In this month's edition: More restaurants put the spotlight on intensely-flavoured broths made from scratch with interesting ingredients such as jamon and lager, and fancier versions of local favourites like satay and prawn mee soup.
Tripe Satay at Violet Oon’s Satay & Grill ($15)
She might be 67-years-old, but food doyenne Violet Oon still believes in being present in the restaurants she owns, with the latest opening being Violet Oon Satay & Grill at Clarke Quay. “People are as interested in your food as you are,” says Oon. And the effort shows in labour-intensive dishes such as tripe satay (satay babat). The honey-combed meat is first boiled in a lemongrass and ginger infusion to temper its strong smell, then grilled over a charcoal-fuelled fire. On the side is a creamy coconut sauce spiced with ground candlenuts and galangal (a type of ginger), a 50-year-old recipe handed down from Oon’s aunt. #01-18, 3B River Valley Road, Clarke Quay.
She might be 67-years-old, but food doyenne Violet Oon still believes in being present in the restaurants she owns, with the latest opening being Violet Oon Satay & Grill at Clarke Quay. “People are as interested in your food as you are,” says Oon. And the effort shows in labour-intensive dishes such as tripe satay (satay babat). The honey-combed meat is first boiled in a lemongrass and ginger infusion to temper its strong smell, then grilled over a charcoal-fuelled fire. On the side is a creamy coconut sauce spiced with ground candlenuts and galangal (a type of ginger), a 50-year-old recipe handed down from Oon’s aunt. #01-18, 3B River Valley Road, Clarke Quay.
Gruyere Cheese Souffle at The Disgruntled Brasserie ($16++)
Chef Daniel Sia has left his Disgruntled brand, but taking over is chef de cuisine Desmond Goh. Formerly from Kitchen Language by Far East Organization, the 32-year-old chef might be young, but shows potential. A classic twice-baked cheese soufflé, for instance, checks all the right boxes – the savoury egg-based dish has a beautiful golden-brown crust that gives way to a light fluffy middle, served with caramelised onions and a rich chardonnay fondue. 28 Ann Siang Road.
Chef Daniel Sia has left his Disgruntled brand, but taking over is chef de cuisine Desmond Goh. Formerly from Kitchen Language by Far East Organization, the 32-year-old chef might be young, but shows potential. A classic twice-baked cheese soufflé, for instance, checks all the right boxes – the savoury egg-based dish has a beautiful golden-brown crust that gives way to a light fluffy middle, served with caramelised onions and a rich chardonnay fondue. 28 Ann Siang Road.
Poached Lobster With Chilli Oil at Dstllry par Christophe Lerouy (from an 8-course set menu priced at $120)
Since leaving one-Michelin-starred Alma by Juan Amador last year, Christophe Lerouy has been busy setting up his new space. Dstllry par Christophe Lerouy is an intimate 21-seater where diners sit on counter stools which ring an open kitchen. There’s just one menu where guests choose between six to eight courses that change every month - Lerouy is not a fan of routine – but his culinary prowess means diners can trust in his ability to turn out soul-warming dishes. Take a dish of lobster poached in garlic oil, his rendition of a hearty southern France classic. The tender succulent meat is served with thyme confit and buttery roe in a rempah-like chilli paste, perfect for dipping chunks of sourdough bread into. #01-01, 21 Media Circle.
Since leaving one-Michelin-starred Alma by Juan Amador last year, Christophe Lerouy has been busy setting up his new space. Dstllry par Christophe Lerouy is an intimate 21-seater where diners sit on counter stools which ring an open kitchen. There’s just one menu where guests choose between six to eight courses that change every month - Lerouy is not a fan of routine – but his culinary prowess means diners can trust in his ability to turn out soul-warming dishes. Take a dish of lobster poached in garlic oil, his rendition of a hearty southern France classic. The tender succulent meat is served with thyme confit and buttery roe in a rempah-like chilli paste, perfect for dipping chunks of sourdough bread into. #01-01, 21 Media Circle.
