To taste what may be the continent’s best sushi, experience the quiet, contemplative and very exclusive ceremony of Chef Masa Takayama’s omakase. Everything here carries a certain weight, beginning with the heavy wooden door and carrying through to the bill. The room of course is as unchanging and calming as a river stone, set amid blonde hinoki wood and a gargantuan forsythia tree. Yes, you’ll forget it’s on the fourth floor of a mall.
Attention to detail is unsurpassed and at times it may seem like a bit much, but a reverential spirit is part of your meal here. Service displays the same smooth grace, with servers at-the-ready carrying their hot towels, fingerbowls, tea and bits of insight.
Awaken the palate with a sweet chunk of hairy crab meat dressed in citrusy yuzu beneath creamy tomalley. This may be followed by the chef’s signature glass coupe of minced toro and a very fine—and very generous—pile of Osetra caviar. Maine uni is downright wondrous, served in its shell with caramelized custard and paper-thin, melting sheets of white truffle. The chef’s selection of sushi is unrivaled; the rice is firm and temperate, garnishes are subtle, and quality of fish is supreme.