast, the stalactite curtain can be seen during the rainy season making it a charming venue that is ever-changing throughout the year.
Another natural place of wonder is Golden Dragon Beach or 'San Laeng Mangkon' each where the famous Thale Waek (Separated Sea) of Ban Tan Yong Po can be seen. This natural phenomenon happens during the low tide, where the dune in the middle of the sea rises to the surface to reveal a long ridge that resembles a dragon's spin. This golden ridge is, in fact, not made of sand, but a 3-kilometre-long ridge formed by millions of shells piled up over time from island to island to give the appearance of a dragon's spine rising from the sea. Visitors may visit this breathtaking venue by boarding a 20-minute long-tail boat ride from Bakan Khoei Pier. Please note that it is advisable to check the tidal currents timetable before your arrival to ensure that you will be able to enjoy this phenomenon.
A trip would not be complete without more of Satun's wonderfully scrumptious snacks. Among the many offerings, Khanom Phuk Rak (Love Bond Sweet) or Sim Poi Sa Yang Ga Sei in Malaysian (Sim Poi means Bond, Sa Yang means Love and Ga Se means thank you) is a perfect thankful gift for any occasion. The wrapping is made of an imported Malaysian spring roll sheet cut into pieces to wrap the delectable filling, while the filling is made from Pla Tu Khaek (Mackerel Scud Fish) though other local sea fish can also be used. The fish are steamed and deboned before stir-frying with chilli paste, ginger, galangal, lemongrass and shallots then salted to taste. The process can take up to six hours to perfect and for the filling to become dry enough to wrap in the spring roll sheet before frying until golden brown. It is indeed a snack that requires care and patience, and a perfect gift for those you love.
For those curious to take a sneak into the fisherman's lifestyle, the Fishermen's Village at Ban Bakan Yai is not to be missed. A 40-minute boat ride from the mainland will take visitors to a small village in the middle of the sea, where the villagers' ancient ways of life remain preserved to this day. During the low tide, 'San Laeng Mangkon', the dune in the middle of the sea will also rise on the surface and become visible during the visit. Another 10-minute long-tail boat ride will take you to 'Sala Muek', where the fishermen farm their squid. A lucky visitor may get to spot a dolphin or two during their visit.
Not far from Sala Muek is Ko Hin Dam and Ko Hin Daeng, also known as Ko Hoi Kap, a strange and magical floating island whose shape and location are continually shifting with the tides and wind. Another spot to explore is Hat Khao Kong Phra Chan Sio (Half-moon Beach) where the white sand comprises millions of white shells that form a tingling sound like tiny bells in the wind when stepped on. As the entire perimeter is covered with white shells, the beach has no trees due to its lack of soil - thus forming a vast, magical white beach that stretches endlessly like a pure, half-moon. Another highlight of Hat Khao Kong Phra Chan Sio is the seafood freshly caught by the fishermen.
Satun is a small province that is rich in cultural and natural heritage, whose beauty requires time and reflection to enjoy. Fresh seafood, magical beaches and the wonders of nature come together in this peaceful province. Those who wish to visit Satun are advised to catch a flight to Hat Yai International Airport, as the provinces are only about an hour’s ride away from each other making this the most convenient way of accessing Satun.