Norwegian Blue Mussels at Firebake - Woodfired Bakehouse & Restaurant ($25)
It’s all about taking things slow at new East side addition Firebake, where dedicated bakers knead and proof to transform wild yeast, flour and water into crusty sourdough loaves that are then served in different ways – croutons sprinkled over a salad, as a delicious crust for a slab of salmon, or simply as is, with a generous pat of butter and olive oil on the side. Stocks are also given due attention here, seeing how the wedges of toasted sourdough are the perfect vessels to soak up umami juices. Meaty Norwegian blue mussels, for instance, come nestled in a luscious broth made from shallots, chorizo, garlic, Kingpin lager and a touch of butter. Save space for the bread and butter pudding, made with a dense fruit loaf topped with a silky crème anglaise. 237 East Coast Road.
It’s all about taking things slow at new East side addition Firebake, where dedicated bakers knead and proof to transform wild yeast, flour and water into crusty sourdough loaves that are then served in different ways – croutons sprinkled over a salad, as a delicious crust for a slab of salmon, or simply as is, with a generous pat of butter and olive oil on the side. Stocks are also given due attention here, seeing how the wedges of toasted sourdough are the perfect vessels to soak up umami juices. Meaty Norwegian blue mussels, for instance, come nestled in a luscious broth made from shallots, chorizo, garlic, Kingpin lager and a touch of butter. Save space for the bread and butter pudding, made with a dense fruit loaf topped with a silky crème anglaise. 237 East Coast Road.
Sliced Wagyu in Chilli Oil at Si Chuan Dou Hua (part of a seven-course omakase priced at $150++)
It seems the Japanese term 'omakase' can apply to just about any type of cuisine as Si Chuan Dou Hua introduces an omakase menu for its Sichuan dishes. From a heat-resistant crystal pot specially carted back by chef Zeng Feng to the use of seasonal native herbs like Haruki leaves, close attention is paid to details here. A particular standout dish from the seven-course menu is sliced Hokkaido wagyu that is swished about in a pot of bubbling Sichuan pepper-infused oil, then served in a pretty glass with a mix of chilli padi, sesame oil parsley and garlic to cut through the heat. PARKROYAL on Beach Road, 7500 Beach Road.
It seems the Japanese term 'omakase' can apply to just about any type of cuisine as Si Chuan Dou Hua introduces an omakase menu for its Sichuan dishes. From a heat-resistant crystal pot specially carted back by chef Zeng Feng to the use of seasonal native herbs like Haruki leaves, close attention is paid to details here. A particular standout dish from the seven-course menu is sliced Hokkaido wagyu that is swished about in a pot of bubbling Sichuan pepper-infused oil, then served in a pretty glass with a mix of chilli padi, sesame oil parsley and garlic to cut through the heat. PARKROYAL on Beach Road, 7500 Beach Road.
Vegetable Garden at Iggy’s (part of a set menu starting at $195++)
Think about making a stock and a bone broth is usually what springs to mind. But over at Iggy’s, head chef Aitor Jeronimo Orive uses meat instead to create an intensely-flavoured base. Drawing from the techniques he picked up during his stint at three-Michelin-starred The Fat Duck, Aitor first minces jamon, which is then infused in a dashi stock and left to sit for hours (no stirring, as he shares that would make the broth cloudy). The consommé is then poured over fresh seasonal vegetables such as daikon, asparagus and garden leaves. Level 3 Hilton Singapore, 581 Orchard Road.
Think about making a stock and a bone broth is usually what springs to mind. But over at Iggy’s, head chef Aitor Jeronimo Orive uses meat instead to create an intensely-flavoured base. Drawing from the techniques he picked up during his stint at three-Michelin-starred The Fat Duck, Aitor first minces jamon, which is then infused in a dashi stock and left to sit for hours (no stirring, as he shares that would make the broth cloudy). The consommé is then poured over fresh seasonal vegetables such as daikon, asparagus and garden leaves. Level 3 Hilton Singapore, 581 Orchard Road.
Marinated Tuna with Sea Urchin and Chestnuts at Hashida Sushi (part of an omakase priced at $400++)
It’s not often uni finds itself playing a supporting role in a dish. But over at Hashida Sushi, one of the courses on the Spring menu uses steamed urchin and marinated lean tuna as a base to showcase the true star of the show – a sprinkle of gritty chestnut pebbles.
It’s not often uni finds itself playing a supporting role in a dish. But over at Hashida Sushi, one of the courses on the Spring menu uses steamed urchin and marinated lean tuna as a base to showcase the true star of the show – a sprinkle of gritty chestnut pebbles.
