The amiable 40-year-old from Lower Saxony is not merely a familiar name in gourmet circles – he is a star, and has been for quite some time. Until the summer of 2021, he was head chef at Atelier, the fine dining restaurant of the Bayerischer Hof hotel in Munich, which was distinguished with the utmost accolade of three MICHELIN stars under his stewardship from 2017 onwards. Now he is building on his previous top-class performance with his own restaurant. "Jan Hartwig has an enviable gift," was the word in the Michelin offices after the first visit to his restaurant. A gift may be what it takes to cook consistently at this level – but there is also more to it than that. Jan Hartwig also brings to the table excellent craftsmanship and formidable experience: His curriculum vitae reads like the brochure of a gourmet summit. He has worked with some of the best chefs in Germany Christian Jürgens, Klaus Erfort and Sven Elverfeld.
“Gift it takes - but not alone”
But how does it work? To go from no MICHELIN stars to three?
The online editorial team has worked its way through JAN’s still-new file, wanting to know more. Yes, it really is a question of "working through" the file. A grand total of seven reports are available, each a meticulously written account of the experiences at the restaurant of both German and foreign MICHELIN Guide Inspectors as well as the German MICHELIN Guide Director. When it comes to a decision of this significance and momentousness, particularly experienced MICHELIN Guide Inspectors are called in. Their job is to dine in two-star and three-star restaurants around the globe on a regular basis in order to ensure international comparability at this level. As such, they are familiar with the best restaurants of the world, have an incomparable overview and have, of course, been to JAN.
One Inspector tries to put his emotions into words with the verdict: "That was a sensational meal. Great art is celebrated here. A moment of bliss." Another writes that "the quality of the ingredients and the craftsmanship are beyond reproach". "This was an absolutely outstanding meal. The complexity of the preparations is extraordinary; Jan Hartwig does not necessarily combine the obvious, which makes for phenomenal fun on the plate," reads another.
What exactly is it that is so much fun? Everything.
Dishes that are showered with praise include the rock red mullet, fermented garlic, couscous, yoghurt and plankton, or glazed sweetbreads – smoked fish broth, saffron, parsley root, sunflower seeds and celery, or charcoal-grilled suckling pig, Jerusalem artichoke and Périgord truffle. Adjectives such as fantastic, impressive, first-rate, excellent, perfect and remarkable come thick and fast in the detailed reports.
“You simply can't do better”
The dessert description of Schell Organic Honduras 75% chocolate, caramel, peanuts, banana and passion fruit ends with the statement: "You simply can't do better". The Bienenstich – rhubarb, vanilla, almonds and champagne – is praised as "simply a beautiful and excellent dessert with absolutely nothing to improve on".
To sum up: Jan Hartwig picks up where he left off in the summer of 2021. We ask Ralf Flinkenflügel, director of the MICHELIN Guide Germany and Switzerland, if he can reveal anything from the MICHELIN Star Conference about this outstanding rating. "We had sufficient time to have several meals in Jan Hartwig's new restaurant. Our results were more than conclusive and our decision was therefore crystal clear."
As for the atmosphere?
It is appealingly laid back. Then there is the upscale modern interior and the relaxed yet highly professional and committed service team.
Making a reservation?
JAN is open Tuesday evening to Friday evening. The large set menu is available for lunch and dinner. At lunchtime there is also a reduced version of the menu. Be sure to book!
Accomodation?
If you would like to dine at JAN and still need a place to stay in the vicinity, we recommend these two hotels, which are just a 10-minute walk from JAN: the 25hours Hotel The Royal Bavarian and the Sofitel Munich Bayerpost. Are you considering travelling here sustainably, by train? Both hotels are close to the main train station (Hauptbahnhof).
For all 3 MICHELIN Star-restaurants, please click here
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Illustration Image: Bienenstich – rhubarb, vanilla, almonds and champagne © Pieter D'Hoop/JAN
