Malaysian cuisine is a rich tapestry of influences spanning over hundreds of years of history, traditional practices, and cultural diversity. Malaysian food traditions are built upon a deep sense of connection, evoking fond memories dating back to childhood — be it influences from Nyonya, Malay, Indian, Chinese, or Eurasian cultures, they all work together to create flavours that are distinctly Malaysian.
Traditions in Malaysia often stem from spiritual practices and cultural rituals cultivated around the act of celebration and seasonal festivals — being in a multicultural land, such events are abundant and could take place as often as once a month. It has become common knowledge that when Malaysians get together to celebrate, the festivities are often accompanied by a spread of traditional foods, further reinforcing the fact that food can offer a sense of acceptance, and Malaysians often feel comfort in its familiarity.
No matter the origin or type of cuisine, everyone loves to share good food finds. Here, we spoke to 10 top chefs from Malaysia who are recognised in the MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2024, who shared about their favourite local foods and where to find them.
Darren Teoh
DewakanTwo MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024
For chef-patron Darren Teoh, a restaurant that comes to mind is a childhood spot — a modest restaurant called Peng Heong Hakka Paikut, located in Klang.
“A visit to Peng Heong Hakka Paikut was always a treat. We would ride in the car, pay the many toll charges to go to Klang — it was a real road trip. There used to be an old cinema around that area as well. We would get their spare ribs, pig’s stomach soup, assam fish, and mutton curry,” he reminisces.
Kim Hock Su
Au JardinOne MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2024
One dish that chef-patron Kim Hock Su holds dear and would gladly bring across the borders to share with his siblings in Singapore is the Jalan Dewa Teochew-style koay chiap in Sungai Petani, Kedah.
“I grew up with this dish, and there are only a handful of places here that still prepare the starch in a traditional way, resulting in a springy and chewy texture that’s thicker than the usual nowadays. It's served with pork skin braised in duck stock along with shredded meat,” he shares.
“Guang Ji Ho Fun, also sometimes known simply as San Peng Road Ipoh Hor Fun, was the very first place I experienced kai see hor fun. It is my ultimate comfort food spot. My ritual nowadays is ordering a bowl of hor fun with a poached chicken drumstick for its smooth texture and braised chicken feet,” says Tham.
Aidan Low
AkârSelected Restaurant, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024
Aidan Low, from the newly refurbished and refined Akâr, has been dining at Woo Ng Kee, a classic Chinese family-run restaurant in Kepong. He’s been going there since he was seven years old. This restaurant is over 65-years old and now spans across several shop lots combined — a true testament to its consistency and ability to sustain positive business growth over the decades.
“For me, it’s the consistency — the flavours have been the same, if not, better. They’re known for the Fish Head Curry — the rich flavours are unparalleled. Also, be sure to try their braised pork leg,” he shares.
Takashi Kimura
CilantroSelected Restaurant, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024
For executive chef Takashi Kimura of Cilantro, his local comfort food is chicken claypot rice. There is a place he has been patronising for more than twenty years now: Bib Gourmand spot Heun Kee Claypot Chicken Rice (Pudu).
“What impressed me was the way they were cleaning the bean sprouts, a seemingly common ingredient. I observed them preparing the bean sprouts meticulously, which indicated their dedication to quality. About the same time when I first discovered Heun Kee Claypot Chicken Rice (Pudu), my wife was pregnant with our second child, Himawali. We have been bringing her here ever since then, and she is now 18 years old,” he shares.
Masashi Horiuchi
EntierSelected Restaurant, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024
Bak kut teh is one of Masashi Horiuchi’s favourite local dishes in Malaysia, alongside durian.
“My hometown of Fukuoka, Japan, serves some of the best street foods, and Malaysia's vibrant food scene reminds me of that. To truly experience the local culture and savour a dish that represents Malaysia, you have to try bak kut teh. I would recommend Samy & Ah Her Bak Kut Teh in Klang,” he shares.
Johnson Wong
Gēn and Communal Table by GēnSelected Restaurants, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024
Although based in Penang, Johnson Wong’s favourite local comfort food is found within an unassuming coffee shop in Kuala Lumpur called Satu Penchala Kopitiam.
“There’s a pan mee place that I always return to. Every element is excellent. I especially love the noodles. They’re handmade and hand-pulled by the owners, which you can tell from their unique shape. The broth is also noteworthy, made with a sweet anchovy base and no bitterness,” he says.
Shaun Ng
HideSelected Restaurant, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024
Places from childhood often hold a special place in our hearts, even as we grow up. For Shaun Ng, that place is Hoe Fong Chicken Rice in Seapark.
“Unlike the usual steamed or roasted chicken, their specialty is fried chicken rice. Since primary school, almost every day after school, I would have Hoe Fong’s chicken rice. The business owner’s nephew has taken over the shop now, but the taste has remained the same since day one. I grew up drinking their soup,” he reminisces.
Ramesh Thangaraj
JwalaSelected Restaurant, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2024
Having banana leaf rice at Bib Gourmand restaurant Sri Nirwana Maju holds a special place for executive chef Ramesh Thangaraj of Jwala. “The staff who serve are from Tamil Nadu, and I feel a sense of kinship with them. When we converse, it reminds me of home,” says Thangaraj, who came to Kuala Lumpur from Tamil Nadu in 2018 and has been living here ever since.
“A friend introduced me to Sri Nirwana Maju after a trip to Little India in Brickfields. I visit as often as twice a month. I recommend getting the lamb varuval, vegetable dishes, and their chicken 65 that’s marinated with their own special blend of spices,” he shares.
Yavhin Siriwardhana
NadodiSelected Restaurant, MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2024
During his days off or when he returns home to Klang, head chef of Nadodi, Yavhin Siriwardhana’s go-to place is 158 Restaurant or known as 158 Hong Ba in Pandamaran for hong bak, a Chinese dish of braised pork with aromatic spices.
“I grew up in Klang. While most people associate it with bak kut teh, for me, it’s all about hong bak at 158 Hong Ba. I love that they serve the whole pig’s trotter, which requires a group of friends to share. It's about gathering people to enjoy a good meal together, and then going for cendol afterwards,” he says.
(Photo: Steven C)
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