The nuts are from the Ehime prefecture in Japan, and are sourced by a supplier who nit-picks the restaurants he provides them to. Hashida spent six months – with the help of two chef friends – getting himself on that exclusive list. Our tip is to call in advance to make sure Hashida still has some of these sweet chestnuts before you make your way down, as the restaurant only receives 2kg of the nuts each year. #04-16, Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road.
Wild Sri Lankan Tiger Prawn Noodles at Morsels ($25)
Those of you who love Instagram-friendly spots will love Morsel’s new Dempsey home – a rustic joint with plenty of wood accents and natural light to beautify just about every shot you take. The food is as delicious as the surrounds are photogenic. Take for instance the Wild Sri Lankan Tiger Prawn Noodles – part of a noodle menu that rotates every week. The local classic is given a gourmet spin as the prawn broth is made as a flavoursome spicy prawn bisque, served with ajitsuke tamago (a marinated soft boiled egg Japanese style), and plump Sri Lankan tiger prawns grilled till slightly charred on the outside and sweetly succulent inside. #01-04, 25 Dempsey Road.
Those of you who love Instagram-friendly spots will love Morsel’s new Dempsey home – a rustic joint with plenty of wood accents and natural light to beautify just about every shot you take. The food is as delicious as the surrounds are photogenic. Take for instance the Wild Sri Lankan Tiger Prawn Noodles – part of a noodle menu that rotates every week. The local classic is given a gourmet spin as the prawn broth is made as a flavoursome spicy prawn bisque, served with ajitsuke tamago (a marinated soft boiled egg Japanese style), and plump Sri Lankan tiger prawns grilled till slightly charred on the outside and sweetly succulent inside. #01-04, 25 Dempsey Road.
Snow Crab Chawanmushi at Sushi Kimura (part of an omakase dinner menu starting from $280)
Opened in December, Sushi Kimura is helmed by chef-owner Tomoo Kimura formerly from one-Michelin-starred Sushi Ichi in Singapore. Now with his own restaurant, Kimura adds personal touches to the interior such as a Noren doorway curtain cut from his great-grandmother’s kimono. The same attention to detail is given to the produce he brings in - Kimura uses the same organic premium vinegar as chef Jiro Ono of Sukiyabashi Jiro in Tokyo – which shines through in the dishes here. The snow crab chawanmushi, for instance, is made with pure Hokkaido spring water, and is a smooth silky treat that goes down easily. Also good is his signature rice bowl of creamy uni, ikura and an onsen egg. #01-07 Palais Renaissance.
Opened in December, Sushi Kimura is helmed by chef-owner Tomoo Kimura formerly from one-Michelin-starred Sushi Ichi in Singapore. Now with his own restaurant, Kimura adds personal touches to the interior such as a Noren doorway curtain cut from his great-grandmother’s kimono. The same attention to detail is given to the produce he brings in - Kimura uses the same organic premium vinegar as chef Jiro Ono of Sukiyabashi Jiro in Tokyo – which shines through in the dishes here. The snow crab chawanmushi, for instance, is made with pure Hokkaido spring water, and is a smooth silky treat that goes down easily. Also good is his signature rice bowl of creamy uni, ikura and an onsen egg. #01-07 Palais Renaissance.
Greek Octopus at Alati Divine Greek Cuisine ($39)
Authentic Greek food isn’t the most common of cuisines in Singapore and at Alati, the recipes are so steadfastly traditional that even produce as integral as olive oil and seafood are flown directly from the country to keep the flavours as intact as possible. Of these, the grilled Greek octopus served with vinegared onions, juicy confit tomatoes and bottarga is a particular stand out. It’s a simple dish but a timely reminder that oftentimes it is the star ingredient’s terroir that makes up the biggest flavour and doesn’t need much fiddling to stand out. 73 Amoy Street.
Authentic Greek food isn’t the most common of cuisines in Singapore and at Alati, the recipes are so steadfastly traditional that even produce as integral as olive oil and seafood are flown directly from the country to keep the flavours as intact as possible. Of these, the grilled Greek octopus served with vinegared onions, juicy confit tomatoes and bottarga is a particular stand out. It’s a simple dish but a timely reminder that oftentimes it is the star ingredient’s terroir that makes up the biggest flavour and doesn’t need much fiddling to stand out. 73 Amoy Street.
