The most refined culinary traditions in a region are usually found in the old-established cities, especially those that served as capitals for centuries. From Rome to Kyoto, Paris to Baghdad, this is true for many cities around the world, and İstanbul is undoubtedly one of the best examples. Home to both a rich seafood cuisine and a wide variety of meat and vegetable dishes, İstanbul still offers the finest examples of Byzantine and Ottoman palace cuisine. Naturally, desserts hold a special place in this tradition, as a characteristic of palace kitchens and were once a symbol of luxury.
Seafood
Renowned for its rich plant and marine life, the Bosphorus Strait is one of the most unique places in the world -and also an excellent spot for seafood lovers. From autumn onwards, Istanbul’s most iconic fish dishes—bluefish as the ‘queen’ of the Bosphorus, bonito, anchovy, turbot, and anglerfish—appear on menus. Some of these fish are best suited for grilling, while others require special cooking methods: turbot is best pan-fried, bonito should be cooked in the oven, anglerfish is pan-roasted, anchovies are deep-fried, and sardines are often wrapped in grape leaves… The seafood selection of İstanbul is so vast that the options don't end there: Lakerda, made from large bonito, is considered one of the city's oldest and most iconic dishes. Other specialties such as tarama (fish roe dip), abudaraho (waxed fish roe, similar to bottarga), shrimp in hot casseroles, cold-cut or grilled octopus, and stuffed mussels reflect İstanbul's deep connection with the sea. If you're eating in this city, seafood must be on the table!
Appetizers and Olive Oil Dishes:
While lakerda and tarama are classic seafood starters in İstanbul, but it’s just the beginning, because in both traditional meyhane culture and homes, appetizers and olive oil dishes are essential. They bring variety, color, and flavor to the table. Grilled eggplant with yogurt or tomato sauce, brain salad, borlotti beans with a hint of cinnamon, zucchini fritters called mücver, olive oil-based green beans, celery with orange and quince, mashed fava beans (also known as broad beans) or topik (an Istanbulite-Armenian dish made with chickpeas, onion, cinnamon, and tahini) highlight the rich variety of İstanbul’s cuisine. Many ingredients in this city’s cuisine such as vegetables, seafood, offal, and legumes are prepared using various methods, including frying, boiling, roasting, or cooking with olive oil. In the hands of people from diverse ethnic backgrounds who have lived in İstanbul for centuries including mainly Turks, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews, these ingredients are transformed into a wide range of unique dishes. A single beloved ingredient, such as eggplant, can be used to make up to fifteen different kinds of appetizers! This is also why İstanbul cuisine is a hidden paradise for vegans and vegetarians: With its diverse range of ingredients and styles, there's something for everyone to enjoy.
Meats:
The first meat type that comes to mind when thinking of İstanbul is, of course, lamb. Looking back at the city's culinary history, we see that lamb is traditionally served at weddings, spring celebrations such as Easter and Hıdrellez, and on every special occasion. Dishes such as roasted lamb, lamb tandoori, and lamb stew with lettuce are all traditional favorites. Even today, Istanbulites can recognize a good lamb dish when they see it! And the all-time favorite one? It is definitely lamb tandoori, which is cooked very slowly with low heat for an extended period. This method makes the meat so tender that it easily separates from the bone when shaken. Salads and olive oil-based dishes often accompany meals with lamb, but the essential side is always pilaf. Rice pilaf is a staple in many cuisines, typically serving as a complement to meat dishes. Commonly, it is served with İstanbul-style pilaf, which includes currants, pine nuts, cinnamon, and allspice. Alternatively, plain butter or şehriye (similar to vermicelli) can be used to enhance the flavor of the rice.
If you're dining out in spring, we also recommend trying classic İstanbul dishes like roasted goat, a true gem of the city’s old cuisine. Beef, on the other hand, is widely available throughout the year.
Desserts:
İstanbul has such a diverse dessert map that it might be best to start by categorizing them! In traditional cuisine, we observe three primary categories of desserts: milk-based, fruit-based, and pastry-based. Among the milk-based varieties, muhallebi (milk pudding) stands out as a true classic. Considering that it has many variations, such as sakızlı muhallebi (with mastic gum), tavukgöğsü (blancmange with shredded chicken breast), kazandibi (with a caramelized bottom), or keşkül (with almonds), it’s no wonder that İstanbul has special muhallebi shops! For fruit-based desserts, kaymaklı ayva tatlısı (baked quince with clotted cream) is a standout, especially in autumn and winter. But İstanbul offers a wide range of fruit desserts, from fig dessert to elmasiye (fruit-juice based jelly). When it comes to pastry-based desserts, the most famous one is -undoubtedly- baklava. Because of the complexity of its technic, baklava was regarded as one of the most exquisite desserts in the Ottoman palace kitchen and was considered a special treat. It was so highly valued that it was served at grand feasts, and every year during Ramadan, the court organized a special ‘baklava parade’ for the janissaries. The best versions of this dessert are still produced today by bakeries that specialize in baklava. Exploring different shapes and flavors of baklava to find your favorite is joy in itself! Additionally, a good semolina halva is always an irresistible treat.
Here are a few suggestions from The MICHELIN Guide, where you can try some of these specialties:
Fish: Try turbot at Balıkçı Kahraman, bluefish at Kıyı, or sardines wrapped in grape leaves at Giritli. For both classic and modern takes on seafood, Karaköy Balıkçısı and Aqua are excellent choices.
Appetizers and Olive Oil Dishes: Try tarama and lakerda at Eleos Yeşilköy and at Rumelihisarı İskele; topik and abudaraho at Foxy; and seasonal olive oil dishes, such as green beans, celery, and artichokes, at Pandeli and Borsa. Since these dishes are made with seasonal ingredients, you’ll discover new flavors throughout the year.
Lamb: At Lokanta by Divan, Seraf, Pandeli, Beyti, and Mikla, you can try a variety of lamb dishes, including lamb tandoori, lamb kebab, and lamb shank stew. Seraf and Pandeli also offer pilaf varieties that pair perfectly with lamb.
Dessert: At Pandeli and Seraf, you can enjoy a variety of seasonal desserts, including quince with clotted cream, fig pudding, cherry tirit, kadayıf, rice pudding, and semolina halva. For a wide variety of baklava, head directly to Karaköy Güllüoğlu.
Hero Image: Seraf Vadi, Main Dish // © Seraf Vadi
