Upon his return from Hong Kong in 2017 to open Ănăn Saigon, veteran chef Peter Cuong Franklin observed that the dining scene in Ho Chi Minh City has undergone a dramatic transformation. This dynamic city, the economic and culinary capital of Vietnam, is now emerging as one of the world's premier food destinations. Here, one can find anything and everything at any hour—from remarkable street food and bustling snail restaurants to raucous barbecue beer joints and international flavours, including traditional French, Malaysian, Latin American, Japanese, and world-class, single-origin chocolates.
(© Mervin Lee/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam)
According to Franklin, Vietnamese gastronomy is being showcased more prominently on the global stage following the arrival of the first MICHELIN Guide. Not only the food but the craft cocktail scene, too, is thriving, with a new generation of young, talented bartenders opening numerous bars, making it one of the most vibrant in Asia. "Young Saigoneses are transitioning from traditional daytime coffee shops and juice bars to cocktail bars at night," notes the 61-year-old culinary pioneer. "For those looking to experience the new Vietnam, Saigon is the place to be."
The seasoned MICHELIN Star restaurant chef takes you on a journey through his Ho Chi Minh City, a city that pulses with life day and night. Experience a day in this bustling metropolis, from unforgettable bites to fine cocktail bars, after-hours meals, to snail shops.
RELEVANT: A Guide to Vietnamese Coffee
For a morning cuppa joe: E-Paso Coffee (94E Pasteur Street)
"My current go-to place for the first cup of coffee in the morning is E-Paso Coffee on 94E Pasteur Street. Unlike most coffee shops in Saigon, this is a small and intimate Hanoi-style shop that sells only coffee, with simple wooden tables, no music, and just delicious coffee at a reasonable price. I normally order the hot black coffee with a good ratio of 70% Arabica to 30% robusta beans—strong, fragrant, but not too sour or bitter."Introduced by the French in the mid-19th century, coffee has become a cornerstone of Vietnamese culinary heritage, enduring the country's historical changes. Today, "going for coffee" in Vietnam means more than just having a cup—it's about the companionship of meeting friends or immersing oneself in work. At E-Paso Coffee (94E Pasteur Street), like many cafés in Vietnam, sipping a cup of joe while perched on a tiny stool by the roadside and watching the world go by is an experience not to be missed.
94E Pasteur, Ben Nghe, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
(© E-Paso Coffee)
For a true Saigon experience: Com Tam
“Com tam is a popular Vietnamese street food dish made from fractured rice grains. Rice is so important for the Vietnamese that there are specific words for different forms and varieties of rice. For example, raw rice is called ‘gao’, whereas cooked rice is called ‘com’. The word “com” is synonymous with ‘eating’ in Vietnamese culture. When greeting a close friend or family member the Vietnamese often say: “an com chua” which means ‘Have you eaten?’ Com tam originated from the Mekong Delta, the rice and agricultural basket of Southern Vietnam. ‘Tam’ refers to the broken rice grains. Broken rice fragments result from the rice handling process. These imperfect broken fragments were not saleable. Rather than throwing the broken rice out, the struggling farmers used it to make meals at home. Com tam has evolved into a classic Saigon dish that must be experienced when visiting the city.”Intrigued by this Saigonese rice dish? Since the 1990s, Cơm Tấm Ba Ghiền, a Bib Gourmand establishment located on the corner of Dang Van Ngu Street, has been dishing out what many locals regard as the finest com tam (broken rice dish) in the area. Their signature offering features steamed broken rice topped with pork chop marinated in a secret sauce, expertly grilled over charcoal, and served with pickled radish and a tangy fish sauce. They also offer a chicken variation.
84 Dang Van Ngu Street, Ward 10, Phu Nhuan District, Ho Chi Minh City.
(© Mervin Lee/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam)
For a sip or more: BOO SG Cocktail Bar
“I often go to BOO SG Cocktail Bar for a good drink after work. It’s a hidden upstairs bar not far from our restaurant that offers both classic and artisanal cocktails with a twist. The Vinh the head bartender and owner is usually there if you want something special.”BOO SG, founded by the award-winning founder and head bartender The Vinh, offers a fusion of classic cocktails with the vibrant essence of Ho Chi Minh City. Situated in a 150-year-old market, BOO SG lights up the evening, welcoming all to 119 Ton That Dam. Step into this minimalist sanctuary, where bartenders skillfully craft exquisite cocktails using Vietnam's finest ingredients, ensuring a truly unique experience with each sip."
119 Ton That Dam, Ben Nghe, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
(© BOO SG Cocktail Bar)
For a night you won't forget: Ốc Đào
“When Chef Shunsuke Shimomura of Resonance in Bangkok asked me where to go after a long day of prep work for our recent collaboration dinner, I took him to an outdoor restaurant on Snail Street in District 4, a branch of Ốc Đào in District 1. I think snail restaurants, or quan oc, are one of the must-do Saigon dining and drinking experiences. They offer seafood gathered from Vietnam’s abundant coastlines, which can be ordered raw, grilled, steamed, and stir-fried. These places provide good times with a lot of eating and drinking with friends in the Vietnamese nhau [Vietnamese term for ‘drinking with friends’] tradition. There are many street vendors selling other dishes, which add to the fun and make for a memorable experience. I got Shun to try the bap xao sautéed corn and hot vit lon fermented duck egg for the first time. He says it was probably for the last time. He likely won’t forget that experience!”Ốc Đào (District 1), a MICHELIN-selected joint, is renowned for its bivalves and sea snails, local delicacies akin to French escargot, enjoyed as light snacks in Vietnam. Cooked with traditional Vietnamese condiments, they offer balanced umami flavours. The bustling vibe is perfect for casual gatherings. Enjoy experiencing their sauce dripping down your elbows while picking the small critters out of their shells, making it a truly finger-licking good experience.
