Johnson Wong — founder of MICHELIN Selected Gēn and Bib Gourmand Communal Table by Gēn, and recipient of the MICHELIN Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2024 Young Chef Award — had never set out to be a chef.
“My journey wasn't the typical tale of growing up immersed in cooking. My first aspiration was to be an architect, but my lack of enthusiasm for mathematics led me to withdraw from architecture school just one month before it started. I then turned to the culinary arts despite not having much passion for it. Over time, I developed a genuine love for cooking and realised that it was a lifelong career I could really commit to," recalls Wong.
Hailing from Johor, which is all the way down south of Peninsular Malaysia, Wong made significant strides in the culinary world, and in 2018, he opened his first restaurant, Gēn, all the other way up north in Penang island. Gēn means "root" in Mandarin and, true to its name, Gēn's menu celebrates the essence of Malaysia's ingredients with its concept taking root in transforming memories, cultures, and experiences into tangible culinary creations that proactively engage with diners.
“In the first two years upon opening, our approach was to reimagine and reconstruct cherished memories and experiences, focusing on delivering familiarity. Seven years later, Gēn has evolved into a produce-driven concept that embraces endless possibilities. Our process now starts with a diverse list of ingredients, followed by extensive research and development to utilise each component to its greatest potential. The result is an ever-evolving, unpredictable journey of constant discovery,” elaborates Wong.
Beyond the Ingredients
It starts, as always, with the ingredient. The produce, procured at the peak of its seasonality, is either foraged or sourced from small-scale suppliers dedicated to biodiversity and sustainability. In recent years, Wong and his team have been actively fostering positive transformation in the realm of local producers that’s more community driven.
“Restaurants must recognise their role as a link in a chain that begins long before the kitchen work begins. When it comes to sustainability, my priority is the thought process behind it, which involves all parties,” says Wong. As the saying goes, it takes a village to raise a child, and similarly, restaurants can't make a significant impact alone.
“We need to collaborate closely with industry leaders, producers, the chef community, and organisations to ensure that the conversations keep going and the communication lines stay open for the sharing of information. Each part plays an active role in promoting sustainability within their communities,” he explains.
Wong, illustrating that positive impact can overflow beyond the food and beverage industry, is also commissioning a Johor-based artist to create tableware and centrepieces from compressed plastic.
(Right Image: Centrepiece made from compressed plastic)
What’s the Story?
At Gēn, each dish on the menu celebrates one single ingredient and is named accordingly, reflecting a deep understanding for each of its characters. When you sit down for a meal, you'll be given an Ingredient Description Card, which lists the key components of the dish. "One of my personal highlights is showcasing our own vegetables, such as petai (stink bean), Cameron Highlands’ greens, buah kulim (jungle garlic), buah keluak (kluwek nut/pangium edule), Harumanis mangoes, cempedak (jackfruit), and so on," Wong beams with pride.
The menu at Gēn makes its purpose clear — one of its star dishes is "Mantis Prawn, Mussel, Buah Kulim (jungle garlic)", which is served with crispy braised lotus root and lotus seeds, all covered with nasturtium leaves, and a hint of lemon gel. The lotus roots are sourced from an artisanal producer in Perak by Au Weng Cheong and Yuki Wong Pei Lin, who practise gardening without pesticides. The dish features a rich sauce made from a blend of braised mussels and chicken stock emulsion, enriched with buah kulim-infused oil for an earthy flavour profile.
In "Kesom, Oyster, Kelulut Honey", plump and fresh Penang oysters cultivated in Balik Pulau, Penang, are featured, along with a cucumber-based sorbet with kesom (Vietnamese coriander) leaf. This dish is layered with homemade oyster sauce, kesom emulsion, and ketumpang air (crab claw herb). The flavours are a reflection of local culture and community with kesom, a common local herb, adding a distinctly regional taste.
A dessert of “Strawberry, Ginger Flower” is composed of three intricate layers, featuring Cameron Highland strawberries with roselle jelly layered over iced strawberry ginger flower and macerated cherry tomatoes. The sauce is derived from strawberry, ginger flower, and curry leaves.
“Diners and restaurants evolve hand-in-hand; it’s a mutual transformation. For a restaurant, adapting is essential. Our current direction has become more defined and aligned with what we believe is the right approach. Once you find the right path and understand where you want to go, planning the next steps and shaping the dining experience becomes much easier. It allows the team to focus and strategise more effectively for the future,” Wong shares.
Looking into the Future
“For me, Penang is rich in heritage and culture, recognised globally as a UNESCO site. It offers a unique local perspective and much cultural depth. Similarly, in terms of sustainability, the question for a chef is: what can you do to improve your city? It goes beyond just cooking, and one restaurant alone can only achieve so much. However, if more people join together, we can make a greater impact in promoting sustainability and advancing our practices,” he exudes.
Wong envisions a future for Gēn that evolves alongside him.
Looking ahead, Wong is excited about the next chapter for Gēn, with plans to move to a new location by the end of the year. He aims to create a fresh, new culinary experience that pushes boundaries and captivates diners anew.
Not bad at all for someone who once considered the culinary path as a secondary resolution.
Gēn is located at Unit 6, 8 Gat Lebuh Gereja, George Town, 10300, Malaysia. Make your booking here.
All images are courtesy of Johnson Wong and Gēn.
