Features 2 minutes 15 March 2024

Six Nations: A Michelin Star Restaurant for Every Team

As the final day of the 2024 Six Nations approaches, explore our run-down of Michelin Star restaurants representing each team in the tournament

This Saturday, rugby fans across Europe will be gathering their friends and girding their loins for the final matches of this year’s Six Nations. The post World Cup tournament has thrown up several surprises and, for those still salivating over Nolann Le Garrec’s 40-yard no-look pass or Marcus Smith’s last-gasp drop goal, there will be inevitable feelings of elation and disappointment when the final whistle in Lyons signals the end of this year’s tournament.

Post-match analysis is all part of the joy of following any sport, so here are six Michelin-Starred restaurants that represent the best of each of the Six Nations – ideal spots for those who want to come together for an in-depth discussion of that dubious penalty or questionable substitution.

The sun sets on Twickenham Stadium
The sun sets on Twickenham Stadium

In order of the current table:

IRELAND: Aniar
Galway, birthplace of the great Jerry Flannery, is home to this relaxed, stylish restaurant which follows a ‘back-to-nature’ ethos. The name means ‘From the West’ and appropriately enough the majority of the ingredients come from Galway and the west of Ireland, with the menu updated daily to reflect the overt seasonality of the cooking. There is a welcoming simplicity and purity to the dishes, with only two or three components used in each one and nothing superfluous on the plate. Many courses are served by the chefs themselves, some with accompanying poems.

ENGLAND: Hinds Head
Ollie Chessum would have to duck if he entered this characterful inn which dates from the 1400s. It’s in the village of Bray, home of The Fat Duck, and is known for being the more informal, slightly less fantastical of Heston Blumenthal’s dining options. It is still well worth a visit however, with concise menus that offer time-honoured British dishes presented in a clean, contemporary style, providing punchy flavours and the occasional playful element (this is a Heston restaurant after all). The relaxed vibe and buzzing atmosphere are perfectly suited to a post-match debrief.

SCOTLAND: Cail Bruich
Cail Bruich means ‘to eat well’ and you certainly will at this restaurant run by experienced Head Chef Lorna McNee. Her cooking is founded on quality ingredients, which she uses to great effect in refined, confident dishes that demonstrate the passion and precision of the kitchen. A dose of creativity is tempered by an impressive level of restraint, resulting in dishes that sing, with just a few ingredients combined in perfect harmony. The kitchen table is the ideal spot if you really want to get in on the action. Those who remember the game against Wales can be reassured that the second half of your meal will be as good as the first.

A none-more-Italian bowl of pasta at Luca
A none-more-Italian bowl of pasta at Luca

FRANCE: Pavyllon London
The name Yannick Alléno will be as familiar to everyone in France as Philippe Sella or Serge Blanco, and for his first venture in the UK he chose the Four Seasons Hotel in Mayfair as his home. There’s plenty of natural light and a focus on comfort in the smart, spacious dining room; for those wanting a close-up view of the chefs, a luxurious counter surrounds the large open kitchen. The food is underscored by classic French recipes, but with plenty of modern influences and, as you’d expect from the French, plenty of flair. Ingredients are naturally from the luxury side of the ledger and the set menus are the best way to go.

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ITALY: Luca
It's not, sadly, named after hooker Luca Bigi, but he would no doubt appreciate the expertly rendered Italian food here in Clerkenwell, which skilfully treads the line between tradition and modernity. There are flourishes of originality, yes, but they are done with such control and understanding so as not to appear gimmicky. This is one of those restaurants that just feel right the moment you walk in; it has that special hum and energy that successful, confidently run restaurants boast. The rigatoni with pork sausage ragù and their tiramisu would set anyone up for battle.

WALES: Sosban & The Old Butchers
Welsh slate walls, sheepskin-covered chairs and hand-painted animal tiles point back to this intimate restaurant’s butcher’s shop days. Stephen Stevens uses a wealth of ingredients from North Wales, showcasing the country’s bounty with utmost skill. His well-balanced cooking comes in the form of a surprise menu consisting of one boldly flavoured modern dish after another. In Stephen’s original, personal touches, his innate understanding of cooking techniques and flavour combinations comes to the fore. The portion sizes and pacing are spot on too, and you’ll feel eager anticipation for each dish to arrive. Just don’t ask for a wooden spoon…

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