212B/D48 Nguyen Trai Street, Nguyen Cu Trinh Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
(© Michelin)
For a place to hide: Things Livingroom
“I would usually fly to Dalat if I need to hide and get away from the hectic place like Saigon. But Things Livingroom, hidden deep inside an old dilapidated building on No.14 Ton That Dam is also a good place to hide. It’s quiet with cool music, a bohemian feel that makes me feel like I am in ones of the artsy coffee shops in Dalat.”In a culture where coffee holds paramount importance, Things Livingroom offers more than a cup of brew. Patrons are encouraged to bring drafts of their creative works—poems, essays, stories, scripts—welcoming all genres. It's a space where mutual reading, discussion, and appreciation for the written word converge, creating a stimulating and inviting atmosphere.
14 Ton That Dam, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
RELATED: 2 Days in Ho Chi Minh City
(© Things Livingroom)
For people-watching: Go2 Wine Bar Saigon
"Go2 Wine Bar Saigon is located in the popular nightspot in the Pham Ngu Lao area and offers a wide selection of local beers, a vibrant atmosphere, and is great for people-watching. It can get pretty loud and crazy on the weekend when the area is turned into a walking street and big, raucous crowds of locals and backpackers descend into the area. The food program at Go2 is managed by Chef Sakal Pheoung, whose restaurant’s Sunday Brunch is one of the best in town, so there is a good selection of wine by the glass and better quality casual food than what you can find in this area."In the vibrant Pham Ngu Lao area, O2 Wine Bar Eatery stands out as a beloved nightspot. With a rich history spanning over a decade, the establishment proudly reigns as the prime destination in the Bui Vien district for drinking as well as partying. Drawing in both locals and international passersby, it provides the perfect spot to find a seat, grab a cold beer, and watch the world go by.
187 D. De Tham, Ward Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
(© Go2 Wine Bar Saigon)
For mingling and meeting people: Pham Viet Chanh
“I enjoy exploring Pham Viet Chanh in Binh Thanh, or the new 'Little Japan Town' for its abundance of Japanese restaurants, ramen joints, and sake bars. It's one of my favourite neighbourhoods in Saigon, offering a great opportunity to meet new people. Despite its proximity to District 1, the city centre, you feel like you're in another world. Birdy, a tiny hole-in-the-wall cocktail bar, is a great place to start the evening with a few drinks and mingle.”Pham Viet Chanh is known for its vibrant atmosphere, it boasts a diverse range of shops, restaurants, and cafes. The area is popular among Japanese expatriates and visitors. Here, you can find numerous Japanese restaurants, ramen joints, and sake bars, offering an authentic taste of Japan in the heart of Saigon. The street is also favoured among locals and tourists for its lively ambiance, making it an excellent place to explore and experience the cultural diversity of the city.
Pham Viet Chanh Street, Ward 19, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City.
(© Pruepat Songtieng/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam)
For a late-night grub: Phở Hoà Pasteur and Phở Lệ (District 5)
“Classic pho shops such as Phở Lệ and Phở Hoà Pasteu are perennial favourites for a big bowl of everything in Saigon-style pho. Pho can be a very personal thing and everyone has their preferences and a specific pho shop where they go regularly. My current favourite is a small shop that opens only for a few hours in the morning. It serves Hanoi-style pho, where the beef is sautéed with garlic and then poured on top of the pho bowl, garnished with a massive amount of spring onion. It’s not your usual bowl of pho, but it’s flavourful and damn satisfying. Most people go for the beef and often overlook the pho ga (chicken pho), which is also delicious and comforting. My go-to chicken pho joint is within walking distance from Ănăn restaurant, and it’s open late until 4 am, so it’s a great place for delicious late-night cravings."Phở Hoà Pasteur and Phở Lệ are both stalwarts of Vietnam’s pho scene. Phở Hoà Pasteur, serving since 1968, offers affordable pho with a balanced broth and quality toppings like beef brisket, flank, tendon, tripe, and meatballs, with small Vietnamese side dishes. Phở Lệ, a leading restaurant, has made the national noodle soup dish the same way for over 70 years, offering authentic southern Vietnamese-style pho with a rich, robust broth. Despite its age, the stall is neat and clean, always packed with locals, according to the MICHELIN Inspectors.
260C Pasteur Street, Ward 8, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City.
413-415 Nguyen Trai Street, Ward 7, District 5, Ho Chi Minh City.
(© Michelin)
READ FURTHER: Refugee Turned Banker Turned Chef: Peter Cuong Franklin on the Story Behind Ho Chi Minh City’s First (and Only) MICHELIN Star
Illustration image: © Mervin Lee/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam
