The longevity of Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s flagship can be attributed to a number of factors—a sumptuous dining room, a discreet atmosphere, and superior French cuisine. Like walking through Business Class on your way to First, you have to pass through the appealingly buzzy Nougatine to get here. Low-slung chairs and large tables mean you need a certain confidence in your conversational delivery if you wish to entertain the whole table.

Dishes showcase everything from attention to detail and impeccably treated seasonal products to thoughtful garnishes and nuanced flavor combinations. Although you'll come across subtle contemporary influences, classic French techniques underpin this menu, which is supplemented by a vegetarian tasting—imagine the likes of butternut squash purée with minced chives and brunoised mushrooms. Pale pink madai sashimi may then follow, enriched with wasabi, yuzu zest and sweet mandarin; while steamed black sea bass is dressed tableside with a mild red curry broth. A splash of finger lime and sprinkle of sesame seed lends brightness and texture to this delicate dish.

Desserts are more elaborate with ingredients that come from the luxury end of the counter.