A wooden board propping up pale twigs interlaced with choy sum ‘nori’ arrives, accompanied by a flavorsome aioli made of fermented fish sauce—just one of the three amuse bouche dishes served to diners before the start of an elaborate 10 course meal.
This all happens at Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia—a country that’s otherwise known more for its street food and agricultural exports than groundbreaking ideas in food and drink.
This all happens at Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia—a country that’s otherwise known more for its street food and agricultural exports than groundbreaking ideas in food and drink.
That seems set to change, and Dewakan’s amuse bouche is easily an ethos in a nutshell where modernist savoir faire meets traditional ingredients. The choy sum has been pureed and dehydrated, and the dip is made from budu sauce—a Northern Malaysian fermented fish sauce declared as a heritage food by the Malaysian Department of National Heritage.
Long overshadowed by the bustling street food Mecca that is Bangkok in the north and glitzy financial center of Singapore to the south, Kuala Lumpur—or simply KL to the locals—seems to have come to its own with a new energy unleashed by innovative chefs, trendy cocktail bars and hip cafés.
Long overshadowed by the bustling street food Mecca that is Bangkok in the north and glitzy financial center of Singapore to the south, Kuala Lumpur—or simply KL to the locals—seems to have come to its own with a new energy unleashed by innovative chefs, trendy cocktail bars and hip cafés.
Eggplant braised in a mushroom stock, jackfruit seeds, black bean sauce and garlic emulsion from Dewakan.
That the country has such a sturdy agricultural spine and vibrant local food scene also means that its tastemakers have developed their own approach, bolstered by access to fresh local produce grown on terrain that spans the South China Sea to the soaring heights of Mount Kinabalu.
These have been interpreted into a myriad of ways. Think along the lines of cocktails made from fresh Southeast Asian herbs to bean to cup coffee hot spots – even humble locally grown vegetables elevated into the realms of modernist fine dining.
Where to Eat
These have been interpreted into a myriad of ways. Think along the lines of cocktails made from fresh Southeast Asian herbs to bean to cup coffee hot spots – even humble locally grown vegetables elevated into the realms of modernist fine dining.
Where to Eat
Modern Malaysian restaurant Dewakan has been at the vanguard of Kuala Lumpur’s fine dining since it exploded onto the scene two years ago. This is where Malaysia’s great culinary traditions go to shed their skins and take on a deconstructed persona in the hands of chef Darren Teoh.
For instance, take one of the restaurant’s dishes when it debuted: pisang goreng ice cream—made by blending traditional deep-fried banana fritters into the dessert served with smoked chocolate Chantilly cream and nutmeg syrup.
For instance, take one of the restaurant’s dishes when it debuted: pisang goreng ice cream—made by blending traditional deep-fried banana fritters into the dessert served with smoked chocolate Chantilly cream and nutmeg syrup.
Chef Jeff Ramsey from Babe.
For those looking for a MICHELIN Guide recommendation, try Taka by Sushi Saito, the Kuala Lumpur-offshoot of three-MICHELIN-starred Saito in Tokyo. Here, there are only 16 seats hugging a counter made of 300-year-old Hinoki wood and produce is flown three times a week straight from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market.
While these two restaurants are certainly stellar, don’t miss more casual offerings like Babe, presided by executive chef Jeff Ramsey in a concept he dubs ‘fun dining.’ The Japanese American chef was previously based in Tokyo where he led Tapas Molecular Bar to its first MICHELIN star. Today, his Kuala Lumpur restaurant boasts Japanese-influenced tapas with a contemporary twist. Pulled chicken tossed in a Japanese curry and sandwiched between two meringues make up the curry buns; diners have the option of grilling their own wagyu beef and Alaskan king crab.
Les Amis Kuala Lumpur, the offshoot of one of Singapore’s first standalone fine dining restaurants awarded two MICHELIN stars in the country’s red guide debut, is said to open later this year.
While these two restaurants are certainly stellar, don’t miss more casual offerings like Babe, presided by executive chef Jeff Ramsey in a concept he dubs ‘fun dining.’ The Japanese American chef was previously based in Tokyo where he led Tapas Molecular Bar to its first MICHELIN star. Today, his Kuala Lumpur restaurant boasts Japanese-influenced tapas with a contemporary twist. Pulled chicken tossed in a Japanese curry and sandwiched between two meringues make up the curry buns; diners have the option of grilling their own wagyu beef and Alaskan king crab.
Les Amis Kuala Lumpur, the offshoot of one of Singapore’s first standalone fine dining restaurants awarded two MICHELIN stars in the country’s red guide debut, is said to open later this year.
The bartenders at PS150.
Where to Drink
Cutting edge restaurants are but one half of the dining scene—the other half being spaces where drinks, spirits and wines are taken to the next level. And Kuala Lumpur does not disappoint—there’s a thriving cocktail bar scene complete with cult mixologists at the helm and locally-made spirits that would set your taste buds alight.
