Just over Thomas Telford’s suspension bridge you’ll find this discreet, intimate restaurant, with a grey door to one side and covered windows which add a feeling of exclusivity. Once inside, you’ll discover an appealingly rustic room with Welsh slate walls, where wooden chairs are draped in sheepskins and hand-painted animal tiles point back to its butcher’s shop days.

Owners Stephen and Bethan Stevens are the only staff, so to keep standards high, they wisely limit the number of guests they serve each evening. The well-balanced surprise menu offers boldly flavoured modern dishes with original, personal touches, which demonstrate an innate understanding of cooking techniques and flavour combinations. You’ll find a wealth of ingredients from North Wales and the occasional playful note, and the portion sizes and pacing of the courses are spot on.