Ever wanted to glimpse into the lives of kings and queens? Well, you need to get yourself to the beautiful landscape of north Wales. Built for King Edward I, the historic castles of Beaumaris, Caernarfon, Conwy and Harlech together form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Despite its size, Wales has the highest number of castles per square mile in the world and, during the medieval period, some think there was a castle to be found every 12 square miles.
This quartet of spectacular coastal castles are awash with blood, sweat and tears, living monumentS to just how determined King Edward I was during his campaign to conquer Wales in the 13th century. In true MICHELIN Guide fashion, we recommend you tour these castles with the help of delicious restaurants and plush hotels. Browse through our suggestions below, choose the options that suit your itinerary and pack your bags.
Conwy Castle
Conwy Castle strikes an imposing figure. The mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) act as a backdrop and, from some angles, it looks as though Conwy Castle is suspended above the Conwy Bridge, lending a magical quality to a scene that is already straight out of a fairytale. The construction of the castle itself took place between 1283 and 1287, making it one of the quickest projects undertaken by King Edward I and his architect Master James of St George.The King was behind the construction of many castles during his tenure, but Conwy stands today as one of the brightest jewels in his crown. It is remarkably well-preserved, with some believing it to have the most complete set of residential rooms inhabited by the medieval monarchy anywhere in England or Wales.
Divided by an inner and outer ward and defended by a high curtain wall, eight large towers and two barbicans, Conwy Castle is a truly impressive fortification against outside forces. It also features a postern gate leading down to the river, allowing supplies to enter from the sea. Despite investing £15,000 and making it a fortress fit for a king, Edward only stayed at Conwy once. In 1294, Welsh rebels laid siege to the castle and he spent Christmas in the cellar with only a barrel of wine for company. Now, the spiral staircase has been restored, allowing you to walk a complete circuit around and even enter the battlements of Conwy Castle.
Things to Do Near Conwy Castle
As remarkable as it may be, the village of Conwy is not just about its castle. You can visit Plas Mawr townhouse on Conwy High Street to see the home of wealthy merchant Robert Wynn, drive to Sychnant Pass and wander around the picturesque lakes, or visit Bodnant Garden to explore a remarkable collection of plants from across the globe.
Where to Dine Near Conwy Castle: The Jackdaw
If you come to Conwy, it would be remiss of you not to visit a restaurant called The Jackdaw. Anyone born within the walls of Conwy is called a jackdaw, a fun fact you may wish to remember if you want to immerse yourself in the local culture. The tasting menu changes every season, packing in plenty of delicious Welsh produce across a range of harmonious combinations. The dining room has a stripped-back style and the enthusiastic service team will add to your enjoyment.
Where to Stay Near Conwy Castle: Bodysgallen Hall
Bodysgallen Hall is just a 15-minute drive from both Conwy Castle and The Jackdaw, making it the perfect place to end the first day of your trip. The hotel is comprised of several buildings that exude a feeling of quaint traditional elegance. Antique paintings, Persian carpets, flowers, frills… it’s all like something from an Agatha Christie mystery. For a truly cultivated experience, this is the place to be.Beaumaris Castle
After years of faithful service to King Edward I, Master James finished his architectural oeuvre with Beaumaris Castle. By this time, he had perfected the symmetrical concentric wall style that was emblematic of the time. Sometimes referred to as the greatest castle never built, Beaumaris Castle sits on the Island of Anglesey, surrounded by a moat that is 18ft wide. King Edward I was eager to take advantage of the ‘beau mareys’ beside the Menai Strait, a river that separates the island of Anglesey from Gwynedd in the northern mainland of Wales.
Construction began in April 1295 but, unfortunately, Beaumaris Castle never reached its crescendo. Building work petered out in the 1320s, leaving the south gate, six great towers and Llanfaes gate incomplete. Beaumaris is recognised for both the scale of Master James’s ambition and the aesthetic appeal of the symmetrical structure. It has no fewer than four concentric rings, a boast befitting the architect's final project.
Aesthetics aside, Beaumaris Castle was built as a stronghold, and it achieved that. Despite being captured by Welsh rebels in 1403 and falling largely into disrepair by the 16th century, it has weathered the storm in the centuries since so that much of it is still visible today.
Things to Do Near Beaumaris Castle
Before you head to your hotel for the night, you can indulge your inner historian even further by jumping forward around 500 years and taking a look at what life was like for 19th-century prisoners with a tour of Beaumaris Gaol and Court. Alternatively, if you’re just craving some refreshing Irish Sea air, head out to the end of Beaumaris Pier.
Where to Dine Near Beaumaris Castle: Sosban & The Old Butchers
Just a 10-minute drive from Beaumaris Castle, Sosban & The Old Butchers is the perfect place for both convenience and quality. It’s located inside an old butcher’s shop, and the intimate setting is adorned with Welsh slate walls and sheepskin-covered chairs. Chef Stephen Stevens runs his One MICHELIN Star restaurant with a calm confidence, serving up intricate dishes that show off the delicious purity of locally sourced, seasonal produce. But you won’t know what’s on the menu before you get there, as Sosban & The Old Butchers encourages diners to ‘forget the menu, savour the experience’.