Start with PS150, a sexy cocktail bar housed in a former brothel with an emphasis on Southeast Asian flavors. Fuel up with the Lychee No. 3 where London dry gin is a base for lychee, lime and ginger flowers to shine.
And the boozy offerings don’t end there. Malaysia is also home to a cottage industry that produces tuak—a Bornean sweet rice wine made by fermenting rice with yeast and sugars. While its roots are in the tribal communities of East Malaysia, several firms like Copial Tuak have been producing and marketing them at the corporate level. If you wish for just a taste though, head to the newly-opened Abacus Bar where it’s concocted in their signature tipple, the aptly-named Abacus, along with pandan and Cointreau. Or, pop over to Manja where chile-infused tuak is tamed with egg white, lime and elderflower syrup for the Spirit of Borneo.
Cutting edge restaurants are but one half of the dining scene—the other half being spaces where drinks, spirits and wines are taken to the next level. And Kuala Lumpur does not disappoint—there’s a thriving cocktail bar scene complete with cult mixologists at the helm and locally-made spirits that would set your taste buds alight.
Start with PS150, a sexy cocktail bar housed in a former brothel with an emphasis on Southeast Asian flavors. Fuel up with the Lychee No. 3 where London dry gin is a base for lychee, lime and ginger flowers to shine.
And the boozy offerings don’t end there. Malaysia is also home to a cottage industry that produces tuak—a Bornean sweet rice wine made by fermenting rice with yeast and sugars. While its roots are in the tribal communities of East Malaysia, several firms like Copial Tuak have been producing and marketing them at the corporate level. If you wish for just a taste though, head to the newly-opened Abacus Bar where it’s concocted in their signature tipple, the aptly-named Abacus, along with pandan and Cointreau. Or, pop over to Manja where chile-infused tuak is tamed with egg white, lime and elderflower syrup for the Spirit of Borneo.
Roast & Grind roasts their own arabica beans.
Where to Refuel
Like many cities, the third wave coffee movement of independent cafés which take great care in the origins of their beans has taken a strong hold in Kuala Lumpur—this urban jungle is teeming with these meditative spaces.
But if you’re new to Southeast Asia’s coffee traditions, know that it’s split in half. On one end, there’s ‘kopi’—the traditional form of coffee brewed with robusta beans often roasted with margarine. On the other, there are the Western-style imports like lattes and flat whites which utilize Arabica beans and espresso machines pulled by expert baristas.
At Roast & Grind, the two worlds embrace as young owners Faizal Rashid and Shahrizal Zoal don’t believe in such segregation. Here, both types of coffee are served side by side in an unmistakable statement of equality.
Shahrizal is, in fact, a third generation coffee roaster behind household brand name Hang Tuah Coffee, known for its robust ground coffee powders. “We use Robusta beans only for our blue label kopi O to get a [more] bitter taste whereas for our green label kopi O, we use a mix of Liberica and Robusta to produce a balanced flavor. For espresso, we only use Arabica,” says Shahrizal in an interview with The Malay Mail.
And therein lies one last gem that Malaysia has in store: the country is one of the few that grows Liberica coffee beans, the third and mostly forgotten coffee bean as the rest of the world guzzles on robusta and Arabica. In fact, only one percent of the entire world’s coffee trade consists of this varietal.
It may not be as popular as its two bigger siblings, but it’s one way to down a country’s terroir and coffee culture in one sitting.
This article originally appeared on the MICHELIN Guide Singapore website.
Like many cities, the third wave coffee movement of independent cafés which take great care in the origins of their beans has taken a strong hold in Kuala Lumpur—this urban jungle is teeming with these meditative spaces.
But if you’re new to Southeast Asia’s coffee traditions, know that it’s split in half. On one end, there’s ‘kopi’—the traditional form of coffee brewed with robusta beans often roasted with margarine. On the other, there are the Western-style imports like lattes and flat whites which utilize Arabica beans and espresso machines pulled by expert baristas.
At Roast & Grind, the two worlds embrace as young owners Faizal Rashid and Shahrizal Zoal don’t believe in such segregation. Here, both types of coffee are served side by side in an unmistakable statement of equality.
Shahrizal is, in fact, a third generation coffee roaster behind household brand name Hang Tuah Coffee, known for its robust ground coffee powders. “We use Robusta beans only for our blue label kopi O to get a [more] bitter taste whereas for our green label kopi O, we use a mix of Liberica and Robusta to produce a balanced flavor. For espresso, we only use Arabica,” says Shahrizal in an interview with The Malay Mail.
And therein lies one last gem that Malaysia has in store: the country is one of the few that grows Liberica coffee beans, the third and mostly forgotten coffee bean as the rest of the world guzzles on robusta and Arabica. In fact, only one percent of the entire world’s coffee trade consists of this varietal.
It may not be as popular as its two bigger siblings, but it’s one way to down a country’s terroir and coffee culture in one sitting.
This article originally appeared on the MICHELIN Guide Singapore website.