Where to Stay Near Beaumaris Castle: Château Rhianfa
This stay is a real treat. It may date from several hundred years after the reign of King Edward I, but Château Rhianfa provides all the grandeur you could hope for on a trip to visit the finest castles in Wales. The Lodge rooms and Cottage suites are rustic and inviting, while those in the main house have been designed to replicate the bedrooms of the Victorian era, albeit with modern comforts. You can even enjoy afternoon tea in the Le Dragon Rouge restaurant.Caernarfon Castle
When King Edward I and Queen Eleanor first arrived at Caernarfon in the summer of 1283, Master James had yet to dream up the splendour of Caernarfon Castle. Work soon began but would end up taking an astounding 47 years and £25,000, the equivalent of around £25 million in today’s money. Bitter medieval conflicts slowed the construction and, although it appears complete from an outsider's perspective, the inside of the castle is actually only half-finished.
Regardless, Caernarfon Castle is steeped in architectural details that hint at its historical genesis. When you walk across the expansive greenery inside the castle walls, you can imagine the royals of yesteryear taking a stroll. The walls themselves are reminiscent of those of Constantinople, as well as being a literary nod to the Welsh myth of Macsen Wledig.
The fortress-palace’s location on the River Seiont only adds to the majesty of this rich piece of Welsh history. In its heyday, Caernarfon Castle was the administrative capital of King Edward’s province and faced many sieges, including from Owain Glyndwr during the Glyndwr Rising of 1400-1415.
Things to Do Near Caernarfon Castle
If you thought the castles were old, Dinas Dinlle just a short drive away dates all the way back to the Iron Age. This historic settlement is largely lost now, but you can still glimpse a bit of it – and go for a lovely stroll along the beach while you’re at it! For more ancient history, head to the Segontium Roman fort, which was strategically placed here by the Romans in AD77. Now, only the ruins remain, but the structure is still rich with historical significance.
Where to Dine Near Caernarfon Castle: The Gunroom
When you’re feeling peckish, it takes just eight minutes to drive from Caernarfon Castle to The Gunroom. Located in the intimate Plas Dinas Country House – which was formerly home to Lord Snowdon – the restaurant still bears many marks of its building’s 17th-century origins, including a quaint stone fireplace. Classically based dishes make good use of local Welsh produce, be it cheese or beef.Where to Stay Near Caernarfon Castle
While there are no MICHELIN Guide hotels in Caernarfon, you’ve got two good options for staying overnight. Either you can head back to Château Rhianfa for another night, which after all is only half an hour away; or you can continue your journey on to the next stage of your north Wales tour… Harlech Castle.Harlech Castle
Located a bit further south, Harlech Castle perches above rocks and dunes, patiently waiting for the sea to lap against its walls. This coastal fortress strikes an astounding silhouette, sitting atop a rocky crag and overlooking the water below. At King Edward I’s behest, Master James designed and oversaw the building of Harlech Castle from 1282 to 1289. It was completed in just seven years and now acts as a reminder of the iconic ‘walls within walls’ design popularised in the period.
Most notably, Harlech Castle features ‘a way from the sea’, a path of 108 steep steps that allowed defenders to receive food and water via ship. This was particularly useful during the rebellion of Madog ap Llewelyn. Like many of these castles, Harlech is no stranger to war. It endured the longest siege in British history, which took place during the War of the Roses, and was damaged countless times. Today, the modern addition of a ‘floating’ footbridge gives visitors a rather more leisurely way to access the castle.
Things to Do Near Harlech Castle
A historic coastal town, Harlech makes for a lovely day out even without its castle – which is admittedly the main attraction. Whether you’re visiting the pleasant flat beach for a stroll or sandcastle (depending on the season), pausing refreshment in a café or picking up a souvenir in one of the quaint trinket shops – you’ll find something to keep you entertained.
Where to Dine Near Harlech Castle: Henry Robertson & Ynyshir
They might both be a decent drive from Harlech Castle, but it would be such a shame to miss either of these restaurants while you’re in north Wales. Named after an MP who lived in the 19th century, Henry Robertson combines sustainability and style. Next to the restaurant, there is a hydro-electric plant and an allotment for organic fruit, herbs and vegetables – these things are a window into the environmentally driven approach the restaurant takes, which has seen it awarded a MICHELIN Green Star. As an added bonus, it sits within the One MICHELIN Key Palé Hall Hotel, if you’ve travelled all this way and need to stay overnight.Alternatively, for what is surely the most extraordinary dining experience in Wales, make the trip to Ynyshir. A five-hour, roughly 30-course extravaganza, the menu offered by Chef Gareth Ward and his team doesn’t come cheap, but it’s unlike anything else. It’s all served in a moody, matt black dining room, with a pumping soundtrack adding to the sensory experience. You can even book a ‘backstage pass’, which sets your dining table in the heart of the kitchen and gives you the opportunity to speak to the chefs while they craft the Two MICHELIN Star dishes.
Where to Stay Near Harlech Castle: Penmaenuchaf
Around 40 minutes from Harlech, Penmaenuchaf offers a truly wonderful country escape. Perched above the Mawddach estuary and at the foot of the Cader Idris mountain, each room is imbued with all the cosiness you’d expect of the area, with a fresh modern elegance worked in. What’s more, it’s also home to a gorgeous restaurant where the chefs know how to make good produce the centre of attention. The hotel is also closer to Ynyshir than Harlech Castle itself, making the trip out for dinner more manageable.That brings us to the end of your historical, culinary tour around north Wales. We hope you’ve had a brilliant time exploring this most gorgeous of regions.
Address Book
Beaumaris Castle, Castle St, Beaumaris, LL58 8APCaernarfon Castle, Castle Ditch, Caernarfon, LL55 2AY
Conwy Castle, Rose Hill St, Conwy, LL32 8AY
Harlech Castle, Harlech, LL46 2YH
Hero Image: The majestic Harlech Castle. © NicolasMcComber iStock
